1999 V70R AWD prepurchase tips

Jazzop · Post by **Jazzop** » 06 Feb 2016, 18:07

There is a 1999 V70R AWD for sale in town, and before I take a look at it, can anyone give me some advice on what to look for?

My initial triage will determine whether I want to pay a Volvo shop for a thorough prepurchase inspection.

1. How does the 1999 V70R compare to other P80 R models? Should I hold out for a different year? (I'm not interested in anything newer than the P80 chassis)

2. The photos of the car reveal that it does not have the front or rear spoiler, nor any roof rails. I am a little suspicious that it may not be a genuine R at all. Did the R cars have a special VIN digit I can check for?

3. What are some simple squawks I can look for that should be instant dealbreakers. I suspect the AWD and turbo are notorious for some issues.

Post by **abscate** » 06 Feb 2016, 18:26

The 1999 is a first of the hybrid years between P80 and P2, in a manner of thought.

The Electronic throttle module is the weakest part of this year, AWD and turbo are solid. See forum below

Post by **j-dawg** » 06 Feb 2016, 23:46

1. A lot of people shy away from 99s because of issues with the throttle module abscate mentioned. I went through the whole failed-ETM thing and thought it wasn't a dealbreaker, though it does strand you. I had the sensor replaced with one that will never fail, and the problem is gone. It cost me $350 to fix forever.

2. Digits 6/7 of the VIN should be 62.

3. Driveshafts are often removed when the system starts failing, and the cars then become FWD. Look for oil dripping out of the seal between the engine and transmission - it may indicate a failing rear main seal, usually owing to neglected PCV maintenance, which can quickly turn into a very big leak and oil starvation. Gotta remove the transmission to change the rear main seal.

Post by **precopster** » 06 Feb 2016, 23:59

As above ^^
1999 is officially the first year with a mechanical timing tensioner (far less costly over the hydraulic 2 part system) The 98s may have also had this if a late build.

The ignition system also dispenses with rotor, distributor cap and leads in favour of coil on plug. Easy fix is just carry one coil in the toolkit

There is also a low speed Canbus on the 1999MY. It is a good electrical system however some modules such as ETM and ECM need to be matched to the car before replacement.

The 1999 still has the trusty 4 speed auto....more of them around for spares. The next year's R got the 5 speed which has some bad press though at this age most Rs are on their 2nd 4 speed auto as well.

Jazzop · Post by **Jazzop** » 07 Feb 2016, 22:13

How interchangeable is the suspension with the 850? I would like to transfer my Konis, Eibachs, and IPD swaybars if possible, although the rear is unlikely to match up due to the AWD.

If I buy a USDM 850R or V70R, it will definitely be destined for a manual gearbox swap. Automatics and Geartronics are just anathema to me, period.

Post by **erikv11** » 07 Feb 2016, 23:11

abscate wrote: ... AWD and turbo are solid. ...

Turbo is solid for sure, super hardy.

But I thought the AWD was not much better than in 98, which is pretty troublesome? I.e. expect to be replacing fairly costly and hassle-wrought parts or to be just running it as a FWD.

Post by **precopster** » 08 Feb 2016, 00:23

Pretty much all the front end is interchangeable. Rear end is quite unique and may have Nivomat auto self levelling shocks and the matching (weak) springs if someone hasn't already swapped it back to a manual rear end.

Jazzop · Post by **Jazzop** » 08 Feb 2016, 07:10

If it has Nivomat, I would switch to standard suspension as soon as it started acting up or if I were already doing work back there (e.g., replacing brakes or bushings). Is the Nivomat an option, or was it standard on the V70R? I've never dealt with it before.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 08 Feb 2016, 07:23

If you do proceed make sure you get all of the keys and the remote keyfobs. They are insanely expensive to replace and you are captive to the dealership to do it since they need to be married to the car in software. Used keyfobs cannot be reprogrammed.

...Lee

Jazzop · Post by **Jazzop** » 08 Feb 2016, 07:28

Ozark Lee wrote:If you do proceed make sure you get all of the keys and the remote keyfobs. They are insanely expensive to replace and you are captive to the dealership to do it since they need to be married to the car in software. Used keyfobs cannot be reprogrammed.

...Lee

Thanks. I'm planning to walk away if there are any electrical/electronic issues, including keys. Chasing down electrical gremlins is one of my least favorite things in the world, especially on OBD2 cars. I'd only do it for a pre-1970s Brit car, and only because that's the price of entry for Lucas electrics.