Major problem, Radiator leak?

Post by **MrAl** » 28 Jun 2016, 06:16

Hello again,

With this car, 1998 v70 FWD no turbo, i got a price on replacement of the radiator.
Radiator 345 dollars (USD)
With 2.5 hours labor, 645 dollars total, 1 year (12 month) warranty.
So total 645 dollars for the job, plus tax.

He also states that "if the lines break" when removing the lines to the transmission, the lines have to be replaced too. Waiting for a price on that, later today.

Sound reasonable to you?
It sounds kind of high to me since rad's on the web are 150 dollars or less and have 24 month warranty.

What do you guys think?

Thanks very much.

Post by **tryingbe** » 28 Jun 2016, 06:23

Life time warranty radiator at Autozone is $180. He's charging you 75% + over the retail cost.

Way overpriced.

Post by **MrAl** » 28 Jun 2016, 07:06

Hello again,

Thank you for the reply. This is getting expensive so i am looking for advice and alternatives.

I have an update here though on the radiator. The radiator itself has a lifetime warrenty, it's the labor that is 1 year. I did not get that info previously i just got the quote of "1 year warranty". This new info just came in a few minutes ago actually along with a price quote on the lines.
The lines are 140 dollars (USD) each, with another 50 for labor. so two comes to close to 380 dollars, but either none or one or both may have to be replaced.

Thanks again, and any other info would be appreciated too.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 28 Jun 2016, 08:08

I've never really heard of bad radiator lines when changing a radiator. Sometimes folks can mess up the connector clamps. Radiators I've bought came with these. I'm thinking this is a way for the installer to try to get some extra $ out of you. If they mention it, then if the line(s) mess up (intentionally or not) then they can charge you more. I would find another installer, personally. I've done these before- a bit of a pain but it's really not that difficult.

PS78 · Post by **PS78** » 28 Jun 2016, 09:08

MrAl, what tryingbe and mij advised is right on the money literally. A good quality radiator can be had for substantially less. My question is did you take your car in to this shop for the estimate or was it quoted over the phone? I'm assuming you had the car in. I'm not sure if you're interested in doing the replacement yourself but you could save a lot of money. Its not the easiest repair but its not too bad either. If you are going to have the replacement done at a shop, find someone else because that price is high, and that line replacement business is questionable. I've never broken any trans lines in the past doing my own rad replacements on a variety of import and domestic vehicles for myself and friends in pa where heavy rust and corrosion are a reality. and I'm just a diy guy.

Post by **tryingbe** » 28 Jun 2016, 09:34

Get out of this shop while you can.

Post by **MrAl** » 28 Jun 2016, 10:16

Hello again,

Thanks for the additional replies.

When i researched this problem myself i came into a problem where when i looked up the radiator replacement i could not determine if it was the right one for the car or not.
The problem was mainly with the connectors, where they have both 'male' and 'female' types. The secondary problem was some came with an 'overflow vent' i think and some did not come with that.

Is there any way to ensure i am getting the right radiator? Can i check the actual connectors on my car somehow to determine if i have male or female connectors? Also, how do i know if it has a 'vent' and i dont even know what that is for really, maybe overflow, but not sure.
I guess i can see this stuff from under the car?

A second estimate was 600 dollars USD plus incidentals like antifreeze.

Thanks again.

Post by **scot850** » 28 Jun 2016, 10:41

The answer is yes we can help you identify the correct radiator. There are many opinions of what are good radiators in the aftermarket world and the opinions are based on the luck each person has had. Personally, I only use Volvo radiators. My view is if they can last as long as they do, then a 2nd one should see the car out. They are also better built than aftermarket ones I have seen with a reinforced upper pipe connection. I had issues with 2 different aftermarket brands one leaked from the join between the end cap and the matrix, the other I had difficulty sealing until I replaced the top hose which had become hard and wouldn't for to the shape of the aftermarket hose connection.

There are several reasons radiators fail, other than age, but the main one is the condition of the engine mounts. In particular the upper torque mount and the mount under the crankshaft pulley on the RH side. These both allow the engine to put more load on the radiator, especially when the hose goes hard with age.

To help us identify the radiator there are a few bits of information we need, but the easiest method is to call the dealer and give them the Vin number and ask for the Volvo part number.

Otherwise, Volvo model : 1998 V70 ? GLT/R/T5/Base? Manual or auto transmission?

From this we can find some info.

The other part that helps is if you look down the back of the radiator closest to the engine. Look at the sides of the radiator, are there 2 pipes coming out of the radiator on the LHS and RHS when looking from the front of the car.

The RHS when looking down if it has 2 pipes it is the automatic transmission cooler pipes
The LHS when looking down means it has an engine oil cooler.

If in doubt take some pictures and add them to here.

Neil.

bugs11 · Post by **bugs11** » 28 Jun 2016, 11:21

FWIW - When I replaced the radiator last summer on my 96 850 Turbo, I also replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses, since I was in there anyway. And that really was the start of my 96 850 Volvo mechanic hobby.

Post by **scot850** » 28 Jun 2016, 12:08

It is not a hobby but a contagious illness!

Neil.