Accident in my '98 V70

Post by **scot850** » 15 Oct 2016, 19:42

The reason I am warning of the slam panel, is that it has 3 metal brackets along the middle holding the slam panel to the front bumper. If the bumper has been pushed back then it may have cracked or broken the mounting points on the slam panel and the backs of the headlight units.

Also I stand with the front RH wheel looking like the bottom of the wheel is way too far in relative to the top. Yes the PO may have driven home, but as I can attest Volvos can take huge punishment and still drive, but not safely. Like the time I was hit by a large Ford sedan doing 80mph on the side of my car when the drunk driver fell asleep. I was doing the posted 50mph in the other direction in a 71 Volvo 145 wagon. Car ended up with a twisted shell, but it still ran! Ford was flat to the windshield!

I always hope I am wrong!

Neil.

beigg · Post by **beigg** » 15 Oct 2016, 20:24

Dont forget the blinker fluid. Halogen if you're stock still. Otherwise, compact discharging intense diode fluid is needed. Ensure the fluid is balanced once installed!

Post by **sleddriver** » 15 Oct 2016, 21:23

Geesh...what a bummer. I was backed into a few years back on the driver side by an idiot who got "confused" and nailed me on the opposite corner. Did a bit less damage than yours. Wow, was I pissed. My second hit in 18yrs and by far the worst. I had to drive home at 3am like that as well...68miles with only a single headlight!

Beautiful color!

Post by **cn90** » 16 Oct 2016, 06:31

@scot850 is right,

I'd recommend an assessment by a body shop for any structural damage before spending money on repair.
Any time the force is enough to total another car, chances your own car has some hidden damage in the subframe or bumper support (may be not).
Once you have it checked (usually free estimate b/c the body shops wants your business), then proceed with your repair:

1. The turning signal light:
- If used...check for the broken plastic tabs (common problem), then drill some tiny holes and use small wire to attach it, that is what I do.
- If new, I have had good luck with "TYC" brand (made in Taiwan).

2. The HL assembly is tricky.
Buy the glass ONLY if the housing is not damaged, other water leak inside the housing later.
The glass I use is "TYC", perfect fit.
Anyway, you need to check the entire housing perimeter for integrity.

If this were my car, I'd go for a used Hella (OEM) housing with the glass in good condition.
Example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-2002-Volvo ... 2047430349

3. The right fender, either:
- New and repaint it.
- Body shop to smooth it out + Bondo etc.

4. Bumper from junk yard these days are in bad shape.
From looking at your pictures, your bumper is salvageable.
Bondo, and repaint it.

5. The hood latch: it may be off by now from the force of impact, a new hood may not close properly.
Can you open the hood now?

Post by **tryingbe** » 16 Oct 2016, 09:00

+1, get it checked out before replacing anything.

SeattleVolvoGuy99 · Post by **SeattleVolvoGuy99** » 16 Oct 2016, 16:40

I cannot get the hood open now so I'm kind of stuck. Although I could install the new Silverstar Ultras on her without having the hood open, couldn't I? Another question: what bulb do I get for her bright lights?

Post by **scot850** » 16 Oct 2016, 17:53

Does the hood un-latch on either side? If it un-latches on the LHS (drivers) but not the passenger, you may need 2 people to work it with a bit of brutality.

I can't recall if the RH latch has a small lever on the lower side where the cable fits that allows the latch to be released if pressed to the right when viewed from the front. You may be able to get access to is thought the broken side light hole or from higher up through eh hole caused by the bend in the hood above the fender with a long pry bar. You may need 2 people so one can try to unlatch the RHS and the other to give it upward pressure to try to release.

Neil.

Post by **JRL** » 16 Oct 2016, 21:52

You haven't even opened the hood and you're worried about a headlight?????
I'm sure the radiator support is damaged along with a bunch of other parts on the right side (like all the parts on the right side).
You have more work there than you think, the car is totaled, are you sure you want to try to fix it?
You have at least 3500-4k worth of (retail) damage there
Radiator tabs are probably broken
As said, a LOT more than you think.
I probably have an old headlight but you're not even close to thinking about a headlight yet!
All the metal behind the headlight and turn signal is crumpled.
I hope the guy has insurance

Sommerfeldt · Post by **Sommerfeldt** » 17 Oct 2016, 01:49

JRL wrote:the car is totaled, are you sure you want to try to fix it?
You have at least 3500-4k worth of (retail) damage there

I once smacked my old Toyota Carina II into the back of a Mercedes, and it looked way worse than OP's V70. In that case, the radiator went, the battery cracked and hood/fender/bumper had to be replaced, but the junk yard took care of that. It was far, FAR from "totaled". As far as I know, that Carina was still running just a couple of years ago. What's most definitely certain is that you can't assess it from 2 pics. That's ridiculous.

- S

Post by **abscate** » 17 Oct 2016, 02:18

Let's see. I paid 1000 to replace a fender on my V70 10 years ago at a cheap body shop for a driveway accident involving no othe r cars and no engine. ( Dont ask)

I think Jims estimate is low, but maybe that's why he said " at least"

For insurance purposes, it's totaled -repairs will exceed value of car.

Not to say it isnt worth fixing to get back on the road..two different things

Accident in my '98 V70

Re: Accident in my '98 V70