Need to do the head gasket and will have a lot of ?'s

[Mountainman18]

So, hi crowd, I am new here and thanks for all the support.

For starters, what is the best manual I can get for this car with good pictures and diagrams for under $30? I also have plenty of interior work to do.

What I know so far about this car is that the starter is missing the bracket that attaches it to the block. I am hoping this is why the starter performance seems weak when the plugs are all installed. It certainly bench tested well in the Autozone store. My buddy said that when trying to set to TDC w/ plugs removed he couldn't feel any undue difficulty in turning the damper.

When checking compression, #2 got about 25lbs all the rest were good. With a cap full of oil, that became 165 LBS. Now I plan on changing all the gaskets including HG and bringing pistons out through the top with the engine still in the car so I can get the piston rings. If the bores look good, I see no reason to remove the block. Anyone disagree with that please explain why?

I understand that my VVT Sprocket might need to have a new seal placed on it and I feel like changing all cam related gaskets. I don't have a cam holder. I suspect that with good timing marks, On the sprockets and all VVT parts, all I have to worry about is a fixture to hold the cam in place so I can remove the VVT hub. Also, anybody have a good way to check VVT before engine starts running?

Here you can see the oil in upper left by the VVT. This image also has a big tube ( Fuel return) going into the Throttle body and it was just siliconed in there. Anybody know what kind of connector it must have?

I also have a busted tube from the breather system. If you look at the Genuine Volvo diagram 2576845g It is the small tube between item 2 and 11. Guy from the Volvo store is like talking to a brick. I don't want to get just any old tube for that, because, maybe that tube is rated for backfire, or god knows what. Its the little tube that is a vacuum line into the manifold off a T on the fire trap. Anyone know where I can get an exact replacement?

I also have 2 parts by the exhaust area I don't know what they are.

This one is besides the O2 sensor in CAT

will I be needing to use my 3/4 impact to get the dampner off? I don't have access to air yet where the car is at.

I also plan on taking out Turbo to check that and will be posting things as I go along. I plan on lapping valves and changing valve guides/stems and all the other maintenance this car never saw. Your help is highly appreciated.
Thanks,
JOhn

[alschnertz]

For starters, what is the best manual I can get for this car with good pictures and diagrams for under $30?

My buddy said that when trying to set to TDC w/ plugs removed he couldn't feel any undue difficulty in turning the damper.

I understand that my VVT Sprocket might need to have a new seal placed on it and I feel like changing all cam related gaskets. I don't have a cam holder. I suspect that with good timing marks, On the sprockets and all VVT parts, all I have to worry about is a fixture to hold the cam in place so I can remove the VVT hub. Also, anybody have a good way to check VVT before engine starts running? This image also has a big tube ( Fuel return) going into the Throttle body and it was just siliconed in there. Anybody know what kind of connector it must have?

I also have a busted tube from the breather system. If you look at the Genuine Volvo diagram 2576845g It is the small tube between item 2 and 11. Guy from the Volvo store is like talking to a brick. I don't want to get just any old tube for that, because, maybe that tube is rated for backfire, or god knows what. Its the little tube that is a vacuum line into the manifold off a T on the fire trap. Anyone know where I can get an exact replacement?

will I be needing to use my 3/4 impact to get the dampner off? I don't have access to air yet where the car is at.
I plan...and all the other maintenance this car never saw.

Here are some of my opinions.
I've used a Haynes manual for my '01. But, it is for a RHD model. I'm pretty sure you won't find another for the shade tree mechanic.

Why were you trying to set the car to TDC when changing the plugs? You should realize that the marks on the cams and crankshaft are NOT TDC marks. They are timing marks for the cams and crank.

From what I know, there is not a replaceable seal in the VVT hub. You just change the entire hub. I had to around 175,000 miles.
Get a cam holder. You will save yourself endless hours of aggrivation and concern of whether or not you got the cams set properly. You can make a cam holder and the Haynes manual even gives tips on making one. I bought one.
I don't think there is any way to check the VVT hub without the engine running other than to see oil sprayed around it.
I can't make out what tube you are referring to, but you are correct that siliconed in place is no good.

While you have everything apart, it will make sense to replace all the hoses for the PCV system and maybe the breather box too. FCP Euro is a good source, but there are many others.

I did not have to take the damper off to do the VVT.

Be sure to put a lot of thought into the repairs of the car. These can quickly turn into a money pit as parts are not really cheap. And a working '01 S40 is not really worth a lot more that maybe $1200 (at least around here).

[precopster]

Once the CVVT cam is removed slide the cam seal back ro the rear of the camshaft. You"ll need to remove the cam sensor fitting then just slide it off.

Then slide the new cam seal on all the way up from the rear. No need to take the CVVT hub off the camshaft.

[Mountainman18]

Once the CVVT cam is removed slide the cam seal back ro the rear of the camshaft. You"ll need to remove the cam sensor fitting then just slide it off.

Then slide the new cam seal on all the way up from the rear. No need to take the CVVT hub off the camshaft.

Thanks