Rear break line...What is this called?

[MilwaukeeV70owner]

I ruptured a brake line & am wondering if i can only acquire the short piece that goes from the metal brake line to the the caliper. I just dont know what to search for. Also is this a straight forward repair, or do i need some sort of special crimping tool?
2000 xc70
Thanks

[oragex]

Looks like the rear flexible hose. You can remove the clip and unscrew the rusted nut at the right while keeping well on the other side from rotating so an not to snap the metal line at the right. I'd use plenty of penetrating oil days ahead. Then unscrew it from the caliper. The hard part will be to loosen the caliper bleeder to purge the air, and there might be air inside other caliper(s) by now as the main reservoir has emptied.

[scot850]

As oragex says be very careful disconnecting the flexible hose from the hard metal line. That metal line runs up over the front of the rear sub-frame and cannot be replaced without removing the rear sub-frame and fuel tank. If it does break, best case is you may be able to make up a short section to add to the existing hard line to replace the broken section. If you have to do that, then removing the jacking point where the 2 pipes meet may give you better access.

Also as oragex says, plenty of good penetrating oil and wire brushing of the couplings and the bleed screw a day or so before hand using PB Blaster or Deep Creep should help. Use a very good quality 11mm brake pipe wrench (can never remember what you guys over here call them). I used a Snap-on, but it was very expensive. For the bleed screw a 6 point socket will help.

The flexi-hose has a 14mm (?) nut end at the point it meets the hard line. It is countersunk into the bracket mounted into the jacking point. Cutting the retaining spring that holds it into the retainer may allow you to move the flexible pipe far enough forward to stop it being held by the bracket, this will allow the hard pipe end nut to be held from turning, but allow the flexible line to be turned instead. Replace the retaining spring.

It is a stinker of a job, but take your time and get the penetrating oil on there ASAP.

Not knowing the chassis number on your car, but guessing higher than 540000, flexible hose part # is 9209896 (same for RH and LH sides), spring clip is 999290.

Neil.

[BEJinFbk]

I'd start with the right size brake line flare nut wrench

and PLENTY of PB Blaster!

Spray plenty of PBB on those connections a day or so ahead of time. Give it time to work.

[abscate]

Crack the caliper end of the flexible hose before you remove the caliper, if you are doing more brake work. It is much easier to crack it with the caliper held firm, and avoid rounding the hose fitting. You can't remove it until you get the other end free, of course, just loosen it 1/8 turn

[erikv11]

I've been undoing a lot of these rusty rear brake lines recently. +1 to the previous few comments; I also use a little heat, and usually start by also trying to tighten the fitting, just to get it to budge a smidge. That breaks the threads loose and then it can be loosened. But paramount is be very careful to not round it off.

[850 LPT]

+1 to everything above.

That open box wrench needs to be 11mm. If you are planning to buy one, get the best quality you can get.

This is what you would be shopping for:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -9209896oe

[MilwaukeeV70owner]

Is the flare nut wrench absolutely necessary? Or can I heat it up and channel lock it? Wait a minute, isn't brake fluid flammable?

[abscate]

Two good big channel locks will work pretty well on those fittings

On edit....no to channel locks, go for the correct tool or locking vice grips

[MilwaukeeV70owner]

Great advice. Thanks.