2004 XC 70 Timing issues

[jonesg]

Seafoam, sprayed directly into cyl's and left to soak will dissolve carbon and smoke like crazy when engine is run to clear it.
Worked a charm in my 150 HP 6 cyl Johnsom outboard.

Add to cyl, let soak 15 mins, then blast out with plugs removed before firing it up.

[fixer333]

Seafoam is mostly oil, thats why it smokes. It does not dissolve carbon. Any liquid including seafoam can ruin/take years off your cat and 02 sensors. MSDS sheet for seafoam: http://seafoamsales.com/wp-content/uplo ... g_2016.pdf
Its just oil and alcohol.

[jonesg]

From the MSDS, "exact composition of above listed chemicals omitted are withheld as trade secret".
Unless you're privy to their trade secrets, 95% of the contents are unknown.

And it does dissolve carbon.

[abscate]

Borescope it and see if you have a bent valve stuck Down in it's guide. The mark is not TDC, so if you have interference at the mark, the head needs to come off.

[chrism]

"...Borescope it and see if you have a bent valve stuck Down in it's guide...."

Crankycar, when you inserted the borescope, were you actually able to get a good look back up at the valves? Also, did you see any valve marks in the piston carbon, or were there marks from the dial indicator, etc. that would be confusing?

It sounds like you may be able to eliminate the interference by sliding the timing enough teeth one way or the other. Great! But that still doesn't explain why you are not getting interference consistently across all five cylinders? And is it PROPERLY timed when you slid the timing far enough to eliminate the interference?

If you can indeed find a cam/crank relationship where there is NO interference, go ahead and tension the belt and run a compression check at all five cylinders. Even if it isn't timed exactly right (to the point you don't get full compression) you may still get a large variance on one or two cylinders, indicating a problem like a bent valve. Lubricate the cylinder walls a bit to reduce ring seal variance.

When this is all over you will be the Volvo engine expert

[crankycar]

Yes I agree with you fixer, I have rebuilt dozens of diesels from natural aspirated to turbo, big and little horsepower, never seen any snake oil that we dipped it into work, my only experience was to have the stuff fall off a 454 chev pistons that I had stripped from a eng. and sprayed with some sort of CRC to prevent corrosion that I thought might happen as I parked the suburban out in the snow, as it was in a heavy duty shop that we needed the bay, when I got back to it they just rubbed clean, even the ring lands were soft, never been able to do it again, usually put in liner kit though, just know we didn't have many engines wear out, just fail because of 1- no oil changes 2- cheap oil 3-faulty air intake systems, even had one with 800 hrs go just by having a loose clamp on a 6 inch inlet before the turbo, so much grinding compound and we scrapped that whoke eng, lucky for customer it was warranty after a full over haul,so I always change oil lots, only one thing more expensive than oil or grease is no oil or grease..my duramax does't even get black at 6k intervals with over 150k on it. don't even buy syns. as I have sampled enough to see no need to pay extra, just change it often..

[fixer333]

From the MSDS, "exact composition of above listed chemicals omitted are withheld as trade secret".
Unless you're privy to their trade secrets, 95% of the contents are unknown.

And it does dissolve carbon.

Here is the full MSDS before they decided to hide the magical ingredients.
http://www.sueschauls.com/Seafoam_motor_treatment.pdf
40-60%- Lite oil.... this is why it smokes.
25-35%- Naphtha.... I have used naphtha for years as a mild degreaser for aircraft engines , it does not dissolve carbon.
10-20%- IPA - alcohol. Adding water to a running engine will do the same thing , remove carbon by mechanical action.
By all means use away.

[abscate]

Trade secret LOL. With a mass spec you can determine the comp of a mix like this in about 10 minutes

[fixer333]

Ok, I pulled my plugs and checked the position of each piston in relation to the crank mark. When the crank cog mark lines up with the pointer ,# 1 piston is at top dead center( compression stroke) , # 2 is bottom dead center, #3 close to bottom dead center, #4 close to top dead center, #5 middle of stroke( I was as exact as I could be, used an extension with tape marks). So we have been working under some bad info. I posted that video and have heard repeatedly that it was the case.The best guess that I have, is that in the video, as he was turning the cams the valves were moving the #1 piston just enough to clear the valves.( if he had removed the timing belt and had the crank in the standard position for R and R'ing the belt)

[crankycar]

That is not what I got, used dial indicator, so I know where the mid point was on peak, and with the rock, I got 1.5 after what the mark showed why the variance, did you check the casting line toward the harmonic balancer from the cogs, mine is lined up with the valley so to speak between the 2 notched hills, but we may have differing marks on the oil pump as I see some only have a raised mark, I have this sort of deformed upside down u and on the left hand side is another raised mark, are you the same, got it running today, but not for long as I drained the oil before starting and then only ran it for less than a minute, some of the snake oil I used was kitchen pot cleaned, safe on aluminum, as that is what we use on exhaust recirclator coolers, as it works well, so the next thing is to pull the pan as I am sure there is loose crud down there and don't want to plug the suction screen, as it already showed crud in the filter canister, so not taking chances, used a solvent gun to wash the top stuff down and the cyls out,now just wish I would of taken a pic of the coil layout, having a tough time getting the wires to lay back into place, shows my age, just don't grab the phone and take a pic yet, do you have a undisturbed top end, maybe you could email me a pic??