new owner with some questions...

brick_and_motor · Post by **brick_and_motor** » 13 Sep 2016, 13:42

Hi All,

I am purchasing a 1998 V70 GLT, ~140K miles, and this site has already been a tremendous resource in this process. The car appears in decent shape overall but needs a few upkeep items. Off the bat, it is getting 4 new tires, alignment, timing belt and water pump, and ABS module joint solder to fix intermittent speedometer/odometer and ABS light. I also need to look into why the right rear door lock will lock when commanded but won't unlock.

When I test drove the car, I noticed an oil leak and pointed it out to the seller. I did some research on here and it seemed to me to resemble a failing drive axle seal. However, when I talked to the seller the next day, he told me he thought it was a cam seal and was replacing it. Either way I'd decided I wanted the car, so we agreed on a price. I haven't picked up the car yet but I'm not convinced it was the cam seal...but maybe it was.

Anyhow, on top of what I know it needs (listed above) are there other items specific to these cars I should look at? I wrench professionally so I'm not new to working on cars, but this is my first Volvo so still learning the quirks!

Thanks in advance for any advice and look forward to learning much more about these cars!

Post by **tryingbe** » 13 Sep 2016, 14:04

Timing belt interval is 70k.

Volvo owner manuals are free. You should download one.
http://www.volvocars.com/us/own/owner-i ... rs-manuals

brick_and_motor · Post by **brick_and_motor** » 13 Sep 2016, 14:28

tryingbe wrote:Timing belt interval is 70k.

Volvo owner manuals are free. You should download one.
http://www.volvocars.com/us/own/owner-i ... rs-manuals

Thanks for the link!

After doing some more crawling on the site, I guess what I'm going for is "Stage 0."

Post by **erikv11** » 13 Sep 2016, 15:47

brick_and_motor wrote: .. .I also need to look into why the right rear door lock will lock when commanded but won't unlock. ...

This is usually failure of the little thermal switch coupler in the lock mechanism. There are write-ups on here explaining how to pull apart the mechanism and replace that part with a piece of solid copper or similar.

For common problems check out Robert DIY's video on the subject. I haven't actually watched it but his are usually pretty good, a good place to start even for a wrencher like you.

brick_and_motor · Post by **brick_and_motor** » 13 Sep 2016, 19:00

erikv11 wrote:
brick_and_motor wrote: .. .I also need to look into why the right rear door lock will lock when commanded but won't unlock. ...
This is usually failure of the little thermal switch coupler in the lock mechanism. There are write-ups on here explaining how to pull apart the mechanism and replace that part with a piece of solid copper or similar.

Thank you for the insight. Info like that is exactly why I joined this forum.

Now to check out some of those videos... cheers!

Post by **sleddriver** » 15 Sep 2016, 18:46

Wow...a 98 with so few miles! Interesting that......

1. Be sure you get a 4-wheel alignment! The rear is adj. for toe and must be set first before the front.

2. When you do the TB, also replace both the tensioner & idler pulley. Volvo sells these three items together. ~ $130.

3. The door lock electric motors have a little rectangular plate inside that evidently increases resistance over time and is replaced with a piece of flattened solid heavy-gauge copper wire. Recently did all four of my latches....more than once. Had problems finding an adhesive that would stick to the HD polyethylene case material. Hot glue & silicone RTV failed, so I wrapped them with UL-181Bx grade duct tape.

4. RSPI = RobertDIY has a video on pre-buyer check-list. Being a mechanic yourself will serve you well owning one of these old cars!

5. Stage 0 is a good idea.

6. Smoke the vacuum system, motor and gas tank for leaks. Also check those two B/W vacuum check valves up front near the drivers side of the intake manifold. They keep boost out of places it shouldn't go and usually no longer "check" on older cars.

7. PCV system check is mandatory. A latex glove over the oil fill on a hot motor should suck in, not inflate. If the later, pull the oil dipstick out a few inches to relieve the pressure until you can fix it.

8. Highly recommend only 100% synthetic oil in turbo motors. I use M1 10W-30HM here in Tx due to its excellent specs: HTHS @ 150°C = 3.5. A3/B3 & B4; VI = 149. If I drove a lot of hwy miles, I'd probably use something a bit thicker.

9. The repair/maintainence database here is your friend. Lots of great ideas from the braintrust.

brick_and_motor · Post by **brick_and_motor** » 20 Sep 2016, 04:21

Thanks, sleddriver! I appreciate the engine oil recommendation. I was already eyeing Mobil 1 synthetic and it's good to hear a referral. It also appears there's strong support for the MANN filters.

After I got some time to check the car out some more, it looks like I have a bit of a project on my hands. But at $1300, I didn't expect it to be cherry

I am not sure the cam seal replaced by the PO fixed the oil leak. He didn't clean what was there before so it's hard to say for sure, but there is a telltale line around the RMS weep hole. I am going to clean it up and recheck to be sure...but I'm not holding my breath.

Other things:
-t-belt and h20 pump
-upper torque bushing
-tires and alignment (doing those today)
-front spring seats (can wait on that)
-driver door hinge (can also live with for a bit)
-oil dipstick tube o-ring
-PCV (what I assume is causing the oil leak(s) but will verify with the glove test)
-heater core (not currently a problem, but Robert DIY encourages doing this before it's a problem)
-ABS module solder (speedo was intermittent during test drive but has been operational since)

Done by PO:
-plugs
-radiator
-struts
-rear cam seal
-hatch struts
-battery
-evap core
-1 or 2 vacuum lines

Post by **shiloh51933** » 20 Sep 2016, 09:12

The rear cam seals tend to leak on these, if it is the rear cam seals it's fairly easy to replace them but if it's the front cam seals it's much more involved.

brick_and_motor · Post by **brick_and_motor** » 20 Sep 2016, 10:51

Just did the glove test on the oil fill. The glove inflated briefly before the coming loose...guess it's time for a PCV service.

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 20 Sep 2016, 13:32

Another NC member.
Welcome to the forum. I ran a '98 V70 up to 331,000 miles and decided it was time to let it rest. A lot of good information on here.
What part of NC you call home? I may have a working right rear door lock from my dismembered '98.
Shane