2001 Vovlo S80 Coil Packs

MH2007 · Post by **MH2007** » 22 Jun 2007, 19:25

I want to thank everyone for the responses on my coolant leak. I purchased a new coolant resevoir cap, had the radiator flushed and no leak, and no check engine light...um, well check engine light was said too soon.

After about a week, a seemingly unrelated light popped on saying the car should be stopped immediately. It was driving extremely rough and it was some type of exhaust code? Taking it to the dealer they said we needed new coil packs and spark plugs. The job would cost $710. Does this sound right?

I just wanted to see if the price seemed normal AND if this was a problem that typically lead to ANOTHER issue...or if after it is fixed, we should be okay?

I'm still keeping my fingers crossed that the warranty will cover it and the car will provide a decent mode of transportation, but as I've done some research I'm begininning to have my doubts.

Thanks in advance to those that respond!

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 22 Jun 2007, 20:02

Could be as the dealer says but the likelihood that all coil packs are bad is very very rare...I would suspect one and not all. You could probably get one off of a wrecked S80 at a junk yard if this is truly your issue. Spark plugs are easy, and both are do-it-yourselfers. Btw, how long has it been since the spark plugs were changed? I would change them first yourself and see if the problem goes away. Dealers seem to always try to make money off of out-of-warranty customers. If of course the warranty covers everything, let them put all new stuff in. Otherwise, don't let them take you to the cleaners.

stevick · Post by **stevick** » 23 Jun 2007, 11:13

I recently had a coil go bad on my 2000 S80. The code was for the specific cylinder misfire [P030x (x=cylinder number, 0=multiple) - read free at Autozone]. Here's a suggestion for a cheap and dirty diagnosis/repair of your problem (assumes car will idle):

1. Buy one cheap spark plug ($1.50)
2. Remove plastic coil cover and start car.
3. Unplug one coil at a time. If you unplug misfiring cylinder, there will be no change in the idling. If you unplug a correctly firing cylinder, it will run even rougher (or possibly quit). Continue for each cylinder until misfiring cylinder is identified. [In case you're concerned about a shock, don't be. Unlike unplugging a spark plug while running (high voltage=shock), this is the low voltage side of the coil (i.e., will not shock you). Trust me.]
4. Replace spark plug for misfiring cylinder to see if it corrects problem - if it does, go for a set of new plugs. If not, continue.
5. Swap the coil in the misfiring cylinder with one that is firing properly. Start engine - it should about the same as before. With engine idling, unplug coil for the previously identified misfiring cylinder. If the engine runs rougher with it unplugged, you have identified the bad coil (the one swapped out from that cylinder - to confirm, unplugging it should result in no change in idle). Replace that coil and you should be good to go. Figure new $45-65, depending on aftermarket vs. dealer OEM, used $??.
6. Replace cover, etc.
If the misfiring doesn't move to the other cylinder when you swap coils, you likely have a more serious problem than a coil or plug - maybe a fuel injector...
(Note: this will cause various additional ignition-trelated trouble codes to be stored, which can easily be cleared with a scantool... or by Autozone's free scantool service, once your repair is complete)

I found and corrected my problem quickly doing this. I hope it can work for you. Good luck!