new owner with some questions...

[brick_and_motor]

Another NC member.
Welcome to the forum. I ran a '98 V70 up to 331,000 miles and decided it was time to let it rest. A lot of good information on here.
What part of NC you call home? I may have a working right rear door lock from my dismembered '98.
Shane

Thanks! I live in Orange County, so not a bad hike from most places in the state. My V70 appears to be local, as well, with zero rust or corroded hardware.

Interestingly enough, my V70 came with an extra left rear door complete with glass, window motor, regulator and lock assembly. I imagine they are the same left and right?

[obayha]

Not sure on the lock assembly, as to interchange.
I do know they are fun to work with.
Shane

[erikv11]

Left and right are different parts. They are physically mirrored but asymmetrical so they don't swap across.

[cn90]

Volvo keeps changing their tune over the years, hydraulic system TB is every 70K but to me that is overkill.
Mechanical tensioner 105K (the mechanical tensioner is a worse system when compared with hydraulic tensioner)...go figure.

To me, the 1998 S70: it is safe to replace the TB every 90K-100K.

At 140K:
1. PCV as you mentioned, I posted a mod using "heater hose", it is in the archive.
2. TB, Serp Belt, WP and all that jazz, I also posted a DIY in the archive.
3. Oil leak: spray it with engine cleaner and rinse it.
Then monitor the leak. The diagnosis needs to be accurate as most oil seals are not easy job.
If you replace the oil seal, then stick to Volvo or Corteco brand.

You will like the car, it will easily lasts 300K, if well cared for.

[brick_and_motor]

Volvo keeps changing their tune over the years, hydraulic system TB is every 70K but to me that is overkill.
Mechanical tensioner 105K (the mechanical tensioner is a worse system when compared with hydraulic tensioner)...go figure.

To me, the 1998 S70: it is safe to replace the TB every 90K-100K.

At 140K:
1. PCV as you mentioned, I posted a mod using "heater hose", it is in the archive.
2. TB, Serp Belt, WP and all that jazz, I also posted a DIY in the archive.
3. Oil leak: spray it with engine cleaner and rinse it.
Then monitor the leak. The diagnosis needs to be accurate as most oil seals are not easy job.
If you replace the oil seal, then stick to Volvo or Corteco brand.

You will like the car, it will easily lasts 300K, if well cared for.

I pulled the timing cover on Sunday (checking to see if it was hydraulic or mechanical because serial number sticker was gone) and it is a GMB so I figure it has been replaced once before. No telling how long ago the belt was done. The PO bought the car with 98K on it in early 2007 and he said the TB was done before he bought it. So with 9 years on the current belt, it's probably due for one regardless of mileage. Got the full kit with pump, seals and serp belt coming from FCP. Also ordered the PCV setup they offer.

Last night when I did the tires and upper motor mount, looked around at the oil leak areas before spraying degreaser and wiping it all down. The biggest accumulations looked to be coming from around the turbo and in the lower front near the oil trap is. On the back side, the oil had spread to cover the area around the driver side axle seal and there was some near the RMS weep hole.

Another interesting thing to note, I heard a pronounced whine a few seconds after starting my car last night. It sounded like it was coming from around the intake manifold. I touched my hand to the air intake to feel for vibration and it went away. After I got home, I was browsing the forum for PCV info and saw reference to this noise as PCV/vacuum related. Hoping to get some time to knock the t-belt and PCV out this weekend/next week.

[sleddriver]

Be careful of which kit you order from FCP as the part quality can widely vary. It's best to stick with OEM parts regarding the TB and the associated parts.

Re: the PCV. Note the hard plastic line with a 90-deg bend has a history of cracking inside the foam tubing, rendering the system ineffective and leaving you with a large vacuum leak right at the turbo inlet, downstream of the MAF sensor, meaning the leak is unmetered. Really bad place for a leak. CN90 uses a flexible hose and Robert replaces this line with aluminum or copper. I made a post around early June where I discovered my replaced line had cracked just below the distributer. Rather aggravating to say the least......

Also when doing this job, it is critical to actually inspect and clean all of the ports, rather than just replace parts. More than a few beginners have made this mistake. Though mine were open, I brushed the engine ports shiny with a brass 12-ga. wire brush. Works great. Ditto for the nipple on the intake pipe (PTC?..can't recall the official term). A .22 cal brush will work there or a drill bit in a pinch. Pipe cleaner can also be used.

Rear camshaft seal leaks will make a mess on that side and down below & aft. Clean thoroughly and keep an eye on it. I rinse degreaser off using ~ 150 deg F hot water in a pump up sprayer. Much better than cold tap water at rinsing off oil. Sudsy ammonia also works well for this: It's cheap, alkaline enough to dissolve fats, oil & grease used straight, and every grocery store carries it. Also excels at removing dead bugs from the windshield, outside mirror backs, front bumper and A/C condenser. Dilute appropriately.

[cn90]

1+,

Timing Belt is tricky business!
- The TB itself: Conti or Volvo only, do not use Gates.
- Pulleys x2: INA.
- Tensioner: at 140K, you can re-use it. It should last 200K.
- WP: Aisin is what I use, it costs a tiny more than HEPU.
HEPU is good too, but I prefer Aisin.

[brick_and_motor]

Be careful of which kit you order from FCP as the part quality can widely vary. It's best to stick with OEM parts regarding the TB and the associated parts.

Re: the PCV. Note the hard plastic line with a 90-deg bend has a history of cracking inside the foam tubing, rendering the system ineffective and leaving you with a large vacuum leak right at the turbo inlet, downstream of the MAF sensor, meaning the leak is unmetered. Really bad place for a leak. CN90 uses a flexible hose and Robert replaces this line with aluminum or copper. I made a post around early June where I discovered my replaced line had cracked just below the distributer. Rather aggravating to say the least......

Also when doing this job, it is critical to actually inspect and clean all of the ports, rather than just replace parts. More than a few beginners have made this mistake. Though mine were open, I brushed the engine ports shiny with a brass 12-ga. wire brush. Works great. Ditto for the nipple on the intake pipe (PTC?..can't recall the official term). A .22 cal brush will work there or a drill bit in a pinch. Pipe cleaner can also be used.

Rear camshaft seal leaks will make a mess on that side and down below & aft. Clean thoroughly and keep an eye on it. I rinse degreaser off using ~ 150 deg F hot water in a pump up sprayer. Much better than cold tap water at rinsing off oil. Sudsy ammonia also works well for this: It's cheap, alkaline enough to dissolve fats, oil & grease used straight, and every grocery store carries it. Also excels at removing dead bugs from the windshield, outside mirror backs, front bumper and A/C condenser. Dilute appropriately.

I really appreciate all this info! The PCV kit I ordered from FCP is the 'Genuine Volvo' one with all the pieces. The TB kit is this one: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... tbkit252wp

Thanks especially for the PCV cleaning tips. I'll make sure they are good and crud free before re-installing. Any thoughts on a shot of sea foam before undertaking the PCV repair? Would that do much of anything to help the cleaning process?

[kcodyjr]

I've done seafoam in a 97 LPT and two 96 NAs. It seemed to have positive effect on throttle response and torque, and the engine just seemed freer revving. Others will say it doesn't do squat, and they have a point; butt-dyno is notoriously prone to confirmation bias.

I put the 1/3 in the tank and ran it for a few minutes, sucked the 1/3 into the intake, let it sit 15-20, start it up and let it burn off, then put it in the oil and drive 20 miles, then change it immediately.

I'd say doing that right before a PCV job can't hurt, but we'd be hoping for vapors in the crankcase to get into the PCV system, and I don't see it being strong enough to loosen the crud in the ports, and besides, the PCV system will be blocked or sucking air, hence replacing it.

Change the oil AFTER cleaning the PCV ports in the engine block, in the hopes that any schmegma that falls into the block will drain out with the oil. I can see having solvent in the oil as being helpful for this, at least.

I'll be doing this to the 97 LPT again soon as part of a PCV and tune up effort.

[sleddriver]

I really appreciate all this info! The PCV kit I ordered from FCP is the 'Genuine Volvo' one with all the pieces. The TB kit is this one: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... tbkit252wp

Thanks especially for the PCV cleaning tips. I'll make sure they are good and crud free before re-installing. Any thoughts on a shot of sea foam before undertaking the PCV repair? Would that do much of anything to help the cleaning process?

Your TB kit uses Elring cam/crank seals instead of OEM or Corteco. The former might last, or may not. They live a hard life surrounded-on-all-sides by hot metal. Your garage floor will let you know....

I've never used Seafoam. Not a believer. It won't clean the PCV if clogged. Actually nothing will except for manual scrubbing. 100% synthetic oil will prevent it from ever clogging. I can say that after owning the sled for 18 years now and only using 100% synthetic oil.

If you want to clean out where-ever oil touches, then I'd recommend BG-109 engine flush. Delay draining it after circulation to give it time to dissolve any dissolveables in the pan. Go with a cheap 10w-30 dino oil and new Mann filter for a few hundred miles, then dump that and refill with 100% syn and another new Mann filter.

When you pull the intake, you'll be able to put eyeballs on all intake valves. For combustion chamber cleaning, I mostly use Redline Si-1. If you're an indy, you can get BG-44k cheaper than I. I'll soon be doing their intake/CC clean using their tank + cleaner after replacing all injector seals & screens & back-flushing. Wish I had a way to see inside the CC for a good before/after comparison. Gumout Regane Hi-Mileage is another good one. Only that specific gumout product though.