[Resolved] 1996 850, Crank+No Start after battery recharge Topic is solved

ToriWhite · Post by **ToriWhite** » 15 Sep 2016, 23:26

To start, I've had a history of bad battery maintainence on my Volvo, and as a result probably hastened my current batteries decline. I now know I need to buy a new battery, but first, my car has to start to drive to the store.
After a week of not driving my Volvo (Finals week for quarter at college), the car did not start. Attempted to jump it with some cheapo ACE $20 cables, engine barely almost sounded like it engaged- and then didn't.
Defeated, I borrowed a very nice battery charger. Charged the battery up very quickly (2 hours.. very suspicious), hooked it up, tried to start it, no dice. Starter barely cranked, probably wouldn't have enough umph to start a lawnmower.
Used the fancy chargers 'recondition' mode, fixed the battery right up. Charged after a normal duration, hooked up and tried it- no dice.
Suspected a flooded engine, tried it after waiting overnight to 'unflood' off a fresh battery, two 'sounds' but no ignition (sounded like something engaged, but whatever it was, it wasn't enough)
Another overnight, fresh battery, throttle all the way down to open engine- nothing but the sad cranking of the starter.
Fuel is getting to the engine as far as I can tell, fuel pump sounded on each turn on, and the fuel line above the engine has juice when I poke the valve in.
Does anyone have any ideas, or exploratory troubleshooting? I'm going to pop out and check the spark plugs tomorrow, and try and check if they're getting juice- only to rule them out though, I seriously doubt that they're to blame.
Could it be my starters not engaging with the clutch right? Alternators down? Worlds worst lawnmower syndrome? I'm very quickly reaching my wits end!!
Thanks for any help you can contribute,
-Tori

Post by **jreed** » 16 Sep 2016, 06:04

It's hard to pinpoint the problem from the description...it sounds like you have tried jump starting from another car and have tried recharging your old battery, neither of which has worked yet.

Would it be possible to try jump starting again with better quality jumper cables?

Post by **tryingbe** » 16 Sep 2016, 06:52

So, now the car cranks but no start? Put oil in the cylinders then try.

volvooh · Post by **volvooh** » 16 Sep 2016, 07:06

It sounds to me like you are not getting enough voltage from your battery to start your car. I think you will need to purchase a new battery, Also, if your battery is bad you are going to stress your alternator.

Post by **erikv11** » 16 Sep 2016, 08:00

If the battery sounds like it is turning the car over well enough, then I would go with what tryingbe said. One teaspoon of oil in each cylinder (for lawnmower syndrome).

If it is still not turning over well enough, check that the connections to the battery are clean. Worse case scenario the cable(s) may be corroding, but start with the connections. Even if you get those clean you may have lingering LMS issues to deal with.

Post by **abscate** » 16 Sep 2016, 08:01

Welcome Tori -

I think you have both things going on - weak battery as well as LMS. Your conditions of prolonged cranking are perfect to cause LMS

You can't charge an automobile battery in 2 hours - that would take about 200 amps of current and would cook it. Its dead, Jim.

ToriWhite · Post by **ToriWhite** » 16 Sep 2016, 08:35

abscate wrote: You can't charge an automobile battery in 2 hours - that would take about 200 amps of current and would cook it. Its dead, Jim.

See I know that was wrong, must be dead cells in there, but after reconditioning it overnight it's been charging at a normal rate & makes the starter crank with the force/speed I'm used to hearing. Despite having proper resting voltage, and the starter sounding right, could it still be bad? Like with it not pumping w/ enough amps?

ToriWhite · Post by **ToriWhite** » 16 Sep 2016, 08:39

jreed wrote:It's hard to pinpoint the problem from the description...it sounds like you have tried jump starting from another car and have tried recharging your old battery, neither of which has worked yet.

Would it be possible to try jump starting again with better quality jumper cables?

Maybe, but the fancy charger I borrowed is saying my battery is up to snuff again- correct voltage and not defecting problems (get this, the charger can give you error codes for your battery!) I still fear I'm working with low amps, but I don't think it's the battery anymore since I've been getting really healthy sounding starter cranking

Post by **erikv11** » 16 Sep 2016, 08:42

If it shows the expected voltage and is turning the car like it should then it's working well enough. It may not hold much charge and therefore still be a problem long term, but that's beside the point as far as getting it started right now. Your thinking here makes sense to me.

I would treat for LMS, then drive the car to the auto parts store and ask them to analyze the charging system with their little gizmo. Don't take the employee's analysis too verbatim, like don't make a decision on the spot based on what they say, but their equipment can give pretty useful information. See what it says.

ToriWhite · Post by **ToriWhite** » 16 Sep 2016, 08:46

erikv11 wrote:If it is still not turning over well enough, check that the connections to the battery are clean. Worse case scenario the cable(s) may be corroding, but start with the connections. Even if you get those clean you may have lingering LMS issues to deal with.

Whenever I take the battery in and out, I'm always able to tighten the (red? Positive?) terminal clamp down hard enough that I can't move it with my fingers, but after tightening the other clamp, I can still slightly rotate it if I push on it. I'll give my battery a corrosion cleaning and report back, but could it be I messed up my clamp, or is a snug connection good enough? I mean it's still got enough surface area touching... :/