Window Switch Replacement How To -- excellent!

[cn90]

Can anyone post a photo of the lighting (at night) on the Switch Doctor thingy?
If you can take 2 photos: one for the Switch Doctor Master side and the right passenger OEM for comparison purposes, it'd be great.
I just want to see how bright it is.

Thanks!!!

[N10SZ]

This just happened to me on my 1999 s70. I was riding in the passenger seat and decided to try and get the window switch to work even though it had not been working. I pressed too hard and broke the switch off. There was a spring and a metal rod that was inside the unit. I got home and I took off the unit, I put it back together the best I could. I pressed the window to try and get it to roll up. It worked and rolled up but started smoking and smelled like fire. I then disconnected the window (white) wire housing. Now, everything looks nice, but I can no longer roll the window up or down from the driver's side controller, even though previously I could ONLY roll the window up or down with the driver's side controller. I do not even have the wire housing connectors connecting and now the driver's side controller will not roll the passenger's side window up or down. I am sort of confused how now the passenger's side will work but smokes and the driver's side controller will no longer work, even when the passenger's connectors are undone (or connected) on the passenger's side. What do I need to replace to get the driver's side controller to control the passenger's side again? Did I break the driver's side controller when the passenger side controller smoked? I figured I'd write this forum because the original helpful post had the same smoking, shocking problem I just went through. Thanks

[cn90]

I finally installed Switchdoctor Master Switch on driver side ($23 sold by ebay seller "switch-doctor").
As mentioned by others, this seems to be "contactless" so it should last a long time.

The fit and finish is excellent and the switches are very smooth.
I am impressed.
The only minor issue is the LED light color seems to be somewhat "greener" than stock, but no big deal as most of the time you look forward and rarely glance at the switch.

So, this switch is recommended.

[dosbricks]

I ordered directly from switchdoctor.com and paid $50. It appears that ebay one is the same thing, so a good deal. That was two years ago with no problems, and as stated, no sticky coating. The switchdoctor one is contact-less so not subject to the same failure point as the OE. But the green illumination in the switches is a lot brighter than OE--not a problem relative to saving 100+ USD.

Sorry to report this cn90, but this thread caught my eye, so I am amending my above previous post to report that the SwitchDoctor unit threw in the towel last month but they stood behind their lifetime guarantee with a new one and no shipping charge either way.

[cn90]

Interesting...

The old switch still works but I can tell it is on the way out, I keep it in the trunk as spare.

How long did your Switchdoctor switch last?

[dosbricks]

Just a tad over two years. It was the lock control rocker switch that quit. Window switches were still fine.

[DJDJ9037]

Hey Everybody,

Need some help asap!

The driver door window on my Volvo S79 98 is full down and won't go back up. I did everything in this video

and put it all back and it still won't go up.

Every other button worked fine and the sensors had green lights. However when I try push the orange piece up, which should close the driver window, nothing happened.

I then started freaking out when I went to get back in my car a couple hours later, when I unlocked the door the alarm started going off and the hazard lights blinking repeatedly. It would then stop the alarm but the lights would keep flashing. Then the alarm would start up again if I tried locking the door or unlocking it again, also it wouldn't let me start the engine during all of this.

This went on for about 20 minutes until I had given up hope and went to lock the door and it didn't trigger it. I managed to unlock the door and start the engine and drive home. It looks like the red light for the alarm is off now do permanently..

Anyway regardless when I got back I checked in the unit and saw that all the green lights were now off. Also now none of the windows work on any of the switches in the car.

I don't understand how this made it so much worse and not have any of the windows work. Do you think maybe a fuse got blown? Would that explain the green lights not working? Do i need to unplug and replug the battery to give power back to switch?

Any help please?

A helpful person on another forum said to unplug battery and put a new master switch in and then restart battery and hopefull both the window and alarm will be fixed?

Could it also be a fuse was blown when I was messing around with it?

Cheers,

[scot850]

If the fuse had blown, it is possible that now all the windows are not working. The suggestion of the battery disconnect is to reset the system in case for some reason the security system had got confused. It can happen.

So the fuse should be in the fuse box just in front of the driver's seat under the hood. Open the hood and up near the LH hinge there is a black box with a flip lid. Open that and it has a fuse layout on the lid. The lid unhooks from the hinge end if you need to see the legend more easily. There should be a little orange tool in there to help pull fuses. Do not fit a larger fuse. This may help:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fuse- ... -xc70-c70/

I just looked at it and I don't see a fuse for the windows in this box. It is actually in the main fuse box just infront of that. It is a kidney shaped lid just in front of the brake booster. It has 3 spring catches to open it. It is a different style of fuse to what most are used to. It is the one on the side by the nut for the B+ cable. This EBay listing may help as it has pictures of the lid with the legend, and the fuse and relay descriptions. It is a little confusing as the Window fuse is not where the legend shows it, but at the side of the box. These fuses pull up and out.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133734971604

Other than the dealer, not sure where you would easily get a replacement other than a junkyard. If you are in the Vancouver area, you could try Maple Ridge who part Volvos and repair. They advertise on Craigslist.

Disconnect the battery: Loosen the 10mm nut on the -ve battery terminal first and remove. Then disconnect the +ve RED wire.

These are the 2 wires that were mentioned to touch together and let the electrical system reset.

BEFORE removing the battery, do you have the Radio Code? If you have the original book pack it may be in there on a card. If not we can sort that later.

Make sure the key is out of the car also in case when the battery is reconnected the doors lock themselves. They shouldn't but I did have that happen. Also close the doors and switch off the electrics like lights so you don't get a spark when reconnecting the -ve terminal. You may get a tiny spark but nothing scary. Tighten the 2 x 10mm nuts again. They need to be tight but don't go gorilla on them!

Neil

[abscate]

Ive got a switch doctor on the T5 and its going strong after 5 years or so?