98 V70 XC Starting Problems - Both No Crank and Cranking Hard to Start Intermittently

jcurle · Post by **jcurle** » 07 Jan 2017, 19:59

Just bought the car off a friend for next to nothing. After two days with no issues I had a no crank no start. All lights were on, fuel pump engaged, and could hear the starter click. I thought it may be a dead battery so I tried to jump it. Still wouldn't start right away but after a couple of minutes of trying I got it to start cranking over. It was hard to start and had to give full gas to get it to go. After this it ran and drove fine so I could get home from work. After sitting for a couple of hours I had the same issue of no crank.

The next morning I had the same issue with no crank but after trying for a couple of minutes I got it to crank but not start (Problem #1?). Same as before (no jump) with lots of cranking over and giving it throttle I got it to start (Problem #2?). Let it run for a bit and warm start and driving all seem fine.

Checked battery and charge is good (battery is brand new)

Borrowed a reader from a friend and pulled the following codes:

P0410 - secondary air intake pump - shouldn't be causing an issue
P0133 - front o2 sensor - probably not the issue
P0116 - engine coolant temperature sensor - could be a problem
P0102 - MAF sensor - Cleaned with MAF cleaner but not sure this is the cause of the problem
P0455 - Possibly the fuel cap but shouldn't affect starting

I feel as if I almost have two separate problems (see above) - the no crank no start and the hard start. I guess I should mention I am in Canada and current temperature is about -15-20 (0-5 F) so quite cold.

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 08 Jan 2017, 05:25

The ECT is most likely causing the issue. When it goes bad, the computer doesn't know if the car is hot or cold and will provide poor fuel mixture. Additionally, your MAF and O2 sensor are also important in a properly running car.

Personally, I would clear the codes first and then try and get the car running to see what shows up again.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 08 Jan 2017, 08:19

I agree with the ECT- have had that issue numerous times. If you swap this part, make sure and get a Volvo part- not a 3rd party knock-off that you would get at an Autozone- they just don't work consistently and will cause you headaches... also clean the two terminals that the sensor plugs into!! Another thing I would look into- make sure that the fuel filter has been replaced within the last 100K miles. I found this to be an issue once with one of our Volvos...it's an easy replacement (Bosch is a OEM for this I believe) and without that in the equation you can be chasing rabbits for a long time. Of course, you can check fuel pressure at the shcrader valve at the top of your engine. The other suspect is the fuel pump relay....which is under the fuses under the hood in front of the driver's side windshield...you need a torx to get the little screws out to access the relay labeled 103...then jumper the #15 and #87 slots where the relay plugs into to see if this is the culprit. Good luck!!

Post by **kahl** » 08 Jan 2017, 10:42

On my 98v70 XC and the AWD the fuel filter is placed up on top the fuel tank. It was difficult to remove and replace without a lift. It should be changed but with your temps you may want a garage to deal with the filter. I think this was the only year Volvo placed the filter in this poorly accessible area.

jcurle · Post by **jcurle** » 08 Jan 2017, 11:51

Started fine this morning. Not plugged in over night and it started first crank with no trouble (-22 C this morning). I plan to swap out the ECT, front O2 sensor, and fuel filter this week.

I am still slightly worried about the no crank symptom that I have intermittently observed does anyone have any extra thoughts on this? Could this be an immobilizer issue ?

Thanks to all for their reply's so far. I will drive /repair over the next couple of days and monitor codes/performance etc.

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 08 Jan 2017, 20:28

When you say no crank, you mean no movement at all? Does the starter click rapidly? It may be a bad battery, even if you're able to get it running occasionally (with or without a jump). How old is yours?

Post by **scot850** » 09 Jan 2017, 10:45

OP says the battery is new. If it is an immobiliser issue, try locking the drivers door and un-locking a couple of times using the key to make sure it has reset the immobiliser.

I'd check all the battery cables and earths to make sure they are good.

Next I'd be looking at the electrical portion of the ignition key.

It sucks when these issues happen when it gets this cold. It is about -30C here in Calgary today with the wind-chill!

Neil.

jcurle · Post by **jcurle** » 09 Jan 2017, 11:36

When it won't crank I get no rapid clicking. Only a single click of the starter solenoid (?). I checked the battery and have good voltage. I left if overnight saturday unplugged and it started 1st crank in -25 so I think the hard start problem has been partially addressed (still will replace the ECT sensor this week).

jcurle · Post by **jcurle** » 11 Jan 2017, 09:05

Update

I am still trying to track the issue with no crank. Yesterday it started fine in the AM (block heater plugged in). PM start after work required about 20-30 turns of the key in the ignition (block heater not used). Every time there is a starter click but the starter doesn't engage. I found if I turn the key all the way back to the 0 position and on again it would crank over. I am a bit at a loss of what to think of when I cant get it to crank over? I plan to clean all the of the connections and check grounds on the batter and starter. Can anyone suggest some other 'easy' type fixes I can knock off the list?

As well I got a reoccurring fault of the engine coolant temperature sensor which I plan to swap out this weekend when things warm up a bit. I have not had a hard start since cleaning the MAF sensor.

Post by **scot850** » 11 Jan 2017, 11:22

Go back to my post on this thread and check my recommendations.

In particular I would consider the electrical portion of the ignition key.

If you are just getting a click, then you should have the starter checked assuming you have a battery with 6 good cells and check the condition of the battery/starter/alternator cables.

When it gets this cold, if you do short runs and have all the electrical stuff switched on (headlights/seat heaters/rear defrost/mirror defrost) the battery may not be able to replace the power removed quickly enough. I'd still suspect the ignition switch/battery/starter as all cause issues when this cold.

Neil.