Need some help with my s60r

oscars60r · Post by **oscars60r** » 05 Feb 2016, 13:54

Is there anyone in the Scranton/Wilkes barre pa area That would be able to help with my s60r .
It has shift flares between 2-3 and 3-4. It is less noticeable in sport mode and after driving it for about 45 minutes it all but goes away. I have rebuilt the valve body with a trans-go kit installed all new gasket and 3 rostra solenoids.
I took to local dealer to have software updated and adaptation done . I'm very suspicious of dealer it seamed to me that they wanted to sell me a transmission. The service people wouldn't even let me talk to the tech about all I had done and if there was any thing else we could try.
I really love the car and want to keep it but driving it everyday is completely frustrating.

Post by **JRL** » 05 Feb 2016, 15:53

Year?
Mileage?
Service history?
No one can answer you without pertinent information

Post by **oragex** » 05 Feb 2016, 18:49

When the new solenoids were installed, were they adjusted?

Post by **JRL** » 05 Feb 2016, 20:00

Sounds like you did everything. If the V/B cleaning and rebuild was done properly it sounds as if you may indeed need a tranny
Did you also replace the (cheap) B4 servo? If not do that too

Post by **precopster** » 06 Feb 2016, 04:41

Those Rostra solenoids should only have been installed by using line pressure guages and use of access holes drilled in the valve body cover for adjustment. Even the best solenoids have been found to be out of calibration.

Interesting that the problem disappears after 45 minutes; usually it's the other way around.

oscars60r · Post by **oscars60r** » 06 Feb 2016, 12:59

year 2004
mileage 160,000
service record unknown
Solenoids where not adjusted.
yes problem seams to go away after about 45 minutes of driving .

Post by **JDS60R** » 06 Feb 2016, 13:21

The main thing that changes in 45 minutes is the viscosity of the fluid. It sounds like a leak at one of the actuators for the clutch packs. A qualified transmission shop will be able to hook up a scan tool and see the time difference between when the solenoid is actuated and when the clutch pack engages. You can back probe the wires to the solenoids at the connector and feel when the pack engages. If the engagement piston ( or whatever it uses to actuate) is faulty then the trans will have to be opened to repair.

If you are not comfortable with that level of diagnostics then open up the phone book ( Google these days I guess) and find a local trans shop with free diagnostics. Even if you spend $100 to know whats actually wrong its worth it.

There are other things that can go wrong to cause this. I noticed you said valve body gaskets were changed etc - I'm assuming those were done correctly.

Its very hard to tell without the vehicle on my scanner so you will need someone there to help. Don't spend money on shift flare fix it kits until you really know what you need. A good used transmission is always an option if all else fails or the fix/rebuild bill is too high.

As an R owners I can say this . Its inappropriate not to be driving your R around with all of its power and fun on tap. As you know the R has a turbo that can fix holes in your soul and remove the deficit that life sometimes provides.. Please get back to top running shape right away. Its just not right to have a broken R.

Post by **precopster** » 06 Feb 2016, 15:21

The engagement piston for the clutch pack will be in the VB, however line pressures which are determined by adjustment of the 3 primary solenoids is where I would begin.

The line pressures are measurable by means of the 3 x 12mm bolts on the outer LHS casing. Watch Hirram Guiterrez videos to check out his measurement procedure.

oscars60r · Post by **oscars60r** » 15 Feb 2016, 07:32

Well sent to local transmission shop. They recommend transmission replacement. I found a low mileage used transmission. I'm thinking of installing my self. Anyone know where I can get good step by step instructions. Should I pull motor and trans out together or drop trans out the bottom. I do have tools to do either way.

nsjames · Post by **nsjames** » 15 Feb 2016, 10:36

I have found with FWD cars it's just easier to drop then entire subframe and split them on the garage floor.

plus you can just do the subframe mounts while it's out.