1999 Volvo v70 Passenger side Front Wheel Play

paredown · Post by **paredown** » 08 Apr 2016, 15:49

Hard to describe--I had the wheel off, can't see anything obviously loose.

With wheel on the ground, if I grab the top (12 o'clock) and try to move it in and out, I get a definite clunking noise--definite play somewhere.

I'm getting a drumming vibration while driving that is getting worse.

I also seem to have a sticking front brake caliper (maybe related).

My wife did drop the passenger side front into a New York pothole (hit hard enough for one of the muffler rubber hangers to shear).

I did the CV joint when I first rebuilt this thing (2+ years ago)--new grease and boots, and they still look good. Also did outside tie rod ends, control arms and torsion bar ends, and all of those look OK on a visual inspection.

Wheel bearing?

Ideas for checking (I can get it up on jack stands).

Post by **EstVolvo** » 08 Apr 2016, 17:49

1970 V70?
Try driving on highway exit/entrance ramps and listen closely if there is any change/increase in the noise when going left or right.
Rust tends to build up between the rubber boots and the caliper. This in return tends to choke the sliding pins.

Post by **oragex** » 08 Apr 2016, 18:26

EstVolvo wrote:1970 V70?

Quite rare, must be worth quite a bit

When some play cannot be felt by hand, a pry bar can help (such as the wheel lug wrench). This way the ball joint can be checked, same for the control arm. Is there noise or just vibration?

Quite rare for a wheel bearing to have this much play. I'd suggest before replacing any bearing, after removing the brake disk and the caliper, turn the bearing by hand and feel how smooth it turns. It might be a little rough, too rough means it needs replaced.

Post by **abscate** » 08 Apr 2016, 18:45

Probably bad ball joint. Did you get them cheap?

Fixed title

paredown · Post by **paredown** » 08 Apr 2016, 20:55

Thanks for fixing the title, abscate--I was rushing to get out the door.

-definitely getting worse noise on hard turns when the steering wheel comes back to center
-Noise or just vibration?--a little of both. But it has definitely worsened recently.
-Cheap ball joints?--Can't remember whether they were OEM or Meyle or Lemdorfer, but from FCP, so decent quality. They've been in service for about two years.

(I forgot to add, I did the struts and mounts at the same time as the rest of the front end, and did not see any evidence of the strut tower moving.)

Slide pins rusted--that looks like what I was seeing on the brake caliper. I bought the parts to do a caliper rebuild last year so now is probably the time to do it!

The odd thing--when I was try to move it, I would get play for two or three rocking motions, and then it would seem to go away??

Post by **abscate** » 10 Apr 2016, 04:37

Try checking play with the wheel up in the air on jack. You need to unload the suspension to check.

Don't go under the car on jack, but set an IPhone and take a movie of your front suspension while you pull on the wheel

Play at 9-3 o'clock......tie rod ends, steering rack, bad strut bearings
Play at 12-6 o'clock.....ball joint, bad strut bearings

JRev · Post by **JRev** » 10 Apr 2016, 06:18

One tip I found useful for when I checked for play before I replaced the control arm/ball joint, was once you jack the front end up (with load off suspension, as mentioned above) place a pry bar under the tyre and then check for movement in the ball joint

Post by **JRL** » 10 Apr 2016, 07:04

Inner or outer tie rod
Wheel bearing
Lower control arm bushings
Ball joint(s)
or at worst:
Bad steering rack

paredown · Post by **paredown** » 10 Apr 2016, 09:04

Today's a day I wish I had a garage to work in--despite having some spring days already, it is a brisk 38 degrees out, which does not inspire me to work on the car.

Thanks everyone for the ideas--I guess it is possible that the ball joints/control arm bushings are shot after 2 years--I know that when I took the car through the test last summer, the guy was showing me play in the driver's side control arm bushings (also only in service for 2 years).

I'll see if I can gird my loins and do a little disassembly and checking today.

Post by **oragex** » 10 Apr 2016, 10:11

Unfortunately, FCP is not always a warranty for parts quality. Sole warranty is getting Volvo, Lemforder or Sachs. Febi or Meyle (even HD) are a gamble that can last as little as 6 months.