S60 taking a long time to heat up

[MadeInJapan]

This is on my son's '07 S60 2.5T that I drove today. After starting the car and driving it for over 15 minutes or so, I finally started to feel the car was heating up and the needle for the engine temp was finally approaching center line. On all of our other Volvo's this happens within minutes of starting the car so to me, this was taking way to long to occur on his S60. Some caveats: The outside temps were in the teens and the car was kept outside all night. He had the temps inside the cabin turned all the way up with the blower fan pretty high too. I told him that I would try to find a solution but also mentioned to him that the car would probably heat up faster if he didn't try to pull any heat that the engine created into the cabin to begin with and I recommended he turn the temp down to something reasonable such as 70 or 72. What came to mind is that there are 2 different thermostats for these cars. I believe that this car came from a milder climate area such as Florida and therefore it may have had the thermostat that opens up at a different temp than what is ideal for us here in TN, especially with our current winter conditions. I can't recall the exact temp ranges on these thermostats, but am I even in the right ball park thinking in terms of the thermostat? Once the temp reached where it was supposed to be (right in the middle with the gauge) it stayed there without issue and there was no variation. There also was no noticeable engine under-performance nor were there any codes set. If there had been any of these symptoms, I would have immediately thought about the ECT as I've experienced this before on our other Volvos.

[MadeInJapan]

Finding out that if the thermostat is stuck open, I can't just replace it- I have to buy the entire thermostat assembly kit for this car at a price of over $100. Stupid move Volvo- just crazy! If the thermostat itself (which is typically a $15 to $20 part) is not meant to be exchanged, why then do you put bolts on top of the assembly where you can take it apart to get to the thermostat?

[abscate]

I thought you can source the thermostat separately, but Ive never complained about Volvo parts and pricing since Ive owned a BMW.

A water pump on an X3 from 2007 is about $350 -

[850 LPT]

I have the very same thing happening with my 05 V70. The car takes so much longer to come up to temperature than my P80's. So I did replace the whole assembly with a blue box unit, but that made no difference. The car is still coming up to temp very slowly like before. No codes or anything and the car is running fine, I'm stumped.

Just be prepared that the new thermostat does not fix the problem.

As a side note and this is just a guess, but maybe Volvo wants you to replace the whole unit because it includes the temp. sensor. That would be considered preventative maintenance, and for a good reason. When the sensor fails, it wreaks havoc.

Dirk

[850 LPT]

I thought you can source the thermostat separately, but Ive never complained about Volvo parts and pricing since Ive owned a BMW.

A water pump on an X3 from 2007 is about $350 -

Steve, how does your 05 V70 behave? Coming up to temp normally?

Just curious.

[abscate]

The ProParts Sweden one on FCP is $37 and has two good reviews

(Dons asbestos suit)

Steve, how does your 05 V70 behave? Coming up to temp normally?

Just curious.

About 3-4 minutes to operating temp, even in the 10F weather we have been having. Ive lost that car to SWMBO this winter while I cure BMW woes.

[vtl]

If the car heats up fine but the needle does not want to center, it may be a problem with DIM. One of problems wife's now sold 02 V70 DIM had.

[JRL]

It has probably not failed.
Mine too takes much longer to fully warm up ACCORDING TO THE GAUGE, but these gauges are programmed differently, model to model.
In a new V60 loaner the gauge is fully in the middle in 3 blocks from my house yet the heater still blows cold.
In our P80 it takes about 3 or so miles. On my 2007, it takes nearly 15 minutes in the VERY COLD weather the entire Northeast and Mid Atlantic states is having right now.

As long as it eventually reaches the middle of the gauge AND STAYS THERE, it's fine.
If it starts to go back down at speed, then, yes, it is bad.

[vtl]

P2 centers coolant temperature needle when it reaches about 165F. It starts to blow slightly warm air when the temp is passed 100F.

[vtl]

VERY COLD weather the entire Northeast and Mid Atlantic states is having right now.

Friends in a less mild climate experience some weird electronic glitches with their P2 cars when the temperature drops below -40F Apparently, at this temp ambient temperature sensor reaches the limit, while IAT sensor handles 14 degrees more (well, less.. down to -54F), so the car detects discrepancy between sensor readings and starts the engine cooling fan to be safe.