Still overheating even after water pump

Post by **oragex** » 15 Nov 2016, 10:27

When it overheats, how hot is the lower drivers side radiator hose? Also, does the engine ping uphill?

broken08 · Post by **broken08** » 15 Nov 2016, 12:51

I always run premium in my turbo cars. Can't imagine not doing that.

Post by **tryingbe** » 15 Nov 2016, 17:04

During those hill climbs, what was your speed, what's your engine vacuum/boost number and do you have a/c on?

broken08 · Post by **broken08** » 15 Nov 2016, 18:48

tryingbe wrote:During those hill climbs, what was your speed, what's your engine vacuum/boost number and do you have a/c on?

Really just cruising gently around 55, boost between 0 and 3 but mostly 0. No a.c.

Post by **tryingbe** » 15 Nov 2016, 21:48

Radiator is probably bad.

I had to flush with CLR since no one makes a radiator for a TII turbo dodge.

This is what came out.

Post by **abscate** » 16 Nov 2016, 05:32

The best way to diagnose a blocked radiator is to use an IR thermal gun and map the temperature of the radiator from top to bottom

broken08 · Post by **broken08** » 28 Nov 2016, 21:22

UPDATE:

I went big and replaced the coolant cap, heater core, and the radiator, got an OEM thermostat in there too. Did a full flush, put in 50/50 pentofrost NF. Burped the system a couple times through heat cycling. Then I took it on a longer, harder test drive and it successfully kept temps below 225!!
I was so excited. Until I opened the hood and saw that the fluid had boiled out of the reservoir like before.
I'm at a total loss now. I guess all I can assume is that the head gasket is blown in such a way that only under serious boost it pressurizes the cooling system? In which case it's just time to push this POS off a cliff and say goodbye most likely.

broken08 · Post by **broken08** » 28 Nov 2016, 21:23

Note; it NEVER smokes

Post by **kahl** » 28 Nov 2016, 21:57

You have eliminated the usual suspects. I would check timing. Set the front cams to the notches in the plastic then pull the distributor and the cam position sensor to see if the cam shafts in the rear line up. Came across similar issues several years ago on a neighbors 97 850 turbo after he did timing belt and cam seals. Car was fine while idling and the temp was fine, but under load the temp needle would climb. I can't remember the particulars but one cam had to clockwise and the other cam counter clockwise.

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 28 Nov 2016, 22:50

kahl wrote:You have eliminated the usual suspects. I would check timing. Set the front cams to the notches in the plastic then pull the distributor and the cam position sensor to see if the cam shafts in the rear line up. Came across similar issues several years ago on a neighbors 97 850 turbo after he did timing belt and cam seals. Car was fine while idling and the temp was fine, but under load the temp needle would climb. I can't remember the particulars but one cam had to clockwise and the other cam counter clockwise.

This is such a crazy post... Sounds like the car is possessed or something!

Kahl, how would timing affect the pressurization of the engine?

If this is boost and coolant pressurization-related, have all the lines that have coolant running through them been inspected? I imagine all the coolant hoses have been checked. What about the coolant lines to the turbo? Could it be a defective cap? There are so many different kinds of resevoir caps... Good luck.

Still overheating even after water pump

Re: Still overheating even after water pump