Long cranking after cleaning throttle body and MAF

enriquepr21 · Post by **enriquepr21** » 23 Dec 2016, 21:35

Hi, asking for your wisdom again

in hopes of fixing my random stalling issue I cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor and it seems to have made an improvement as the car hasn't stalled yet. However, the car is now taking longer to crank when cold. I also cleaned the connector for the fuel pressure regulator but didn't remove the actual sensor. Where should I begin testing this issue?

The car is a 2003 S60 non turbo, I'll appreciate any help I can get

Post by **abscate** » 24 Dec 2016, 03:13

I would test the coolant sensor resistance against spec...the chart for values is here on this forum

Did you change spark plugs after the last thread too? I don't remember. A non turbo uses the three prong type but use either Volvo or Bosch only

enriquepr21 · Post by **enriquepr21** » 24 Dec 2016, 07:12

abscate wrote:I would test the coolant sensor resistance against spec...the chart for values is here on this forum

Did you change spark plugs after the last thread too? I don't remember. A non turbo uses the three prong type but use either Volvo or Bosch only

Thanks I'll check the coolant sensor resistance. I haven't changed spark plugs but I'll take a look to verify brand and condition

Post by **oragex** » 24 Dec 2016, 08:01

If I remember well, it's better to have the battery disconnected when disconnecting sensors around the engine including the tb. It seems the computer looses the calibration from these sensors when they are disconnected while still powered. I would try disconnecting the red cable at the battery - usually I do so overnight but it might take less time, when the computer resets properly you'll see the climate control on Auto setting and the cabin fan will turn at max speed with no lights on the knob.

I also read about a few people who damaged the climate unit (a small thermistor inside may blow rendering the unit inoperative) while disconnecting or reconnecting the battery. It's not a common practice, but I like to have the ignition key in position II (headlights on) every time I plug/unplug the battery.

Post by **JRL** » 24 Dec 2016, 09:37

Also these MAFs really should not be cleaned, rather they should be replaced

enriquepr21 · Post by **enriquepr21** » 24 Dec 2016, 13:54

oragex wrote:If I remember well, it's better to have the battery disconnected when disconnecting sensors around the engine including the tb. It seems the computer looses the calibration from these sensors when they are disconnected while still powered. I would try disconnecting the red cable at the battery - usually I do so overnight but it might take less time, when the computer resets properly you'll see the climate control on Auto setting and the cabin fan will turn at max speed with no lights on the knob.

I also read about a few people who damaged the climate unit (a small thermistor inside may blow rendering the unit inoperative) while disconnecting or reconnecting the battery. It's not a common practice, but I like to have the ignition key in position II (headlights on) every time I plug/unplug the battery.

Thanks so i reset the car and the climate control was on auto setting with no lights on the knob indeed. Took a little bit less to crank so I'll test a couple days and report back

enriquepr21 · Post by **enriquepr21** » 25 Dec 2016, 13:29

Ok so even after resetting the car the long cranking is still there. This only happens when the engine is cold otherwise it starts right up. I forgot to mention although i don't think it's related but i removed some fuses in the driver panel which according to the manual shouldn't be there.. don't know if this could have done anything

Post by **abscate** » 25 Dec 2016, 14:11

I would put them back. Is your manual correct for your country

enriquepr21 · Post by **enriquepr21** » 25 Dec 2016, 14:13

abscate wrote:I would put them back. Is your manual correct for your country

Not sure really.. I'll put them back and check again

Thanks