DIY 1998 S70 FRONT Bearings at 180K, an Update

Post by **cn90** » 17 Jul 2016, 08:21

OK,

There are tons of info on how to replace a wheel bearing. Make sure you watch the youtube video by rpsi and search for info in forum (such as front suspension overhaul I wrote a while ago for the torque values).

At 180K miles, my LF bearing was noisy, the RF was not bad yet but I replaced both.

Below are some tips for the advanced DIYers... Newbies will also find these useful...

* I understand some are short on budget (especially the current demographic group that owns these vintage cars), but bearing is a safety issue and is a job you don't want to do twice. A good bearing lasts some 150K-200K. My factory bearing lasted 180K.
* So I use Timken bearing, made in Germany. Bought them on ebay for $90/each.

1. Car in Neutral and use 4-foot pipe to help loosen the axle nut.
- The LF Axle nut came out no problem.
- The RF axle nut was seized (I broke two 1/2-inch breaker bars!), I had to drive to local shop, they unzipped the 36-mm nut in 5 sec for no charge.
So best is to visit local shop to loosen the nut (then hand tighten it to drive home) before the job, your life will be much easier.
- Use antiseize during re-assembly, next time it will be much easier.

2. Find some trick to counter-hold the wrench and use the "2-wrench" trick:

3. The E14 Torx bolts.
- I bought new bolts from Volvo, but if you are careful and methodical, you can re-use the bolts.
- Heat is a MUST! Spray PBlaster etc., then heat the area around the bolt as show to loosen the rust etc.
- When using E14 + breaker bar: MAKE SURE the socket bites completely into the bolt head; if not, you will strip the bolt ---> big headache! Clean the bolt head from dirt, then tap the socket in a bit so it bites completely.
- If you find that you have use a lot of force and the bolt does not not budge, STOP, spray more PBlaster + heat again.
- I was slow and methodical, I save all the 8 bolts. In retrospect, I could have re-used the bolts.

That is all folks, not difficult if you "follow the rules"!

Post by **erikv11** » 17 Jul 2016, 10:53

One nice thing about a bad bearing is it will make noise for quite a while before it goes out. The Volvo factory ones have been good to me, I am still waiting for one to go bad even though I have a few P80 cars at or above 200k miles. So it may be coming soon but I will wait for one to start going bad before I do any replacements.

A great trick for the axle nut is a cheap 1/2 inch electric impact from Harbor Freight. I have done like at least 8 different P80 axle nuts with this tool, all came right off.

Post by **abscate** » 17 Jul 2016, 11:25

I believe the back side 4 wheel bearing bolts are Torque to Yield, which means they should be replaced. Visual inspection is not enough - they are weakened in installation. Most FWB kits come with new bolts.

Post by **sleddriver** » 17 Jul 2016, 12:57

Excellent write-up CN90. Been there, done that on the RF. Volvo dealer sent me the WRONG bearing twice....grrrrrrr. I too broke a breaker bar and made a trip to my indy to loosen it with an air wrench. Rather amazing display of serious, instant torque......he zipped it off like it was loose.

My LR is making noise when hand spun. I need to check all with a stethoscope as I'm over 213,000mi on three of them now.

Post by **cn90** » 17 Jul 2016, 14:56

Here is a long and short of broken breaker bars.

- I do have air tool and a big compressor (20-gallon type), I was not in the mood (you can call this "laziness") to set up the air compressor and tool, thus the "lazy" way with the 4-foot pipe.

- The LFront Axle Nut is the 36-mm type and I do have the 3/4-inch socket + 3/4-inch breaker bar + 4-foot pipe: I stood on the pipe at about 3.5ft area (I weigh 150lb), so at roughly 450 ft*lb (3.5 feet of piping and 150lb) it came off w/o issue.

- The RFront axle nut is the 32-mm type (Volvo dealer installed years ago for the P.O.). For this 32-mm socket, I only have the 1/2-inch type. Again I stood on it and jumped a bit, the breaker bar broke at exactly the area between the 1/2" male end where it meets the socket.
Now at least I know it takes about 450 ft*lb to break a 1/2-inch breaker bar LOL.

- As mentioned previously, if I do this again, I will get out my air tools or drive to the local shop to have them loosen the axle nuts first.

PS: Harbor Freight gave me new breaker bars w/o issues; their hand tools are warranted for life.

Post by **scot850** » 17 Jul 2016, 17:08

Got to love my electric impact driver. So far it has loosened the wheel hub bearings without having to break another 1/2" breaker bar. Now I have a 3/4" breaker bar and socket as a back-up!

Have to replace the drive axles and one wheel bearing this week, so this is a very timely 'How-to'!

Many thanks,

Neil.

Post by **abscate** » 17 Jul 2016, 18:21

Neil...on your 2000 that big nut is a torque to yield, single use M10 bolt. Much easier to move than the pre 1999 axle nut.

Post by **scot850** » 17 Jul 2016, 22:42

Not on the rear though, and I'm currently working on the 850 front axles (or about to!). The previous 98 V70XC nuts on all 4 axles (and some may say behind the steering wheel too!).

Neil.

Post by **abscate** » 18 Jul 2016, 03:41

I forgot you picked up another 1998 , but it doesn't count until it's in your .sig

Post by **mecheng** » 18 Jul 2016, 12:18

The electric impacts are great, they were the only way I could remove the axle nut; breaker bar broke on me too.

I noticed the axle nut has an area where you use a punch to make a depression to lock the nut, you may want to try to undo this before trying to remove the nut. When I did my CV boots, my impact driver overcame this, and on the new nut I re-drifted it.