Steering Rack woes

autoperdu · Post by **autoperdu** » 10 Aug 2016, 12:09

Hello all I own a 2005 volvo xc70 with around 160,000ish miles while on our vacation my rack developed a leak. Long story short got to destination and tracked leak down to the hard lines on the rack itself, specifically the bottom of the 2 hard lines. We tried replacing the rubber o-ring several times, as well as swapping o-rings with the pipe above it (roughly same diameter) all with no luck, still leaking. Finally threw my hands in the air and dealt with this behemoth with no power steering in the mountains of North Carolina. Good Workout.
I am home now and have tried adding a stop leak agent to no avail so I found the part # on vida and ordered the hard lines, now here is my question: do I need to drop the subframe to replace these lines or remove the steering rack altogether? Any pointers or direction would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Autoperdu

Post by **JRL** » 10 Aug 2016, 12:24

Yes, of course

autoperdu · Post by **autoperdu** » 11 Aug 2016, 10:31

Thanks for the reply JRL, just to clarify does that mean I should drop the rack and make repairs in situ or remove the rack from the car. I don't currently have anything specific to hold the engine up while removing the subframe is the reason I was asking.

Post by **vtl** » 11 Aug 2016, 12:17

You need to jack up the engine when lowering subframe. Or get an engine support bar.

While you are there, do yourself a favour and replace rear engine pad.

Post by **oragex** » 11 Aug 2016, 14:59

There are 1 or two nasty bolts that fix the steering rack on the subframe, plan ahead getting these removed (read dremel). While there check the flexible exhaust too, it starts leaking near the exhaust manifold

Post by **vtl** » 11 Aug 2016, 15:07

oragex wrote:There are 1 or two nasty bolts that fix the steering rack on the subframe, plan ahead getting these removed (read dremel).

What was wrong with the bolts in your case? Mine didn't have problems at all. All I use is 6-point impact wrench sockets as they fit tight and don't jump the bolt heads. Also there's a plenty space for a breaker bar or pipe over wrench

I was removing steering rack to lower the rear side of subrame in order to get a 3/8" extension to rear mount's lower bolt - it was literally welded to the mount, I broke four 1/4" extensions, which can squeeze between subframe and antisway bar, before resorting to subrame mess.

autoperdu · Post by **autoperdu** » 11 Aug 2016, 15:31

Vtl, thanks for the advice but have already gone through the fun of replacing that engine mount, also with the two hard lines I recieved a plastic spacer, any ideas where this goes? I don't remember seeing anything like that when I was mucking about last.

autoperdu · Post by **autoperdu** » 30 Aug 2016, 15:51

So I am now looking at getting a rack, probably remanufactured any recommendations? Also do I need to replace the subframe bolts with new? What about the bolt from column to rack? Thanks

Post by **oragex** » 31 Aug 2016, 14:47

Reman racks are a hit or miss. I would rather go with a used original one in good condition and replace the pipes if rusted.

Subframe bolts should be replaced. You can disconnect the column inside the car, a 14mm bolt. The bolts between rack and rear subframe are the worst.

Post by **coflynn** » 09 Sep 2016, 15:00

Might be too late, but it is possible to replace the hard lines in-place. See https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=63143 .