Intermittent major electrical failure.

hiroshima1320 · Post by **hiroshima1320** » 06 Aug 2016, 13:58

I recently bought a 2002 v70 2.4 turbo. For a little background on the car, it has 223k, automatic, and when I bought it it was not only leaking massive amounts of oil, but also smoking a good bit. It had an oil pressure light on, no power, but the body and interior are in good shape, probably 7/10. I paid $350. The p.o. though it was front crank seal. It was the can seals. The intake cam seal was pushed out. The turbo was toast. Used turbo, new cam seals, new oil pressure sending unit, no lights on, ran good. Drove it home, alternator died. Charged battery, headed back to work the next day. Spit a rod or 2 through the oil pan and block. Installed a used engine. Had to change over every sensor and most of the the electronic parts. Its been running and driving good for about 3 weeks since then. Yesterday it started going strange electrical things. The turn signals, head lights, power windows, wipers, and I'm not sure what else will flash rapidly, then slowly, then rapid again, no consistency. There are 2 relays under the dash clicking at the same speed as the other failures. I have so far cleaned the main power wire ends in the fuse box under the hood, checked the clock spring (took it apart and visually inspected and checked resistance with a multimeter) did the same with the electrical part of the ignition switch, visually inspected the antenna for the key chip, wiggled the wiring under the dash. The only anomaly was on the ignition switch, it would jump from 12 to 11.5 volts on one pin, but it may be jumping more but my meter might not be able to keep up. Maybe a test light on that pin may show more. Any ideas? I'm not about to start throwing parts at this thing. Also yesterday the odometer wasn't lit up. Today it was and the drivers information center wasn't.

hiroshima1320 · Post by **hiroshima1320** » 06 Aug 2016, 15:40

Upon further inspection, I believe the ignition switch is the culprit. I just noticed that the accessory position does not work. I dropped the column cover and put a test light on the back side of the connector. No visible fluctuation. I then noticed that one pin, I believe the purple and white wire lit, but very dim. Multimeter says 4.5-5 volts. There is nothing in the ignition switch that I could see nor can I imagine any reason for the voltage to be stepped down. I put a jumper wire in and the symptoms seem to go away. ~$45 for a cheapo parts store replacement. I'm fairly sure this should solve the problem. None of the bone yards near me that are pull your own parts and are open on Sundays have any cars this new. I guess I'll just have to try the new part. I can find nor think of any other reason for it to be doing what it's doing.

Post by **abscate** » 06 Aug 2016, 18:33

You sure can't have voltage fluctuations on a CanBus car like the 2002 models.

Still you need a budget of about 1200-2000 bucks to put a early P2 on the road reliably.

PCV
Cooling system
Suspension
ETM...are you Bosch or Magnetti Marelli on the throttle body ?

hiroshima1320 · Post by **hiroshima1320** » 08 Aug 2016, 09:37

The throttle body is the magnetti marelli. I didn't do anything with the pcv when I changed the engine. I should have. The car runs good. Other than the current electrical issue, the only other complaints I have are the passenger door module went bad ($325 fix from Volvo) I put a uses one in, but it only rolls the window down from the passenger door. The central locking doesn't work on that door. It also needs the rear bushings on the front control arms.

hiroshima1320 · Post by **hiroshima1320** » 08 Aug 2016, 11:31

Ignition switch seems to have done with the trick.