Procedure for Removing Upper Oxygen Sensor 2000 V70 Non-Turbo

estrekal · Post by **estrekal** » 17 Mar 2016, 09:56

Hello,
I've had a check engine light on for about a month now. I had the codes pulled and they indicated that the upper oxygen sensor was probably bad. I went ahead and ordered the part, I should have it this weekend. I was planning on replacing the sensor probably on Saturday. I actually did the same sensor on my wife's 2.5L Jetta just a couple weeks ago, so I have some idea how this works. The sensor itself looks like it is pretty easy to get to, much like the Jetta, but I am having a hard time locating where the sensor connects on the Volvo. Is there anything supplemental that I need to remove to get at it?

On a side note, my car has stalled two or three times in the last few weeks when I got to start it, would the oxygen sensor possibly be causing this? It runs fine once it's one, but I have noticed that it's stumbled a couple times just at start up since the CEL has been on. It's a 2000 V70 with about 199K on it.

Any procedure, walk through, tips, or advice would be greatly appreciated. I do apologize if this is already a sticky somewhere.

Thanks in advance,
Edan

Post by **regent** » 17 Mar 2016, 10:45

See this post, you have a very similar HO2S arrangement. Hope this helps (assuming that your diagnosis is correct)

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=49898

Post by **dosbricks** » 17 Mar 2016, 10:59

It appears the above DIY posted by regent is right on about the type connector on your 2000 V70.

http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/TrevH ... 20_one.pdf

Because you have NA it will be easier to get to the connector. In Nevada you should not have much rust. You can probably remove the front sensor with a large adjustable wrench without having to purchase a dedicated type tool. I've found that to be the case here in South TX.

Do the O2 sensor and see if it takes care of the stalling. If not, come back for more advice.

Herb Goltz · Post by **Herb Goltz** » 17 Mar 2016, 11:47

What codes did you pull on your car? I doubt that the failed sensor would cause stalling-- mine was dead, but exhibited no stalling problems. Post the codes here and people will help. As for the sensor, make sure that you get the appropriate Denso fuel air ratio sensor (a broadband O2 sensor) and not the narrow band Bosch, which won't work with a normally aspirated 2000 V70. I used an O2 sensor socket and a half inch ratchet, and I recall it being a bit tricky just because it was hard to get more than a few clicks of the ratchet at a time. I live in the rust belt, so I soaked the sensor with penetrating oil for a couple days before tackling the job.

Good luck!

estrekal · Post by **estrekal** » 17 Mar 2016, 12:32

Thank you all for the replies on this matter.

Unfortunately, the guy who pulled the codes didn't give me a printout of what he actually came up. It didn't really occur to me until later that I should have asked for that, however, about a year ago my car was running a couple different codes when the CEL popped on. Those codes were the P1118, a P0171 System too Rich (Bank 1),and a P1101 MAF Out Of Range. When those came up the car was running just fine though, and after cleaning the MAF and throttle bottle the CEL disappeared.

The stalling isn't chronic or anything, but I have noticed it on two or three occasions. The car seemed to take one extra crank to start this morning too. I am going to go ahead and change out the O2 sensor on Saturday. I did buy a Bosch 15558 wide band sensor, I was sure if that was OE or the Denso was, so I went with the Bosch. I think it will be alright. I am not overly concerned about rust either living in the high dry state of Nevada. The one on the VW came out with very little extra effort.

Thanks again for all the useful information. I will update as soon as I do the repairs!

-Edan

estrekal · Post by **estrekal** » 19 Mar 2016, 15:23

Hi all,
So got the O2 sensor changed out, it wasn't that difficult, but the CEL is still one. Unfortunately in the process I managed to break a couple of things. The large vacuum line that goes from the intake hose to the intake manifold cracked and the small vacuum line from the side of the air box that runs to the underside broke at both nipples. I am sure that is maybe causing the CEL to stay on. The car is running fine, but I would really like to get that light off. Would should I look up to find both those vacuum lines, or can I just use standard hose from the auto parts store?

Edan

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 20 Mar 2016, 08:03

estrekal wrote:Hi all,
So got the O2 sensor changed out, it wasn't that difficult, but the CEL is still one. Unfortunately in the process I managed to break a couple of things. The large vacuum line that goes from the intake hose to the intake manifold cracked and the small vacuum line from the side of the air box that runs to the underside broke at both nipples. I am sure that is maybe causing the CEL to stay on. The car is running fine, but I would really like to get that light off. Would should I look up to find both those vacuum lines, or can I just use standard hose from the auto parts store?

Edan

Edan, use any tubing you can find and the little rubber connectors and elbows they sell in most auto parts stores (they didn't have any left in the ones near me!) to fix those broken pieces. Air in those lines will throw EVAP codes, e.g., P0455, P0442. I have never broken tubing, just elbows and connectors. If I were you, I'd drive to an Autozone, pick up the elbows and tubing, get them in there, and ask a worker to read and erase the codes and you'll be good to go.

estrekal · Post by **estrekal** » 20 Mar 2016, 17:46

Update: I got in my car this morning to go to the grocery store and the CEL was off. I was able to run from flexible vacuum line from the side of the airbox to the underside. I also replaced the large vacuum line that runs from the sensor on the intake hose to the intake manifold. I was a little weary though because the hose is just some stuff I got at the auto parts store and it doesn't flex (or have the bends) that the stock tubing does.

I was afraid that it might pinch and restrict flow through it. It seem like everything is functioning properly right now...though I did run into some other snags too. The flex pipe that sucks air into the airbox is fairly brittle and cracked a little bit in taking the airbox out. I'm sorry to say that I just patched up that small crack with some duct tape for the time being. Hopefully that will hold for the foreseeable future until I can get out the junk yard to try to find a new one.

I think I'm at the point now with this car that everything under the hood is super brittle and breaks fairly easy if I'm not super careful. I guess that probably comes from the fact that it is 16 years old now and I live in the high desert. In any case, it's running well for now without any warning lights on. Let's hope this trend continues into the foreseeable future.

Edan

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 20 Mar 2016, 18:52

Duct tape works wonders! Though, as you start poking around here at MVS, and see the SWEET blue silicone hose engine bays, you might just start upgrading every single line! I haven't gotten to that point yet. But one day soon...

Glad your CEL is off. Happy driving!

estrekal · Post by **estrekal** » 21 Mar 2016, 10:16

P.S. I apologize for the gratuitous spelling and grammar errors in my former posts. I guess I was either overly excited and/or overly frustrated with the outcome of my repairs over the last two days. All in all I think it was a success, I've been driving around now for two days without any issues or warning lights. Thanks again for all the input and suggestions, I certainly appreciate it!

Best,
Edan

: Here's the old Volvo enjoying the ocean.

: One more.