98 V79 NA front end vibration (control arms replaced) Topic is solved

[98v70dad]

Based on that logic, by all means, replace the control arms.

I'd choose only Lemforder, either from FCP or as a used original part from Erie, but I've not heard complaints about the Meyle HD ones.

Do not under any circumstance use a cut-rate generic aftermarket control arm. Do not use different brands on each side, either.

Its at least $100 to get a diagnosis which goes toward the repair. $100 and hour in labor and marked up part values. I would guess the installed control arm would cost me $350 -$400 and I would end up with the Meyle parts. I'd rather pay the money ($200 or so) for the Lemforders and put them in myself - they aren't that difficult.

Don't get me wrong, I like my Indy mechanic and he has to make a living, but I can do the job much cheaper and I have control of the part quality (Lemforder) used. Also, while my car is in his shop I have no way to get to my job 37 miles away.

[98v70dad]

Here's another thought. When my daughter was driving this car (for four years) she ran the front end into curbs quite a bit. When the plastic was scraping against concrete that was her cue to stop driving. The black shroud/air dam that goes under the car and the front bumper are damaged enough that the spot(s) in the front that are supposed to clamp them together no longer really exists. So the black plastic shroud just hangs from the clips on the left and right sides (10 mm bolts). The shroud rocks on those bolts and is capable of moving up and down in the front maybe 1.5 inches. It takes nearly no effort or force to oscillate that part up and down.

It occurred to me today that maybe at higher speeds that shroud is fluttering in the air stream and causing my vibration issue or at least adding another component to it. Has anyone ever had an issue with that part fluttering if its damaged?

[beigg]

I dont know what they hit but a month later I noted the torn boot on the drivers side axle. On the passenger side I don't know if it hit anything but maybe it hit that long axle long enough to bend it a bit.

Thoughts?

Did you replace the entire axle with a good non compromised axle assembly?

No, not yet. Its on my list of possibilities.

Why wait for the worst climate conditions to catch you and the repair at the most vulnerable moment?

[98v70dad]

Did you replace the entire axle with a good non compromised axle assembly?

No, not yet. Its on my list of possibilities.

Why wait for the worst climate conditions to catch you and the repair at the most vulnerable moment?

Well, I live in Atlanta GA and the worst climate of the year was a few weeks ago. Winter here is the best time to work
on a car.

The Volvo isn't my only project. I've got a screened porch to finish for a friend. A plumbing project in the bathroom that I did a temporary repair on with a piece of 5/8 heater hose. A deck that needs a new foundation A 50 foot long retaining wall along the house that needs to be replaced and on and on. The Volvo and the vibration is a minor problem and I'll fix it when I feel I have a good idea of what's wrong. I got a couple of axles from the salvage pick and pull. They need at least a minor overhaul before I would put them on my car ... That's another project.

[kcodyjr]

A flapping air dam, or even a flapping body panel, might make the car shake particularly at highway speed, but it wouldn't transmit into the steering wheel. You'd feel it in your butt and feet.

Finding some way to pin it up wouldn't be a bad idea. Maybe using a drill and a pop-rivet gun.

[98v70dad]

A flapping air dam, or even a flapping body panel, might make the car shake particularly at highway speed, but it wouldn't transmit into the steering wheel. You'd feel it in your butt and feet.

Finding some way to pin it up wouldn't be a bad idea. Maybe using a drill and a pop-rivet gun.

I'm not saying I disagree with you but that air dam shroud bolts to the subframe I think and that steering rack is also bolted to the subframe. If the subframe bushings are worn out it seems at least theoretically possible that some oscillation would transfer. The loads on anything moving through a 70 mph wind stream are surprisingly high. All of the mattresses and ladders you see on the side of the road are a testament to that.

I agree that its not likely the source but I'm going to take that shroud off Saturday and drive up and down the highway to see if it makes any difference.

In my previous posts I said I can feel this in the steering wheel which is true. I can feel it but it isn't very much....very subtle. I can also feel it in the accelerator pedal and the floor pan. I think I've mentioned before that there are probably multiple sources of vibration in an 18 year old car.

My goal is for the V70 to drive like a new car (without spending a lot of money) which is somewhat ambitious, in my opinion, for something this old. I think I'm about 80% there.

[sleddriver]

It occurred to me today that maybe at higher speeds that shroud is fluttering in the air stream and causing my vibration issue or at least adding another component to it. Has anyone ever had an issue with that part fluttering if its damaged?

It might. Mine still clips into place to the air dam, however the rear plastic tab broke off. I added a new one using some metal mesh from a drywall repair kit. Quite stout. I also used this to repair both port & starboard ends. It's held up well.

I've been experimenting a bit with "plastic welding" to fix these problems.

[sleddriver]

Well, I live in Atlanta GA and the worst climate of the year was a few weeks ago. Winter here is the best time to work
on a car.

+10! It's actually cooled off here a bit! May even be able to sleep with the windows open to air out the house! "Winter" is the best time to do EVERYTHING outdoors here with the HEAT + mosquitoes gone.

The Volvo isn't my only project. I've got a screened porch to finish for a friend. A plumbing project in the bathroom that I did a temporary repair on with a piece of 5/8 heater hose. A deck that needs a new foundation A 50 foot long retaining wall along the house that needs to be replaced and on and on.

Amen. Like I had nothing else to do/fix/work on/repair all those months of car work. At least the garage, woodworking, yard, house projects will be done in cooler weather and all the sled work is in the rear-view mirror.

[sleddriver]

In my previous posts I said I can feel this in the steering wheel which is true. I can feel it but it isn't very much....very subtle. I can also feel it in the accelerator pedal and the floor pan. I think I've mentioned before that there are probably multiple sources of vibration in an 18 year old car.

My goal is for the V70 to drive like a new car (without spending a lot of money) which is somewhat ambitious, in my opinion, for something this old. I think I'm about 80% there.

Sounds (and feels) very familiar: ".....very subtle". In my front, might be axles. Tripod bearings (inner CVJ) might be worn out. No clicks or such, but it is a wear area and subject to lots of torque. Would be helpful to have someone else drive it.

Rear: Something's going on back there in mine. Something's "wiggling", vibrating. I can feel it in my seat and chassis. It causes the contents inside in the back to vibrate too. Very short, high amplitude wiggles/jitters. Also causes the RR upright seat back latch to rattle. I know the LR wheel bearing is noisy. Haven't checked the RR. Further, any rubber links, bushings, etc. are now 19yrs old and hard/worn/rotted/etc. Frankly don't know much about the rear suspension...too much up front keeping me busy this year and last.

It needs to all "settle down" though. Be less "nervous" feeling. Calm down. Those are the words that come to mind. The thought occured to me that if I put ~ 50#'s back there, across the axles in the rear, it would settle down the jiggles.

Not sure if "glass-smooth" is possible anymore. I recall my indy said even an out-of-round tire will balance, but it's still out-of-round. The BF Goodrich tires don't ride as smooth as the previous Michelins. However, they were $90/ea rather than $145 too. When I check the rear wheel bearings, I'll spin the tires and look for high spots. Might even be able to measure run-out with a simple jig.

[kcodyjr]

Feeling "twitchy" or "squirrely" on the highway is characteristic of bad rear bushings.