2004 XC 70 Timing issues

[F250]

Any progress over the weekend?

[crankycar]

At this stage I am at, removed the oil pan as I knew there was grit washed down from the valve area as I washed the crud down that was under top cover, and I dumped lots of stuff down to test/try and loosen the varnish and PVC grit, the drain passage to the pan from the PVC was quite dirty/semi blocked, I saw in another thread that it was important to remove pan, so I did that as I plan to clean the PVC shortly, so now the pan is back on and waiting for the anaerobic to set up before starting, I know that I will be changing oil much sooner than the Volvo recommended intervals, as I have never seen such extended oil changes, and the ONLY thing more expensive than oil changes is NO oil changes, and those length of changes are little wonder the engines are dirty, seeing every picture on sites that show engine internals show varnish, I have rebuilt 100s of engines Gas and Diesel and knew who serviced regularly, just by the gunk in engines, will do some oil sampling after I get the gunk rinsed out, several oil changes at 1000 mile intervals 1st. oil is cheap compared to seeing a salesman every few years, I have never got rid of a car before it was plumb wore/rusted out, and have not ever had engines wear out 1st, but this car may be a 1st, I got it abused, oil changes lacking..

[F250]

Thanks for the update, crankycar.

When I pulled the pan on my daughter's S60, there was varnish, but not excessive for 166K miles. The PCV port (rectangular vertical one from the pan upwards) was clear at the bottom, but completely crusted over at the very top right before it transitioned to the round horizontal port which goes from the PCV connection inwards. That horizontal port was much more crusted, but not completely blocked. The blockage was right below that horizontal port.

Consequently, I believe it would haave been better to remove the intake header and PCV canister to get that horizontal port cleaned before re-mounting your pan, but you are where you are at the moment. Worst case is that the horizontal port is really crudded up, and that the cleaning effort may cause some of that crud to drop into the pan, but your filter should keep it from being a real issue down the road.

[crankycar]

I have no back pressure in oil fill cap area, needed and wanted to check crud down under after my snake oils in top end, now I still have a code P0016, so will drive the car some to flush oil reservoir, and clean up combustion chambers, still have it timed 1 tooth off, as that is the only place I could get it to turn over by hand, runs real well though, not sure what I will find, will try to retime and see if it will turn over at factory marks this time, will snoop around and see if there is a way to test sensors, does anyone know of a test procedure, not the kink of mechanic that trows parts at car to see what sticks..