Fully cleaned ETM, reassembled and still having issues Topic is solved

TheRev813 · Post by **TheRev813** » 01 Jan 2017, 12:46

Hello everyone,

I'm battling an issue on my mother's car, a 99 S70 with the 2.4T engine, roughly 90,xxx miles.

For years the idle has been up and down, anywhere from 800-1300 rpm at a standstill, poor mileage, etc etc. Just recently the car has gone into limp mode. I believe its limp mode, car stalls out once put in gear, or sometimes lurches forward uncontrollably during the high portion of the up and down idle. The ETS light also recently just came on. This car has lit up like a christmas tree for a long time, coolant light, another light comes on every time you tap the brake pedal, service light, etc.

I have yet to pull codes, but I've been searching about this for hours and decided to pull and clean the ETM. It has a yellow sticker, I've read that was a volvo replacement part. Once reassembled, it runs exactly the same. Also, when putting the intake back together I noticed that the cheap plastic tube that brings cool air into the bottom of the air cleaner doesn't really connect to anywhere behind the radiator, it looks as if something is missing there. I will update this post with codes and a photo of what I mean in a few hours, but in the meantime was wondering if someone could chime in with some feedback on the following ideas;

Pull/clean both 02 sensors
inspect for vacuum leaks
pull/inspect plugs (replaced plugs/coils a few months ago)
seafoam the engine through brake booster

I've also tried to reset the ECM, I might have this wrong, but I've disconnected the negative cable, wait a few minutes, press the brake pedal to discharge all power, then reconnect the cable while the key is in the II position. Is that how? Otherwise I was looking into tying both cables together (touching the contacts, correct?) but wanted a little more clarification on that.

Thanks in advance for any feedback, I've got to get this fixed for her, on the cheap if possible.

Post by **abscate** » 01 Jan 2017, 13:33

That ETS light with limp is usually the kiss of death for the throttle body. We could try to read all the codes but you really want the Volvo ones. I could come by in a couple of weeks with my good AUTEL and see if we can get that done.

TheRev813 · Post by **TheRev813** » 01 Jan 2017, 13:54

Assuming the throttle body is kaput, what would the options be?

I've looked at contactless upgrades, rebuild kits, and the 2 options offered by Xemodex (mail in repair, or pre programmed). What about getting a used ETM off ebay, junkyards, etc? Do they have to be programmed, or can I slap one in and go?

TheRev813 · Post by **TheRev813** » 01 Jan 2017, 14:00

https://postimg.org/image/52z6p3rgh/

Part 7 is missing from this intake. Could this contribute? The intake hose appears to end short of where it should.

Edit: my dog had taken the intake piece listed above into the yard. Reattached everything and pulled the codes PO351, 352, 353, 354, and 355. Looks like all of the ignition coils based on looking up the codes. I replaced these a few months ago, and the plugs. Does the ETM usually throw codes? I don't want to replace all the coils, etc if it's not necessary.

s10lowrider1994 · Post by **s10lowrider1994** » 01 Jan 2017, 15:12

I doubt every one of your coils went bad at the same time, you're getting multiple misfire codes for another reason. As for the etm, the contactless kit IMO is junk. I installed it on mine, and it works, but it's pretty obnoxious. I had to calibrate mine which was a pain, of course the instructions don't mention that part, but I'm not the only one who's had the issue. Luckily I was able to just turn the magnet and get it within spec but others have had to grind another flat spot on the shaft to get the sacer kit to cooperate. Don't get me wrong, it works and it wasn't hard to install, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you're super confident tearing into the etm and soldering. You also aren't going to brake the factory connections loose with a soldering iron, I had to use a dremel to grind off one side of the connections. None of the instructions mention either calibrating or needing to grind off the factory contacts.

A used one will work, but you'll need to have it programmed which some dealers simply won't do. After going through all of the above nonsense myself, xemodex is money well spent. It costs what it costs because it's worth it. Plug and play, no fiddling, no hacking, no headache.

TheRev813 · Post by **TheRev813** » 01 Jan 2017, 15:16

Thanks for the feedback. When the car is running, the rpms surge bad until it putters out. There is a rich smell of what I believe to be unburnt gas from the exhaust. It smells must richer than normal. When I did the plugs and coils a few months ago I noticed oil in the spark plug wells, I will look at that again and check back.

Post by **precopster** » 01 Jan 2017, 17:09

Turbo hose is dislodged or loose: Check this:

TheRev813 · Post by **TheRev813** » 01 Jan 2017, 17:21

Just checked that, the hose is securely attached at the back of the engine, and front. Still looking for a cracked hose or something, for sure.

TheRev813 · Post by **TheRev813** » 01 Jan 2017, 18:08

I followed the turbo hose from the back of the engine all the way down to the front of the car. Forgive my ignorance, but the intercooler is a radiator looking device, filled with oil? There is a plastic tank down there with a 6" crack in it, and there is oil all over where the crack is. Would that cause my issue?

Post by **precopster** » 01 Jan 2017, 19:36

Absolutely. You found the issue!! Well done. It's not filled with oil but a lot of oil gets into it. Clean all the oil residue off and see if you can pour some solvent through the intercooler to clear the reside because replacing it will be a PITA. Some sort of 2 part epoxy over the hole will be a good repair.