New member, avid DIY'er now with two XC's

terryjr · Post by **terryjr** » 11 Feb 2016, 14:04

Next i need to find the source of engine to chassis vibration. The two torque mounts are new. I'm in no hurry to replace the one next to bevel gear but while i was working on timing belt i noticed one under the harmonic balancer. It look looked pretty beat up and fairly easy to change so i might try it wen it warms up a little outside

terryjr · Post by **terryjr** » 12 Feb 2016, 06:41

Battery wouldnt cooperate this morning. Wouldnt even take a jump. I had to jump it yestareday morning, I figure it just needed a good charge after sitting so long. So i ordered a new battery to pickup at lunch, tonight i get to change it

terryjr · Post by **terryjr** » 14 Feb 2016, 12:54

i have a problem. i changed my battery friday after a few slow cranks and not starts. Ran fine after jumped. held charge fine while i was at work thursday. Fiday was the no start and i changed it.

Yesterday car started fine, thought my battery problems were in the past. This morning it wouldnt start again. Battery wasnt dead, but not enought to get past the click on the starter. so i jumped it and started right up. started again on its own a couple hours later. I think somethongs draining the battery. I just read up on it and saw a procedure to reconnect in position II and cycle locks with key so i just finished that. I didnt do that friday. If its dead again tomorrow motning what should i look for other that obvious lights and fans?

Post by **precopster** » 14 Feb 2016, 13:38

Place an ammeter in series with one of the battery leads with ignition off. Wait 5 minutes for any modules such as PDM.and DDM to.shut down. Current drain should be under 100mA.

If it's much higher you have a faulty component somewhere. Now remove fuses one by one and put them back in immediately until you find a fuse which lowers the current draw. Once you find the circuit which draws current you need to find out what that fuse is for.

terryjr · Post by **terryjr** » 14 Feb 2016, 14:31

precopster wrote:Place an ammeter in series with one of the battery leads with ignition off. Wait 5 minutes for any modules such as PDM.and DDM to.shut down. Current drain should be under 100mA.

If it's much higher you have a faulty component somewhere. Now remove fuses one by one and put them back in immediately until you find a fuse which lowers the current draw. Once you find the circuit which draws current you need to find out what that fuse is for.

Thanks Mike, I just gave this a shot. i disconnected negative, ran the ammeter in series but as soon as id attached leads the car would wake up and turn interior lights on pulling about 4amps, after they shut back off it was pulling about 230ma. I also shut myself inside trunk so doors were all closed for the test.

does 230ma sound reasonable?

edit: currently restesting, this time i left voltmeter hanging out of trunk with leads clamped so i can check it periodicly. after lights shutoff .19a (190ma)

after 15minutes it dropped to 85ma

terryjr · Post by **terryjr** » 15 Feb 2016, 05:52

Car started fine this morning. I think it came down to me not installing the battery in the number II key position and not cycling the door locks with remote. We'll see how it goes i guess.

BUT I've discovered a new issue. The intermittent wipers have a mind of their own. Now matter how I adjusted it they would pick there aown speed and usually it was a fast constant like you had switch on full speed. My xc90 has an auto button on the switch, the 70 does not so I dont know what it was doing other than driving me nuts since I had no control over it. This mornings conditions were a light freezing rain, plus my commute is on a crowded highway, So a medium salty freezing mist with erratic wipers.

after some more research, it appears i may have rain sensor wipers but no off switch like my xc90. i going to try and disconnect the sensor by the mirror at lunch time

terryjr · Post by **terryjr** » 15 Feb 2016, 10:21

And another new issue. Driver side window just popped out of the track. Same thing happened on my xc90 so I know what i'll be doing after work.

Post by **matthew1** » 15 Feb 2016, 10:39

I've traced battery drain in my 850 to an organic fault: my son leaving the interior overhead lights on (several times 2-3 years ago), and the door open (1 month ago). This organic fault is currently pictured in my avatar to the right.

terryjr · Post by **terryjr** » 15 Feb 2016, 10:48

matthew1 wrote:I've traced battery drain in my 850 to an organic fault: my son leaving the interior overhead lights on (several times 2-3 years ago), and the door open (1 month ago). This organic fault is currently pictured in my avatar to the right.

HaHa I hear ya. Mine leave center lights on all the time in the xc90. Never killed the battery though but its drivin regularly.

All seems to be well since I reinstalled battery in number II key position and cycle the door locks. If it acts up again i might start suspecting a bad spot in the starter

And i unplugged the rain sensor by the mirror. I feel much better now. Gotta love "new" used cars

terryjr · Post by **terryjr** » 15 Feb 2016, 16:20

made the volvo dealer with 10 minutes to spare. picked up two new blue track sliders and replaced the broken one. window is fully functional again.

whats next?

New member, avid DIY'er now with two XC's

Re: New member, avid DIY'er now with two XC's