Remanufactured Turbo on my 850 R wagon - need guidance

[zimmerdale]

My new turbo arrived today. I want to be sure I have all hoses, lines, washers, gaskets, bolts, nuts, studs, etc. on hand before I start. I can't find a good write up on replacing an old turbo with a new one. I'm keeping everything stock, and I want to replace anything that might need it on a car with 200K. (By the way, I'm replacing the heater core, firewall junction, and all related hoses and pipes at the same time.)

The turbo rebuilder, XS Boost (http://www.xsboostturbochargers.com), requires a new oil feed supply line in order for the warranty to be valid.

So, as I'm trying to put together a complete list, this is what I come up with. What am I missing, or what don't I actually need?

Turbo Oil Feed Line (1275205)
Turbo Oil Line Copper Seal Ring 12 x 16 MM (947282) x2
Turbo Oil Line Copper Seal Ring 14 x 18 MM (947621) x2

Turbo Oil Drain Line (1275207)
Turbo Drain Pipe Seal Kit (31251439)

Exhaust Stud (Turbo to Header Pipe) (1357769) x3 (My new turbo has these installed already)
Exhaust Manifold Stud (Manifold to Turbo) (1336261) x4 (My new turbo has two of these installed, so do I just need 2?)
Turbo Manifold Lock Nut (977209) x4

Return Turbo Cooling Hose (Outlet) (31439471)
Turbo Inlet Cooling Hose - At Turbo (6842190)

What seals or rings do I need for the coolant banjo fittings?
Do I just use regular exhaust manifold nuts (985921) on the turbo to header pipe exhaust studs?

What am I missing, or what don't I actually need?

I can't find a write-up on changing out the turbo on an 850. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks a bunch for any suggestions or advice. MVS has been invaluable in helping me keep this great car on the road.

Jason

[bskeels]

The coolant banjo fittings take the 12x 16mm (947282), the part number for the for the header pipe nut is 977209, it is the same one used at the turbo to manifold. The exhaust manifold usually retains the other 2 studs for the turbo, sometimes they can loosen up. The only thing I noticed missing is the paper gasket at the turbo to drain line (31251456). I would check the condition of the vacuum lines that are connected to the turbo as you replace it. Mark them out if you need to, one is on the compressor housing, one on blow off valve, and the other is on the waste gate.

[Ozark Lee]

I suppose that if they have the rules on the warranty you need to follow them to be covered but I have never, ever, heard of an oil supply line or return line going bad short of slamming the car into a telephone pole. The oil return line O ring and gasket are a must as are all of the crush washers on the banjo bolts. There are three sets of crush washers, one set for the oil supply and then two sets for the coolant lines. You should also change the rubber coolant supply and return lines while the turbo is out. It is MUCH easier to do it then than it is after the turbo is installed and they do go bad regularly.

Does the turbo come with a new compressor bypass valve? If not, I would replace that diaphragm since most of them leak at this age.

...Lee

[tryingbe]

I suppose that if they have the rules on the warranty you need to follow them to be covered but I have never, ever, heard of an oil supply line or return line going bad

Oil supply line goes bad due to people don't change their oil often enough, having hot shut down, don't use synthetic oil, etc. The line can clogged with carbon build-up and block oil flow even when the line looks perfect outside.


Oil return line can go bad for the same reasons.

Turbo usually die due to external causes, lack of quality oil feed, clogged oil return, clogged catalytic converter, torn CBV, non functional PCV, etc.

[zimmerdale]

The rebuilder says exactly that: "Check the oil drain line for kinking, clogging, restrictions or any other deterioration and replace as necessary. We highly recommend replacing the oil feed supply line and not reusing the old line even if it seems reusable. If you choose to reuse the old line, the warranty will not be valid in case of a failure! Debris or oil coking may restrict oil supply and cannot be removed by chemicals. If a restricted oil supply line damaged the previous turbo, it will damage the rebuilt turbo as well."

Why do the turbo manifold lock nuts (977209) cost $12.99 each (!) and the regular exhaust manifold nuts (985921) only cost $2.99 each? I trust Volvo quality, but it pains me to spend over $90 for seven little nuts.

"The only thing I noticed missing is the paper gasket at the turbo to drain line (31251456)"

This is part of the Turbo Drain Pipe Seal Kit (31251439) that I already have from IPD. I've also previously replaced the all the vacuum lines on the car with silicone, so they should be fine.

"There are three sets of crush washers, one set for the oil supply and then two sets for the coolant lines."

So, do the two coolant banjo fittings use 4 of the 12 x 16mm (947282)? And does the oil supply use 2 of the larger ones, 14 x 18 MM (947621)? IPD lists both sizes as needed for the oil supply, but I can't find anyone listing the details for the coolant banjo fittings.

"Does the turbo come with a new compressor bypass valve?"

Yes, this is a full unit ready to install. It's beautiful to look at with everything clean and shiny and new. The only giveaway that it's remanufactured is the faded original Volvo ID plate still in place.

Thanks for all the advice!
Jason

[bugs11]

I replaced all the turbo vacuum lines with one of the IDP silicone kits, the yellow/green/red kit on my 96 850T. There's a diagram out that shows where the vacuum lines go.

I'll share one other bit of advice I was told - don't over tighten the banjo bolts and pour oil into the turbo before connecting the oil lines. I was told you don't want the turbo starting up dry, same reason some guys pour oil into the oil filter before install.