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2007 S80 Battery Drain Fuse 37

Everything on the Volvo S80. Sometimes called an "executive car", the S80 was Volvo's top-of-the-line passenger car. P2 platform.
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manitouboat
Posts: 3
Joined: 26 March 2015
Year and Model: S80 2007
Location: USA

2007 S80 Battery Drain Fuse 37

Post by manitouboat »

Unless I pull fuse #37 Injection System under the hood. My battery goes dead with in a day.
If I pull it battery never goes dead. Any ideas?

draser
Posts: 790
Joined: 18 August 2011
Year and Model: 2005 S60 2.5T
Location: Detroit MI
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Post by draser »

I'd test the charging system and battery capacity. How old's the battery?
2005 Volvo S60 2.5T, Zimmerman/Akebono brakes
2012 Honda Accord, EBC slotted rotors

manitouboat
Posts: 3
Joined: 26 March 2015
Year and Model: S80 2007
Location: USA

Post by manitouboat »

New battery. Charging up to par. I 'm absolutely sure that it has something to do with Injection system fuse #37. there is a high pitched whine under the hood after the key shut off. Until I pull the fuse.

jimmy57
Posts: 6694
Joined: 12 November 2010
Year and Model: 2004 V70R GT, et al
Location: Ponder Texas
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Post by jimmy57 »

Close the hood latch on driver's side and lock the doors. Listen again after 4 minutes and see if the noise is gone. Until the network shuts off all modules you could have the TCM pulsing the STH solenoid.
You really need to measure the current draw with an ammeter. You will have to fashion a way to leave battery cable connected initially with an ammeter also in place between ground post and ground cable. After 4 minutes pull the cable leaving only the ammeter leads connecting ground post to ground cable so you can see what the current usage is. If you have access to an accurate inductive amp probe then the battery cable fuss is not needed. The initial current draw key on and in the first minutes after key is switched off are too high for direct amperage measurement as it is usually more than the 10 amps the meter and its leads can handle. Once you see the load then you pull the fuses that are powered as measured using a voltmeter and you should know which circuit is staying live. Your issue could be many things including a faulty module that does not go off when signaled. A door latch (hood and truck too) not having a switch that goes to closed position when shut can also cause high current draw and not always leave a light on as evidence.

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