2000 XC70T AWD BiG Money Burnt; No Resolution oil sludge, short trips

[polskamafia mjl]

Oil Changes: The mechanic tried to explain that synthetic should be used for this
vehicle despite Volvo indicating otherwise. Seems off to me.

Synthetic certainly is recommended for this motor, I think your mechanic is spot on and I'm unaware of Volvo recommending against it, but I don't think that's a huge issue at the moment.

[precopster]

Volvo literature in the owners manual points to viscosities and oil standards as well as change intervals. Choice of synthetic or otherwise is a consumer choice like brand name.

Excessive blow-by as a result of low cylinder compression would provide excessive crankcase pressure. Too much work in this one; replace the motor.

[Vroom]

You purchased the car a year ago. How many miles wee on the car then? How many did you put on it in the year you owned it?
Had the oil been changed in that year?

Sludge develops in these cars by using petroleum based oil, driving short trips, stop and go city driving, hot humid climates and extended change frequencies.

This info along with codes can tell us a lot more about what you are up against. Good Luck regardless

Thanks, FLX!

To answer the above, 124k. Child put a few of thousand on it.

The purpose of the car, aside from dying too soon, was to keep our now 18 year old safe as she accumulated experience miles, hence the Volvo. We live in a small town so there's not many places to go, therefore lots of short trips. On a typical day she'd put, say, 9mi on it going to and fro to school, some days twice that because of activities.

No, we didn't change the oil because of the lack of miles she put on it. After this happened, I began reading how responsive to use the car really is, something we don't appreciate in our other vehicles. They get the same treatment as well, so the one thing I can NOW say is that Frequent Short Trips = More Frequent Oil Changes. We always check oil levels and color so this experience was eye-opening. Yes, the previous owner stuck to traditional oil and it's apparent that our mechanic's advice to change, while sage, is not only too little too late, it probably wouldn't matter much due to the vehicle's age. I'd known of the sludging issue prior to purchase but now I know more from expensive experience.

No codes to offer. The mechanic didn't print them out. I suppose we may still be able to get them, but I think it's too late.

Yeah, the noises were weird. They literally sounded like churning was going on in the turbo. Perhaps it was indicative of perforated seals. No grinding noises.

Note, the car was not doing any of this in between the major service and the last oil change. She'd driven it just over 500mi when we brought it in. From what I understand, when there's sludging service done, after the initial purging of the system, the new oil is run for only 500mi then that's tossed for one last change, then you're good to go. It was upon returning home from the last change is when the car suddenly became symptomatic. Literally, it happened that fast.

That's why I was wondering if we'd been bamboozled. Worse, the 2nd mechanic we asked an opinion said the crankcase had too much oil in it by some 4 US quarts.

[Vroom]

Excessive blow-by as a result of low cylinder compression would provide excessive crankcase pressure. Too much work in this one; replace the motor.

Yep ... that's the drift I'm getting, unfortunately.

Two things factor here: 1) Expense; 2) Child is schooling in the city so she doesn't need it now.

Verdict: I'll probably donate it to National Public Radio. They take these.

[rspi]

If the cylinder compression test is under 125 per cylinder (or any cylinder) the engine needs to be replaced or rebuilt (replacement is usually cheaper).

Checking the oil by using the dip stick will show proper oil level... if you were checking the oil level with the dip stick and did not see an overfill condition, this statement makes no sense.

These Volvo cars are expensive to maintain if you have to pay someone to help you care for them. I never recommend people purchase them unless they like working on cars.

Thought of the day... a 3 year old car with 40,000 miles on it can have a bad, oil sludged up engine.

[sleddriver]

You might try BG109 engine flush. I've used it twice to clean up the oil system after replacing the PCV system. You'll have to buy it from a BG shop/dealer. I paid ~ $10. In an idling hot motor, with the front end pointing up or on jack stands, dump the whole can into the oil opening on top and replace the cap. Increase the rpms to ~ 1500-2000 and hold fast. Leave the hood open. After 15min., shut her down, open the drain plug and leave it for a few hrs or overnight (if you have the time). If applicable, also drain the oil cooler. 109 will cut the oil viscosity to zero so it'll fly out of there like HOT WATER. Don't burn yourself.

Go to WM, buy 6qrts of their 10W-30 "super tech" oil & a filter. Refill and drive it for a couple of hundred miles or so. Then dump that, refill with M1 10W-30HM oil, a MANN/Volvo filter and keep an eye on it.

Check the oil level YOURSELF...regularly, on a level surface.

If the motors' really dirty you'll have to clean it off so new leaks become apparent. Depending upon how bad the oil seals are blown, ATP's AT-205 Re-Seal may stop any other oil leaks. I used it in my badly leaking PS rack and was amazed it actually worked. But there it is. But you also may have to replace them.

If the PCV ports are actually plugged, BG109 won't fix that. You'll have to do that manually. It will clean out everything else the oil touches.

Any mechanic that says you can't/shouldn't use 100% synthetic oil in a Volvo motor is nuts....find yourself one who speaks Swedish...and isn't an idiot.

I'd known of the sludging issue prior to purchase but now I know more from expensive experience.

You're a braver man than I. That's a lot of problem to pay for....

From what I understand, when there's sludging service done......

What "sludging service" was done? By who?

[FLXC90]

As far as compression, when I got my 98, the compression was all over the place, 120, 85, 150, 120 like that. I did a top end treatment with seafoam, waited a couple days and did a second. My compression evened out to 170-175 across the board. It removed all the deposits on the backs of the valves.

So, if you are lucky and it isn't the bottom end that is damaged, there is a cure.

Otherwise, donation is a noble way to go, get her a Honda or Toyota next.

[Vroom]

I'd known of the sludging issue prior to purchase but now I know more from expensive experience.

You're a braver man than I.

Sled, nahhh, foolish is NEVER brave. I was guilty of "shoppers fatigue".
The oil leak did give me pause, but time and fatigue got the better of me.
As was written above earlier, I should've at least changed the oil upon
ownership. Not doing so was stoopid.

I may consider that flush ... what's another few bucks? But if it don't work ...
yup, good things can come from bad.

[sleddriver]

On second thought, I'd leave the hot oil + 109 in the pan rather than immediately drain. If you can leave it several hours or overnight, all the better as the 109 will have more time to dissolve any gell/goo in the pan as the motor slowly cools. Close the hood to retain the heat.

What "sludging service" was done?

[PeteB]

You might try BG109 engine flush. I've used it twice to clean up the oil system after replacing the PCV system. You'll have to buy it from a BG shop/dealer. I paid ~ $10. In an idling hot motor, with the front end pointing up or on jack stands, dump the whole can into the oil opening on top and replace the cap. Increase the rpms to ~ 1500-2000 and hold fast. Leave the hood open. After 15min., shut her down, open the drain plug and leave it for a few hrs or overnight (if you have the time). If applicable, also drain the oil cooler. 109 will cut the oil viscosity to zero so it'll fly out of there like HOT WATER. Don't burn yourself.

Any reason why you chose BG109 over their Quick Clean PN 105?