My 1987 240 DL would not start this morning. Traced it to lack of fuel pressure (being retired gives me the time)
Pulled the fuel pump out of the tank, but discovered there is not 12 volts at the pump.
With the ignition switch on, I have voltage to the blue wire in the fuel pump assemble for the level gage, but the black wire to the pump has nothing. I disconnected the wiring connector to the pump assembly and I have no voltage to the yellow/orange wire. I cannot find any blown fuses.
Any suggestions on why I do not get 12 volts
P.S. It is interesting that the male side of the connector has two wires; a yellow/orange one and a grey one. The female connector, which is part of the pump assemble, has a grey one and a black one, with a separate brown wire for ground to the car body. On the inside of the pump assemble itself there is a blue wire to the level gage and a black wire to the fuel pump. I assume the brown ground wire grounds the pump assemble and the grey wire then becomes the blue wire inside the assembly and the black wire becomes the internal black wire. Sound reasonable?
no electric to fuel pump
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precopster
- Posts: 7543
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In the engine bay there is a grey fuel relay. This is your problem. To verify find the power supply lead going in to the relay then switch on the ignition. If power doesn't go across the relay to the output side the moment you turn the key you have a bad relay.
Power to fuel pump is momentary with engine off so don't think too much of no power at the fuel pump just yet. The coil side of the relay will interrupt power after 2-3 seconds if engine is not started.
Power to fuel pump is momentary with engine off so don't think too much of no power at the fuel pump just yet. The coil side of the relay will interrupt power after 2-3 seconds if engine is not started.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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Cincyken
- Posts: 129
- Joined: 2 March 2009
- Year and Model: 1995 850 T5-R
- Location: Loveland Ohio (Cincinnati area)
I am still working on the problems.
The Volvo service manual section 3 was very helpful.
A couple comments about this manual:
1. Page 1 shows the main fuel pump fed off of fuse no. 6 via a red wire and the tank fuel pump off of fuse no. 4 via a Y-R wire. I believe that is correct.
2. Page no. 10 shows the main fuel pump (D) fed off the hot side of fuse no. 4 via a Y-R wire, not off no. 6. This would mean that the pump is not fuse protected. I believe this is incorrect.
3. Page 10 shows F to be the fuel pump relay, I believe this is incorrect and is just a simple connector.
Now, back to my problem:
I was able to get voltage to the in-tank pump by jumping across fuses 4 and 6. But the pump still did not work, so at that time I realized the pump was bad. As a double check, I removed the pump, I put 12 volts directly to it and nothing.
I replaced the in-tank pump, but still no voltage to it, even as soon as the ignitions switch is turned on, no voltage.
I jumped 4 and 6 again and got voltage to pump and pump works but still car will not start.
That means one thing, I also have a bad fuel relay.
Now, the manual says it is located under the glove compartment, well i took that cover off and looked under the glove compartment....lots of wires and connectors, but where is the relay?
So, where is my mail fuel relay (item E on page 10) located.
The Volvo service manual section 3 was very helpful.
A couple comments about this manual:
1. Page 1 shows the main fuel pump fed off of fuse no. 6 via a red wire and the tank fuel pump off of fuse no. 4 via a Y-R wire. I believe that is correct.
2. Page no. 10 shows the main fuel pump (D) fed off the hot side of fuse no. 4 via a Y-R wire, not off no. 6. This would mean that the pump is not fuse protected. I believe this is incorrect.
3. Page 10 shows F to be the fuel pump relay, I believe this is incorrect and is just a simple connector.
Now, back to my problem:
I was able to get voltage to the in-tank pump by jumping across fuses 4 and 6. But the pump still did not work, so at that time I realized the pump was bad. As a double check, I removed the pump, I put 12 volts directly to it and nothing.
I replaced the in-tank pump, but still no voltage to it, even as soon as the ignitions switch is turned on, no voltage.
I jumped 4 and 6 again and got voltage to pump and pump works but still car will not start.
That means one thing, I also have a bad fuel relay.
Now, the manual says it is located under the glove compartment, well i took that cover off and looked under the glove compartment....lots of wires and connectors, but where is the relay?
So, where is my mail fuel relay (item E on page 10) located.
- 93Regina
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I remove glove box...open glove-box door, and the screws can be seen...and go "fishing" for a seven wire connector, with same color code as shown in manual.Cincyken wrote:So, where is my mail fuel relay (item E on page 10) located.
Fuel pump relay may have slid forward towards firewall; if there is "carpet" below glove-box, this may have to be removed, and/or front part of floor carpet.
I did not own a 1987, but that fuel relay will be located either straight ahead of glove box (and downward), or maybe to left side, near heater-fan unit.
- 93Regina
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Unknown...put a test light on fuse 4, and see if it lights up when cranking engine.Cincyken wrote:I jumped 4 and 6 again and got voltage to pump and pump works but still car will not start.
That means one thing, I also have a bad fuel relay.
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Cincyken
- Posts: 129
- Joined: 2 March 2009
- Year and Model: 1995 850 T5-R
- Location: Loveland Ohio (Cincinnati area)
my final installment:
No electric to fuse #4 even when cranking engine.
Eventually found fuel relay, tested it, bad internal coil. Replaced it.
Car still will not start, found a plugged fuel filter, replaced it.
Now, I have a fuel leak, the elbow fitting from the discharge of the main pump to the filter is leaking (tiny hole in it). Unfortunately, you can not just buy it you must buy the assemble for $65.00. Fortunately, the local Parker Hydraulics shop came up with a combination of fittings and fuel line that did the trick for $8.00.
I (at 69) am getting to old to work on cars anymore.
No electric to fuse #4 even when cranking engine.
Eventually found fuel relay, tested it, bad internal coil. Replaced it.
Car still will not start, found a plugged fuel filter, replaced it.
Now, I have a fuel leak, the elbow fitting from the discharge of the main pump to the filter is leaking (tiny hole in it). Unfortunately, you can not just buy it you must buy the assemble for $65.00. Fortunately, the local Parker Hydraulics shop came up with a combination of fittings and fuel line that did the trick for $8.00.
I (at 69) am getting to old to work on cars anymore.
- 93Regina
- Posts: 2813
- Joined: 18 January 2014
- Year and Model: 93:240/940
- Location: Sunflower State
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Jack LaLanne - 1984 (age 70) – handcuffed, shackled, and fighting strong winds and currents, he towed 70 rowboats, one with several guests, from the Queen's Way Bridge in the Long Beach Harbor to the Queen Mary, 1 mileCincyken wrote:getting to old to work on cars anymore.
LaLanne died of respiratory failure due to pneumonia at his home on 23 January 2011. He was 96. According to his family, he had been sick for a week, but refused to see a doctor. They added that he had been performing his daily workout routine the day before his death"
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precopster
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Thanks for the Jack LaLanne link, Regina. I never knew of this extra-ordinary human being. After viewing about 30 of his videos tonight I am a LaLanne addict. All I have to do is make my body catch up with my mind 
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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