Back story: I currently own a deadly reliable Honda Civic hatch that is my daily driver.
I am armed with some very basic mechanical knowledge, but have been wary of attempting bigger jobs so that I don't screw up my daily. I do have a keen interest in learning.
First things first, the Volvo 850 in question is $500 Canadian ($29.37 USD), so I knew it wouldn't be in the best shape.
It was formerly owned by a mechanic.
It is a 1994 Turbo 4 speed auto.
I paid for an inspection and these are the things that came up:
1. Odometer does not work - Currently says 175k
2. Emergency Brake does not work - Shop didn't give details on what the symptoms were. Quoted $200 to fix.
3. Drivers seat does not adjust.
4. Passenger side rocker panel rusted through.
5. Right front cv shaft - Quoted $375 to replace.
6. Driver side outer tie rod end - Quoted $300 to replace (includes alignment)
So far, this isn't enough to scare me off.
With the exception of the body work, and with liberal use of DIY websites (MVS, Robert DIY), I'm fairly confident that I can tackle the other 5 problems outlined above in due time.
I haven't driven or checked out the car in person yet (other than a quick walk around one evening). Is there anything else I can look for to help give me an idea of whether I should walk away, or buy it? The shop isn't a Volvo specialist shop, so I'm sure they didn't check things like the PCV system, or some of the other Volvo-specific problems that pop up with these cars.
Thinking of adopting a Volvo 850 project -- need advice,
- rspi
- Posts: 7303
- Joined: 5 November 2011
- Year and Model: 850 T-5R Wagon
- Location: Cincinnati OH
- Has thanked: 34 times
- Been thanked: 72 times
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Contact:
Contact rspi..
Did you watch the pre-purchase video?
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
- misha
- Posts: 5379
- Joined: 7 December 2008
- Year and Model: '97 850 2.5 20v
- Location: Serbia
- Has thanked: 152 times
- Been thanked: 402 times
I had never seen 850 or s,v,c,xc70 with even a touch of rust.
That rocker panel was damaged somewhere in the past and wasn't repaired properly.That could be the only explanation.
These cars just don't rust.
And 300$ to replace outer tie rod and perform allignment....."stealership" would be cheaper.
Premium quality tie rod is about 15-20$,takes about 15 minutes to replace it.
That rocker panel was damaged somewhere in the past and wasn't repaired properly.That could be the only explanation.
These cars just don't rust.
And 300$ to replace outer tie rod and perform allignment....."stealership" would be cheaper.
Premium quality tie rod is about 15-20$,takes about 15 minutes to replace it.
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS
- theWIFES_S70
- Posts: 1218
- Joined: 24 July 2015
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 base
- Location: Queens, New York
- Has thanked: 61 times
- Been thanked: 36 times
I was/still am a Nissan Altima owner, so I know a little about reliable cars... (I've had a broken thermostat for two years in the Nissan, a ton of oil in my cylinders, a bad knock sensor and all I get is the occasional flutter of the RPMS!) My wife has always wanted a stick P80 so I figured it was time to give it a try.
These cars are very intuitive. You could probably do all the suspension by just taking your time and looking ay how stuff goes on and comes off. There's no overly designed stuff on these cars. (Unlike, say, a Saab...)
Good quality inner and outer tie rods will cost you less than half what you were quoted. Axles, too. (Order the axle seal and replace that when you swap out the axle, especially if that's the original axel.) My first work on my wife's car were the inner and outer tie rods. Got it all done in a day, with no complications. (My first ever suspension/steering work ever. Tried to do the struts, but couldn't get the nuts off with my hand tools and just went the "quick strut" way.)
Odometer needs a little plastic gear that costs less than $10 to get it functioning again. (And hours taking the dash apart!)
Quarter panel rust seems a little odd...
These cars are very intuitive. You could probably do all the suspension by just taking your time and looking ay how stuff goes on and comes off. There's no overly designed stuff on these cars. (Unlike, say, a Saab...)
Good quality inner and outer tie rods will cost you less than half what you were quoted. Axles, too. (Order the axle seal and replace that when you swap out the axle, especially if that's the original axel.) My first work on my wife's car were the inner and outer tie rods. Got it all done in a day, with no complications. (My first ever suspension/steering work ever. Tried to do the struts, but couldn't get the nuts off with my hand tools and just went the "quick strut" way.)
Odometer needs a little plastic gear that costs less than $10 to get it functioning again. (And hours taking the dash apart!)
Quarter panel rust seems a little odd...
Retired:
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K
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kahl
- Posts: 943
- Joined: 27 October 2012
- Year and Model: 2000V70XC
- Location: columbus ohio
- Been thanked: 10 times
I had a 94 850 turbo and I really miss that car. Nothing is that difficult on the 94 that a righty tighty loosely lefty guy cannot fix. Mine did not have the OBS port had to use the blinking light under the hood for CEL info. The first thing I would get a handle on is when the last timing belt was done and PCV condition. Then condition of all the fluids. Make a list then do one job at a time.
Good luck with your decision!
Good luck with your decision!
Are you talking about Robert's youtube channel?rspi wrote:Did you watch the pre-purchase video?
I do live in the snow belt, so rust isn't all that uncommon here, even on Volvo's.misha wrote:I had never seen 850 or s,v,c,xc70 with even a touch of rust.
That rocker panel was damaged somewhere in the past and wasn't repaired properly.That could be the only explanation.
These cars just don't rust.
Those prices were in Canadian.And 300$ to replace outer tie rod and perform allignment....."stealership" would be cheaper.
Premium quality tie rod is about 15-20$,takes about 15 minutes to replace it.
Parts are pricier here, as it labor, especially with our low dollar.
Your post is comforting in that even an amateur hobbyist like myself can handle some jobs on my own.theWIFES_S70 wrote:These cars are very intuitive. You could probably do all the suspension by just taking your time and looking ay how stuff goes on and comes off. There's no overly designed stuff on these cars. (Unlike, say, a Saab...)
I've also been on the lookout for a 9-5 Aero, but they are impossible to find for less than $5000 Canadian.
- misha
- Posts: 5379
- Joined: 7 December 2008
- Year and Model: '97 850 2.5 20v
- Location: Serbia
- Has thanked: 152 times
- Been thanked: 402 times
You also can't find a good 850 in good condition for cheap.
500$ is a scrap value for...i must say ...scrap car.
A set of new performance tires for T5 costs more than 500$.
T5 in good condition is still worth a few thousands of U.S $$$.
T5R even more.
In EU,850 in perfect condition can be worth even up to 5-10k € depending on model.There was one yellow '97 T5R in Swiss with 280k km on the clock for 13k € two years ago.
Scrap 850 are selling for more than 500€ in EU.
500$ is a scrap value for...i must say ...scrap car.
A set of new performance tires for T5 costs more than 500$.
T5 in good condition is still worth a few thousands of U.S $$$.
T5R even more.
In EU,850 in perfect condition can be worth even up to 5-10k € depending on model.There was one yellow '97 T5R in Swiss with 280k km on the clock for 13k € two years ago.
Scrap 850 are selling for more than 500€ in EU.
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS
So is your consensus that this is a good deal?misha wrote:You also can't find a good 850 in good condition for cheap.
500$ is a scrap value for...i must say ...scrap car.
A set of new performance tires for T5 costs more than 500$.
T5 in good condition is still worth a few thousands of U.S $$$.
T5R even more.
In EU,850 in perfect condition can be worth even up to 5-10k € depending on model.There was one yellow '97 T5R in Swiss with 280k km on the clock for 13k € two years ago.
Scrap 850 are selling for more than 500€ in EU.
Rusty rocker panel and all?
- misha
- Posts: 5379
- Joined: 7 December 2008
- Year and Model: '97 850 2.5 20v
- Location: Serbia
- Has thanked: 152 times
- Been thanked: 402 times
I would avoid it just because of rusted out rocker panel.
Like i said....these cars just don't rust.They are born in Sweden were snow and salt are present all the time and they just don't rust.
It MUST had some kind of damage on that part which wasn't repaired properly.
If your mechanic ask 300$ for tie rod replacement and alignment...body shop will destroy you for a proper rocker panel replacement.
Like i said....these cars just don't rust.They are born in Sweden were snow and salt are present all the time and they just don't rust.
It MUST had some kind of damage on that part which wasn't repaired properly.
If your mechanic ask 300$ for tie rod replacement and alignment...body shop will destroy you for a proper rocker panel replacement.
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS
- theWIFES_S70
- Posts: 1218
- Joined: 24 July 2015
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 base
- Location: Queens, New York
- Has thanked: 61 times
- Been thanked: 36 times
Yeah, I've only ever been a tuneup/brakes/cooling system flush kind of guy before our S70. But with help from the fellas on MVS and from rspi on Youtube, I've really been able to accomplish a lot. There are still a few things to do, e.g., replace my axle seals, do the SAS delete, replace my J and L hoses, and replace power steering lines, for which there is no definitive step-by-step tutorial on here on on Youtube!, but none of it is really critical right now. (It does need a whole new exhaust at some point, but I'm going to hold off on that...) Good luck working on your first Volvo!SlowEp3 wrote:Your post is comforting in that even an amateur hobbyist like myself can handle some jobs on my own.theWIFES_S70 wrote:These cars are very intuitive. You could probably do all the suspension by just taking your time and looking ay how stuff goes on and comes off. There's no overly designed stuff on these cars. (Unlike, say, a Saab...)
I've also been on the lookout for a 9-5 Aero, but they are impossible to find for less than $5000 Canadian.
About that 9-5... stay away... But perhaps you shouldn't listen to me, I have a scrapper coming tomorrow to haul away my gorgeous 9-3 Turbo for $50 bucks...
Retired:
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K
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