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96 855 Turbo Smoking alternator

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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JimBee
Posts: 1915
Joined: 9 December 2008
Year and Model: 93 and 2 96 850's
Location: Minneapolis
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Re: 96 855 Turbo Smoking alternator

Post by JimBee »

@oragex: I wondered about that, too, but no lines are leaking, everything looks dry.

I had the alternator tested and the windings, stator, etc all fried.
The tech at B&M company in North Minneapolis had what I needed in a brand-new looking rebuilt Bosch for $139+tx. Before I installed it, I pulled the cover to check it out, looks like everything is brand new and Bosch brand.

Interestingly, my toasted unit was not the one spec'd for the '96 turbo. The tech looked it up, it was spec'd for a '95 850 and although it was rated at 14 v. there's something about the "feedback" switch that makes a difference. I've had that installed for probably 5 years and other than finally burning up, it seemed to work fine.
Anyway, B&M had the right one. Comes with a 2 year warranty. Should be good for a while.
BTW If he rebuilds one that's still useable, the price is the same.

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sleddriver
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Year and Model: 1998 V70 T5
Location: Tx
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Post by sleddriver »

Best to test before installation!

"Feedback switch"? Please elaborate.
1998 V70 T5 226,808 miles. Original Owner.
M1 10W-30 HM

JimBee
Posts: 1915
Joined: 9 December 2008
Year and Model: 93 and 2 96 850's
Location: Minneapolis
Has thanked: 25 times
Been thanked: 42 times

Post by JimBee »

I'm not sure how the feedback switch works, but it has something to do with the regulator and holding the battery at the right voltage. I think rspi or erik explained this in a post. The tech at the rebuilder showed me the spec manual and the two different regulator numbers for the 95 and 96.

BTW I pulled the ECU case to get more room in that area and it was a lot easier. Since most of the bolts around the p.s. pump need to come off anyway, with the ecu box removed it was simple to pull the two remaining bolts (through the pulley holes) that fasten the p.s. pump.With that and its hoses out of the way, my large 1/2" ratchet easily fit down alongside the alternator to remove the bottom alternator bolt. Between removal and installation of the reman and driving across town, testing and putting it all back together I still spent the afternoon on it. But overall it went pretty smoothly and no skinned knuckles.

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