2004 XC 70 Timing issues

fixer333 · Post by **fixer333** » 22 Sep 2016, 23:40

Again I am assuming your engine is set up like mine, it may not be. Mine is a 2007 cx70 with the B5254T2 engine. At the very least our crank timing marks sound different. My crank timing mark is on the harmonic balancer side of the timing belt cog. I just got through doing a lot of work on mine, including changing the timing belt, and the car runs good. In order to really see my crank timing mark I had to remove my balancer and then I used a straight edge ruler from the mark(its actually a bump with a line in it) to the pointer on the oil pump, to make sure they were lined up perfectly. The mark on my oil pump looks roughly like a backwards S layed on its side with the bottom of the S acting as the pointer. When the crank marks are lined up my #1 piston(one closest to the timing belt) is at top dead center on the compression stroke and both marks on the cams line up with the top timing cover and there is 18 belt teeth between the two cam gears.

fixer333 · Post by **fixer333** » 23 Sep 2016, 09:44

Go to the 4th post in this thread , the one by chrism. Click on the link at the bottom, at that page click on the CVVT Hub PDF, now go to the bottom of page 3. The picture on the right is what I have and how I set my crank. This was the first time I had worked on one of these engines , so wanted to see what was going on down there , so I removed my balancer , got down there and took a good look. I used a small machinist ruler to go from the mark on the outside of the crank cog to the oil pump pointer( its easy to be off with the space between them).I never could see the small notches in the engine side of the cog teeth.

Post by **F250** » 23 Sep 2016, 10:04

I have two tools available which helped me find the two tiny backside notches on the gear teeth. The first is a borescope, and the second is a long pick tool with a bent tip on one end. I would use the pick tool to feel the back edge of the teeth, and could easily feel when there was a little notch on that back edge. Then, I use the borescope to verify proper "straddling" of the two teeth across the molded timing line mark on the housing behind the teeth.

What also helped tremendously was a tiny paint mark I put on the bottom of the crank gear the first time I got it all lined up perfectly, and that mark corresponded to another small paint mark I put on a particular spot on the frame or subframe assembly (you can choose your own location for these spots which makes sense to you). This gave me a rough guide for alignment so I could crank my hand rotations without having to check the teeth until I got it really close, and then I could just make tiny adjustments until the marks straddled the alignment mark.

fixer333 · Post by **fixer333** » 23 Sep 2016, 11:18

F250 wrote:I have two tools available which helped me find the two tiny backside notches on the gear teeth. The first is a borescope, and the second is a long pick tool with a bent tip on one end. I would use the pick tool to feel the back edge of the teeth, and could easily feel when there was a little notch on that back edge. Then, I use the borescope to verify proper "straddling" of the two teeth across the molded timing line mark on the housing behind the teeth.

What also helped tremendously was a tiny paint mark I put on the bottom of the crank gear the first time I got it all lined up perfectly, and that mark corresponded to another small paint mark I put on a particular spot on the frame or subframe assembly (you can choose your own location for these spots which makes sense to you). This gave me a rough guide for alignment so I could crank my hand rotations without having to check the teeth until I got it really close, and then I could just make tiny adjustments until the marks straddled the alignment mark.

Thanks for that I will look more closely next time for the notches( with a pick), I cleaned the area and looked and looked but could not see them. My eyes are not great anymore.

crankycar · Post by **crankycar** » 26 Sep 2016, 18:44

It appears at we have the same marks as in the PDF you recommended, I will go thru that, I too took the balancer off after I moved the mark one tooth clockwise from what the mark shows to be able to get it to turn over, Valves and crank, will reread the whole PDF and see what if anything I learn, just got back from a weekend playing on a big excavator, took me back to my West Coast logging days, no back to work, will keep you posted..

crankycar · Post by **crankycar** » 26 Sep 2016, 18:47

Interested to see what the oil pan looks like, got sandlike stuff out of the filter from my snake oils to clean varnish etc, so don't want to take a chance, just run it twice for a few minutes..

Post by **F250** » 27 Sep 2016, 11:56

Another very strong engine flush/cleaner I've seen a number of people speak very highly about is KREEN by Kano Labs, and it can be added to either the gas or engine oil side of the block.

crankycar · Post by **crankycar** » 27 Sep 2016, 19:49

The only thing that has touched the varnish that was in the valve tower/oil pan is old style oven cleaner, Easy Off, I used to work in a eng shop, the eng, were diesels, used to be the overhaul guy, did 100s, so I have seen my share, the biggest chore was if a guy wanted a ring job was cleaning ring lands, we couldn't tank those, we used something that was like lye it came in a barrel, not positive, I just tried painters "gun wash" that stuff even cuts all the dried paint of any composition, but didn't touch the varnish, only got a bit of color when I rubbed it, so I sprayed oven cleaner on the stuff, only the drain for the crank vent drain that had hard carbon like stuff did I have to rub and it went soft too, so I will spay some up in the block and varsol it down and change oil after a couple of Hrs, will check to see why one cant use diesel oil as a cleaner agent oil, as nothing gets more severe service than a diesel in construction and freight trucks, so what can it hurt, will check the oil specs and see what lacks, I took training in lubes so I know what to look for, so will let you know.. the varnished parts should show some form of softening the varnish but so far nothing has worked even a bit, not sure what the varnish was created by, syn. or regular my Duramax has no varnish and doesn't even get black at change time all I ever run was Delo 400 my Jetta TDI I used oven cleaner in the egr cooler and that is what got me using it on "crankycar"

fixer333 · Post by **fixer333** » 27 Sep 2016, 20:43

They make several cleaners that are dilute lye solutions that you can buy at the auto parts stores ( purple power is one). I have used full strength oven cleaner , but only on stainless exhaust parts. Even the dilute stuff from the auto parts stores will eat the crap out of aluminum if left on for more than a couple of hours.

crankycar · Post by **crankycar** » 27 Sep 2016, 21:30

oddly the aluminum is still shiny, didn't need to leave it on even 5 minutes, it foamed brown almost immediately, erosion is why we didn't tank aluminum eng parts, works for me but I use caution.

2004 XC 70 Timing issues

Re: 2004 XC 70 Timing issues