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Buying Journey V70? Outside Salt Belt Advice For Newbie Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
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JRL
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Re: Buying Journey V70? Outside Salt Belt Advice For Newbie

Post by JRL »

Probably because another "Volvo thing" needed replacing.
98s are not the panacea year you think. 99s and 2000s drive a lot smoother. Yes they have a couple of failure issues but if these parts have been recently replaced you usually don't need to worry about it for a while.
Personally, I think that you would be MUCH happier in a 2005-2007 P2 wagon, be it FWD or AWD (XC70) and can be bought privately for 5-6K with halfway decent miles, (under 130K).
The work needed on some is not different than a 98-2000 but they have a MUCH nicer ride a MUCH better engine (the 2.5T) and are much less prone to squeaks and rattles.

I paid under 6K for the V70 (2.5 TURBO, picture below), a rust free top and underside from FL).
I did the usual work needed at 100K miles, did a few mods and I have to tell you that this has been one of the most trouble free Volvos I have had...and I have had a LOT OF THEM, personally and the ones I sell.

This is not a sales pitch but look at my black 2006 XC70 in the classifieds. Yes, it's more than you want to spend now but ALL the necessary work and then some has been recently completed by me. You should be able to buy these for 5500 to 7K. Yes, most will need the work I listed that I just completed but most of it can be done over the next year or so if you buy one of these.

Find a nice one to try it out first and before you go backwards.

I'm older then you so listen to your elders! :D

My current personal 2007 (107,000 miles)
Image

2006 XC70 AWD that's for sale (105,000 miles) Ad in the classified sectios
Image
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP

2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.

Winfred
Posts: 11
Joined: 8 January 2017
Year and Model: 1998 v70
Location: South St. Paul, MN

Post by Winfred »

abscate wrote:As long as you find your chi, Winfred, we don't mind if its in a Volvo or not.

One of my other car passions is air cooled VW - and you should see the posts we get from there. Usually someone who has bought a 1970 Bus and is in the middle of the Mohave and the 'oil light came on' The old VWs really require maintenance monthly and most just are not up for that.

As long as you active CA is ok - being retired you can learn how to miss traffic, but my folks are 85& 92 and are moving back to upstate NY for sunset retirement
Hi Abscate!

I had a '69 VW bug and I remember at about 25 below huffing away my own steam clouds and pushing it... the fuel line freezing up. Later I saw someone on like Dick Cavett Show and talking about all the injuries in VW line of vehicles with accidents -- years ago of course. Hey, did you see that tutorial about Volvos (I better start talkin' about Volvos ha) on YouTube with a guy named "Robert" and he said with Volvos, to really keep them up would be averaging out around $250 a month in reality. That got me huffing! He's a great mechanic with great advice but feel he was off on that... wow, 250? Have you heard that? Add it all up at the end of each year and with a Volvo an average of $250 a month?!

I sold my bug to get enough money to go to Europe on a "student program" that advertised at our community college, an outfit out of Luxembourg and suppose to set you, the adventurous college student on his way to success... up with an exciting job and place to stay in beautiful Europe. This was in '75. Well... I got there via their program's Icelandic flight, got the run-around Luxembourg style, then sent hitchhiking and via a ferry to the "White Cliffs Of Dover" to an apple picking job in England that didn't exist! I didn't give up and ended up working jobs on my own for less the minimum wages (same pay as ones that did get jobs with that student jobs/European experience company) in England, Switzerland, and Italy. So that outfit closed up and split town! So again the school of hard knocks ha! How is this like Volvo... trying to say thanks to you guys for the prevention of re-registering in that grand old school ha! Sorry for your parents giving up on their sunny spot and returning to New York... but really though they are still up and about so to speak at that age. Both my parents I took care of until they spread their eternal wings and both were active right up to the end! That's the way I hope it is for me. Part of what's bent me over were 12 hour shifts sticking and shoving logs in a log pond ha! Of my 101 jobs I feel that one kind of put things where they are in the long kind of a run with things... well a garbage run with a modified box truck re-modified into a hydraulic dumper and lifting everything about 7 ft off the ground to get it in the box, then climbing on top dodging power lines and jumping up an down on the rot to pack it in and for far less than minimum wage ha! I feel my best job ever or greatest accomplishment was with taking care of my parents until their transcendence. It's snowing now, beautifully, and I can cherish the every minute... but the a Volvo with hatch open and sitting in that little 3rd seat that folds out of the floor, the sound of the surf and an ocean breeze etc etc ha! I better go and do some Volvo research etc and come back as this gets addictive ha!
Top of the Day!
Winfred

Winfred
Posts: 11
Joined: 8 January 2017
Year and Model: 1998 v70
Location: South St. Paul, MN

Post by Winfred »

Hi JRL!

From the heart of the "Salt Belt" here, Minnesota... middle of an "Artic Air Mass" too ha! I just finished one answer, one to "Abscate", and started scroll up to find these great detailed pictures of yours of some beautiful Volvo cars you provided and great advice THANKS! So once again, great advice here, and from "Laot Tsu" (sp?) himself! "Laot Tsu" I learned really translates to "Old Man" ha! I didn't realize one can find cars here at Matthew's Volvo website as well! I was only looking at Craig's list and Car Guru etc. Really those about 20 "98's" I found were all with Craig's List! I was hours and hours going from city to city state to state all day yesterday and some for like $1,500... but really need to think about what problems I could encounter to get them up to real par where I could then "go forth into the world" - don't know where that quote comes from ha! You've opened a door! I had the plan of spending $4,500 tops, just maybe 5K, then cost of registering it, sales tax etc. and I don't know if there's that plate fee for the entire year, not just the tags but that road fee that can be like $175 too. Then I had enough for the $1,000 rule with most on any needed repairs plus really stretching it and spending part of the $1,000 on ($300) on getting a better used bicycle ha! My 22 yr old mountain bike and it's "permanently sealed" this and that is getting to the scrap metal "event horizon" ha! My 288lbs peak has taken a toll on things like bikes, and my joints, and a lot more ha! Late last night I gave in about the "Salt Belt" nation and I found a '98 V70 for about $1,250 on Craig's list right here under my nose in Minnesota but maybe I better stop myself and consider this area of Volvo your mention too - but that guy in Texas said 5 pro Volvo mechanics but I guess what's pro and what's not exactly pro... "pro" being a loose term too ha! So I should learn what "P2" is, which I think the "P" means "platform" which I think means the frame of the car I learned about Volvo on I think it was YouTube yesterday. Meanwhile I'm hoping that guy with the $1,250 V70 answers to give its VIN number as I read I can look up the car's history on that number. So maybe just plunk it all down on a more expensive Volvo but more reliable and easier to still find parts - but then it's no bumming it in a yet older Volvo for parts unknown, yet pearls of wisdom with your advice. I really hope my post helps others too, I mean that this isn't all about "me" and others can glean things here too from a fantastic bunch of guys here! I read your reply fast but seemed you said you alleviate the major typical used Volvo costs as you bring each car up to par before you show it. Is it really $250 a month to operate a Volvo like the guy "Robert" on YouTube said in his tutorial? Also just saw, and my first "reply" here at Matthew's site, that video that Robert is in the hospital and he sure got my prayers! "A fibs" they call 'em as my mother had them. I hope that's all it is as they can control that with meds or some other means... but something to look out for and not take for granted like some people do (well I do some glossing it over about my own heart at time ha). My head's bobbing and only ate one peanut butter sandwich today so far ha! I am going to stand back, like you know, like those oil painters do from the canvas and take a look at things and what great advice from you! I'll have to find that spot on this site with actual Volvos for sale too. All part of it, and re-read your advice and look up terminologies and learn more about Volvo. I just had to send this quick message of thanks for taking the time with me, and thanks to so many here! I never dreamed such advice would happen! I slept 2 hours last night and now my head is bobbing again!
Top of the Day!
Winfred
JRL wrote:Probably because another "Volvo thing" needed replacing.
98s are not the panacea year you think. 99s and 2000s drive a lot smoother. Yes they have a couple of failure issues but if these parts have been recently replaced you usually don't need to worry about it for a while.
Personally, I think that you would be MUCH happier in a 2005-2007 P2 wagon, be it FWD or AWD (XC70) and can be bought privately for 5-6K with halfway decent miles, (under 130K).
The work needed on some is not different than a 98-2000 but they have a MUCH nicer ride a MUCH better engine (the 2.5T) and are much less prone to squeaks and rattles.

I paid under 6K for the V70 (2.5 TURBO, picture below), a rust free top and underside from FL).
I did the usual work needed at 100K miles, did a few mods and I have to tell you that this has been one of the most trouble free Volvos I have had...and I have had a LOT OF THEM, personally and the ones I sell.

This is not a sales pitch but look at my black 2006 XC70 in the classifieds. Yes, it's more than you want to spend now but ALL the necessary work and then some has been recently completed by me. You should be able to buy these for 5500 to 7K. Yes, most will need the work I listed that I just completed but most of it can be done over the next year or so if you buy one of these.

Find a nice one to try it out first and before you go backwards.

I'm older then you so listen to your elders! :D

My current personal 2007 (107,000 miles)
Image

2006 XC70 AWD that's for sale (105,000 miles) Ad in the classified sectios
Image

MadeInJapan
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Post by MadeInJapan »

Winfred- welcome to MVS. You have high aspirations and I applaud your enthusiasm to own a Volvo. I think what you want is a bone stock wagon that has been kept up well. Nothing wrong with one with a turbo- they are typically robust in these cars. You said you wanted an automatic- 99% of them are. If you find one with a stick that's very rare and it may have been converted. Stay away from anything that says Stage-1, Stage 2 or Stage 3. What you want is Stage-0...what has been brought up to snuff or as it was when it was new... The more numbers there are to "stage," the more that has been tweaked to it and the potential for problems unless you personally know what was done and can deal with its consequences. Look for as low a mileage as possible. Anything up to 1998, 70K mile time belts and typically at least the water pump every other TB change. Tensioners need to be replaced on these at the same rate as the water pump too. If newer model, you are looking at a longer TB interval (120K miles now or maybe even longer on brand new Volvos) but the Water Pump probably should be changed out more frequently and the mechanical tensioner at every TB change. Another big issue is the breather system (PCV) which if clogged can result in the rear main seal leaking and is costly. Replacement of this system involves taking the intake manifold off, and replacing the oil trap (breather box) and related hoses. At 100K miles most of the Volvos on the road need complete suspension parts replacements -shocks, struts, end links, spring seats- the works.

If the Volvo has been well maintained and there are records for it, then you might not be in for $250 a month but if it's an older one, until things are up to snuff, you better count on budgeting a couple grand at least the first year- maybe more. Certainly we can help you trouble shoot issues and you will find that maintaining a Volvo is not as costly as many other cars out there. But it isn't a Subaru, Toyota or Nissan which run well relatively care-free. Most of the time, you do the brakes, change the oil on a schedule, rotate the tires and buy them new ones when they're worn out, and you're done. It's just important that you are realistic about the on-going upkeep of a Volvo, and buy accordingly. As these cars get older things on them begin going south unexpectedly. Ask me how I know- we've owned 8 or 9 total in our years as a family. JRL has bought and sold many many more and he's a good one to ask about reliability! In my case, I have been asked to go with friends to look at Volvos that they were interested in purchasing. There have been what seemed to be (from Craigslist and other sources) very nice 850's (which are great cars too) and S and V70's out there (even your favorite- 1998's) that were so run down and neglected that if they were given to me free I would have rejected them. If you have the funds, I would go with what JRL said and look into a P2 model (2001 onward in the V or XC70 series)...just avoid the first year of these- the 2001- worst year for Volvo's ever in any series.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

Winfred
Posts: 11
Joined: 8 January 2017
Year and Model: 1998 v70
Location: South St. Paul, MN

Post by Winfred »

Hi MadeinJapan!

I didn't realize until now your response as I just returned after only having 2 hrs of sleep in 24 ha! I like Volvo a lot but didn't realize what you mention about Subaru, Nissan, and Toyota. In the 12 years as of last August 17th, my mother's birthday, actually would have been her hundredth year this year... my brother gave us in 2004 his 1997 Subaru Legacy L station wagon at 154,000 miles at a big reunion/birthday party I put on for my mother every year for quite a few years. He kept a log book and was a good owner. I kept a log for a while but not nearly the self discipline of my brother, actually the way he is with everything, a very organized person. I mean I do have self discipline but all another story with my asymetrical path ha! So a month later after he gave us the Subaru there were problems I can't exactly recall the details of. He just said bring it down to the dealership where he had all of his servicing done north of St. Paul, MN and put it all on his account. "Down" I mean I had returned "up north" from Minneapolis/St. Paul to take care of my mother and father in the northern part of the state. I still remember the price of $511 to change the timing belt and water pump. I was very grateful.

Over the years I did like you said, all the oil changes on time, rotated the tires. That winter of I took it to a Subaru dealer in Duluth and they did $600 in various servicing that later my brother laughed about after looking at the bill but forgot about when I showed him that bill. So over the years I did things as they happened, the anti-knocking sensor, the rear struts ($687 for both). One CV joint went bad when going through Fargo and was $320 at Tires Plus there. Within the same year, once I got back to the north of MN 3 1/2 months later and over 10,000 miles, I finally later replaced the other CV joint or axle at a local shop I use to clean once in a while (custodial). I got back that trip from my big journey to Big Sur coast and the west only without my mother as she had transcended a year before my big plans to take her to Big Sur and Salinas and playing piano around there and living away from the more expensive Monterrey. God had other plans and I felt I just had to, my grieving process, finish the trip. 2 1/2 of those months I slept in the back of my Subaru wagon and saved mega dollars by car camping and some hike-in camping.

In our Subaru wagon I took my mother on two trips all over the West, and another major trip in my late father's 1978 Chevy Impala. That major trip was in fall of 2000 even going up into Alberta Canada to Waterton Park, the northern half of the Waterton/Glacier National Park, amazing trip and on the "Going-to-the-Sun-Road" in Glacier, wow. To this day I've never had to have anything done to the Subaru engine and I'm at 285,000 miles and it still sounds fantastic! I just always had nice spark plugs ha! I just drive like an old granny and listen closely to the engine ha! A mechanic retired in my Senior bldg (he moved out to warmer climates) listened about a year ago. I said to him that I hope to make it to 300,000 miles and he burst out laughing! He said "400,000"! Then I burst out laughing! Then after listening to the engine and talking he a while later laughed again and said no, "450,000"! Really though we weren't looking close nor with a hoist to lift and look under it and only listening from standing. Man, I got off on tangents! So I in past 1 1/2 yrs had a power steering pump put in, the gas tank filler tube (was a hassle for the mechanic to get it in too), one tie rod, the blower fan in the dash (hard to get at and was $320!) and the fuel pump (pump is back in the tank and accessible through a small door in the floor of the wagon and surgical, a trick to get it out without having to take out the gas tank... amazing mechanic!). The "new" fuel pump is a nicer Bosch and that transplant cost about $450 and a miracle my brother paid for it kind of like a Christmas gift that year. Last June it was two new calipers, two rotors, and all new brake pads. The car accelerates and sounds great! The problem is the gaskets and heavy rusting going on here in the "Salt Belt".

I'm thinking the Volvo wagon is roomier. I was thinking they were like Subaru but twice as good maintenance wise. I mean I'm not "knowledgeable" like you and the bunch here. Volvo is a romantic idea I guess, yet romantic in another way as they are amazing. I mean 2 grand the first year besides buying the car... that's too much for me. I worked 32 years once I looked at my overview that SS sends out... but really I'm not in the category income wise to do that. I never realized certain realities and I'm very glad I came here to hash things out from you all here that I'm ever grateful to. I might have some things happen in my life coming up and just wait 2 weeks and see what happens with a novel I've worked on for 3 years. Maybe I better stick with Subaru, and Outback but really feel as things are now I best find another car very soon, right? Would you from what I describe?

1997 was the last year the Subaru wagons weren't called Outbacks and that's what I have. It's bad, the rust and the brake lines rusty and the clunk sound the "trans-axle" as they say makes. I guess it's the auto-up-shift and the auto-down-shift aspect of it when I'm coasting in a big parking lot and decelerating or accelerating slowly it will "clunk". Also the head gasket... yet my coolant I had filled a year before I forgot to tell the mechanic who said it was "low". It wasn't that low, about 2 inches lower in the reservoir in a year. Also a few times I did see the telltale white vapor. Also now I have "dual" mufflers all in one ha! Now exhaust is drifting out under at driver's door area. The mechanic wiggled my muffler and it's so rusty, it's very bad. It now sounds louder too and pipe could drop off. Also the tranny and oil pan gaskets and some around the engine seal he called it and some but not all that much around the head gasket. I had the valve cover gaskets done about a year ago.

I'm going to keep studying Volvo and see what this editor says after about two weeks from now as she's going to read it next week she told me -- once she reads my "great American novel" ha! It might mean paying her to do the next level of major editing critique, and that would mean limping along with what I have, the Subaru... only I'm 51,000 miles past when I should have had the timing belt/water pump replaced!!! School of hard knocks as mechanic said especially in the very cold the belt that he said has cracks in it could snap, then I'm done for! If she's optimistic and it's on to a publisher, then it could mean spending less on editing and on to another car. Wow, here at Volvo... Matthew's website that I discovered by chance, I'm ironing out the asymetrical in me! You seem very intelligent, like all the Volvo bunch here. Let me know what you think about anything. Sorry I get complicated sometimes. I just found myself describing a lot and really if you have any input in any or the areas I mention your point of view would be greatly appreciated. I have to go out, demanding of myself a 4 mile walk a day as I'm way over weight (over 100lbs over) and Dr saying shape up or diabetes, also major back issues which I relate to with my many manual labor jobs in my life. One year I had 5 different W2 forms ha! There's a Subaru/Volvo fork in the road and a few others ha! I'm very grateful to all here, quite a phenomenal bunch here! I like looking at Volvos and going to the tutorials I found on YouTube. I'm going to look in the used Volvo ads here too thanks to the guy who posted the great photos. Thanks for all you do to make this website possible! More musing for me to do and a lot of food for thought here! I hope there's something others can glean from this too!
Top of the Day!
Winfred
MadeInJapan wrote:Winfred- welcome to MVS. You have high aspirations and I applaud your enthusiasm to own a Volvo. I think what you want is a bone stock wagon that has been kept up well. Nothing wrong with one with a turbo- they are typically robust in these cars. You said you wanted an automatic- 99% of them are. If you find one with a stick that's very rare and it may have been converted. Stay away from anything that says Stage-1, Stage 2 or Stage 3. What you want is Stage-0...what has been brought up to snuff or as it was when it was new... The more numbers there are to "stage," the more that has been tweaked to it and the potential for problems unless you personally know what was done and can deal with its consequences. Look for as low a mileage as possible. Anything up to 1998, 70K mile time belts and typically at least the water pump every other TB change. Tensioners need to be replaced on these at the same rate as the water pump too. If newer model, you are looking at a longer TB interval (120K miles now or maybe even longer on brand new Volvos) but the Water Pump probably should be changed out more frequently and the mechanical tensioner at every TB change. Another big issue is the breather system (PCV) which if clogged can result in the rear main seal leaking and is costly. Replacement of this system involves taking the intake manifold off, and replacing the oil trap (breather box) and related hoses. At 100K miles most of the Volvos on the road need complete suspension parts replacements -shocks, struts, end links, spring seats- the works.

If the Volvo has been well maintained and there are records for it, then you might not be in for $250 a month but if it's an older one, until things are up to snuff, you better count on budgeting a couple grand at least the first year- maybe more. Certainly we can help you trouble shoot issues and you will find that maintaining a Volvo is not as costly as many other cars out there. But it isn't a Subaru, Toyota or Nissan which run well relatively care-free. Most of the time, you do the brakes, change the oil on a schedule, rotate the tires and buy them new ones when they're worn out, and you're done. It's just important that you are realistic about the on-going upkeep of a Volvo, and buy accordingly. As these cars get older things on them begin going south unexpectedly. Ask me how I know- we've owned 8 or 9 total in our years as a family. JRL has bought and sold many many more and he's a good one to ask about reliability! In my case, I have been asked to go with friends to look at Volvos that they were interested in purchasing. There have been what seemed to be (from Craigslist and other sources) very nice 850's (which are great cars too) and S and V70's out there (even your favorite- 1998's) that were so run down and neglected that if they were given to me free I would have rejected them. If you have the funds, I would go with what JRL said and look into a P2 model (2001 onward in the V or XC70 series)...just avoid the first year of these- the 2001- worst year for Volvo's ever in any series.

j-dawg
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Post by j-dawg »

I notice you mention an aluminum body. The V70 does not have that. It's a steel body. The rust protection is very good, but if it's been in an accident or had some scrapes and subsequently exposed to salt, a V70 can rust. The bodies on most of these cars are clean, and rust on suspension components is rarely a problem, but be vigilant.

I've been car camping in my V70 and it's tight. I'm about 5'6" and the cargo area is barely adequate for me as a sleeping surface. The 850/S70/V70 actually isn't a very large car in terms of footprint. The cargo capacity is good due to the tall, square tailgate and the wide greenhouse, but the actual surface area in which to sleep may not be much better than in your Subaru, if at all. Measure carefully, I'd say.
1999 V70 T5 5-SPD | ~277k mi | sold

Winfred
Posts: 11
Joined: 8 January 2017
Year and Model: 1998 v70
Location: South St. Paul, MN

Post by Winfred »

j-dawg wrote:I notice you mention an aluminum body. The V70 does not have that. It's a steel body. The rust protection is very good, but if it's been in an accident or had some scrapes and subsequently exposed to salt, a V70 can rust. The bodies on most of these cars are clean, and rust on suspension components is rarely a problem, but be vigilant.

I've been car camping in my V70 and it's tight. I'm about 5'6" and the cargo area is barely adequate for me as a sleeping surface. The 850/S70/V70 actually isn't a very large car in terms of footprint. The cargo capacity is good due to the tall, square tailgate and the wide greenhouse, but the actual surface area in which to sleep may not be much better than in your Subaru, if at all. Measure carefully, I'd say.
Hi j-dawg;

It's funny how I can launch such a major effort to find the best used Volvo for my needs and I've never have ridden in a Volvo wagon. The only Volvo I've ever ridden in is my older sister's Volvo, a sedan, about 10 years ago that was very nice. So I've never physically sat in or put down the back seats to see how I'd fit in a V70 and wow, how foolish I am as you describe the actual size using your own height as an example and you are 3 inches shorter than I am. I just assumed Volvo is so renowned and high quality and roomy that the cargo area was also. So the like 1998 V70 isn't larger than the wagons that came after that? I'm thinking 1998 or later. Laying flat is important to me because I have multiple back problems, and I sleep best if I can lay flat. In my Subaru I can at 5' 9" lay diagonally flat, which is fine with me. Would I be able to do so in a V70 laying at an angle such as my head behind the front passenger's seat and my feet in the back corner driver's side? I also have sleep apnea which is a problem of snoring. I have it so bad my breath cuts off completely and I never completely wake up to know it happens and lose the phase 4 deep sleep part of my sleep where you get a satisfied and true restful sleep. In fact one never knows they "wake up" like 40 times a minute as they don't remember when they awake, they just always don't understand why they feel tired all the time. So I have a sleep apnea machine that pumps air in my nose that opens my airway so I breath clearly. I plug this device into my Subaru cigarette lighter socket. It converts 12 volts DC to 110 volts AC. I even wonder if a Volvo V70 has a cigarette lighter. Does it have one? Also the aluminum body... I read Volvos have an aluminum body. Is that something of the past where ever since they were I guess in 1999 bought by General Motors that they then no longer had aluminum bodies? I thought 1998 was the last year they were actually the real Volvo company owned and operated by Swedish people. Also, for the first couple of years... do you find it true that if you were to include all the maintenance and repair to get your used Volvo up to par to figure on spending equivalent to $250 a month? I just want your opinion as that fact hit me really hard when I heard "Robert" the pro Volvo mechanic who does a lot of videos on YouTube say this. I was hoping he's mistaken, yet maybe that's the real fact of life when owning a Volvo. If you have time... let me know what you've heard. Thanks so very much for your helpful advice and to all here who have been so kind to inform me. I might have to wait a while before I buy a Volvo and limp along maybe in my 1997 subaru, a big decision.

Winfred
Posts: 11
Joined: 8 January 2017
Year and Model: 1998 v70
Location: South St. Paul, MN

Post by Winfred »

Hi JRL!
I just wanted to say I looked at your ad. What a great find! Also, what a great job you've done to fix what was needed before you put it up for sale. I hope you get every penny you can! Sorry I'm not in that price range and right now stepping back kind of like an artist steps back from his canvas to look things over about my quest for a Volvo. I might have to wait a while is my result so far and thanks to the commenters here and to you included. Do you think that a used Volvo owner, the older Volvos like late 90's to up to 10 yrs ago or so... in their first couple of years can expect, once they average out or divide out all costs to get the car in top par and maintenance, that they can figure about $250 a month? Also, what do you figure the monthly cost would be once one has their Volvo up to par and keeping up on all maintenance? Thanks again for your input!

Top of the Day!
Winfred
JRL wrote:Probably because another "Volvo thing" needed replacing.
98s are not the panacea year you think. 99s and 2000s drive a lot smoother. Yes they have a couple of failure issues but if these parts have been recently replaced you usually don't need to worry about it for a while.
Personally, I think that you would be MUCH happier in a 2005-2007 P2 wagon, be it FWD or AWD (XC70) and can be bought privately for 5-6K with halfway decent miles, (under 130K).
The work needed on some is not different than a 98-2000 but they have a MUCH nicer ride a MUCH better engine (the 2.5T) and are much less prone to squeaks and rattles.

I paid under 6K for the V70 (2.5 TURBO, picture below), a rust free top and underside from FL).
I did the usual work needed at 100K miles, did a few mods and I have to tell you that this has been one of the most trouble free Volvos I have had...and I have had a LOT OF THEM, personally and the ones I sell.

This is not a sales pitch but look at my black 2006 XC70 in the classifieds. Yes, it's more than you want to spend now but ALL the necessary work and then some has been recently completed by me. You should be able to buy these for 5500 to 7K. Yes, most will need the work I listed that I just completed but most of it can be done over the next year or so if you buy one of these.

Find a nice one to try it out first and before you go backwards.

I'm older then you so listen to your elders! :D

My current personal 2007 (107,000 miles)
Image

2006 XC70 AWD that's for sale (105,000 miles) Ad in the classified sectios
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Once you get the car up to the maintenance schedule it's cheaper than $3000 a year. Think about 10-15 cents per mile, so say 1500 per year for paid work. You can make it 1/3 of that if you pick the minor and medium jobs yourself.

I budget about 2000 per year for parts for my fleet of 5 doing all the work myself and usually stay on budget.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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Winfred
Posts: 11
Joined: 8 January 2017
Year and Model: 1998 v70
Location: South St. Paul, MN

Post by Winfred »

Hi Clemens!

Thanks again for your input and wasn't thinking of earlier Volvos than 1998. I'm thinking that the older they get the more difficult it is to get parts. You're in Austria so maybe with the European tradition of taking such good care of what one owns that there are a lot more parts and many more Volvos of those years still in operation, right? Also something of synchronicity with the picture of your car! I didn't say anything earlier but the picture surprised me, kind of made me feel intimidated because the person who was selling the Volvo wagon that I listed his modifications and features with his sale I thought I'd include this coincidental ad at this point. In other words his Volvo for sale looks amazingly just like yours where at first I thought maybe he was responding to my post having seen part of his ad here ha! http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/cto/5950196462.html I don't know how to post the picture, how to "upload" it so I'm including the link to his ad. It is a very nice looking car! Thanks again for your very much appreciated input!

Later!
Mike
Clemens wrote:why exlude the earlier p80 (850) wagons? The until 95 models have the oBD 1 blinky box that gives you codes without the need for an OBD2 scanner (that, btw., is pretty much useless for 96 and 97 cars).

I agree with abscate, volvos run good on volvo parts and there is alot that can go wrong.
I've had a 95 4dr for 6 years that i bought for 1000 and nothing except for a fuel pump, timing belt, battery, new brakes and a heater core to fix.
If you want to keep it in pristine condition, or even nice, prepare to spend alot more.

Have you considered Oregon or northern California? Not as warm, but a few of my friends moved up there because California got too expensive for them. Just to consider if you are on a budget.

Good luck with your journey!

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