2001 C70 VVT Big Oil Leak ?

[cuhfs]

MIJ, I understand and agree with the seals and O-ring. The biggie is the VVT hub. IF that is the root of the problem that's $300 (blue box - cheapest I can find). Thinking possibly... may be the in and out movement of the VVT causing the leak (worn out VVT hub). Not complaining... glad to do it IF that's the problem. Seems like I have 2 choices: 1.) replace the Cam seal, and o-ring on old hub, OR cam seal and replace also with a new VVT hub which has new o-ring in it. It's unfortunate that it seam diagnosis of this leak is almost impossible without having to potentially redo job a second time... unless I replace everything.

[cn90]

I will repeat what I said above (see the photos posted by jordank in the link).
I assume you have about 200K miles...

- Bad O-ring (Black O-ring): INTERNAL leak, oil is not chanelled properly and leaks INTERNALLY back into the engine ---> VVT not working as designed, i.e., does not advance the cam when asked to.

- Bad Cam Seal (Orange Color), EXTERNAL leak: you will see it on the inside of timing cover, garage floor etc.

- VVT Unit: after some 180K or so, it usually develops play in addition to the O-ring problem.
See the video below, if yours has that much play, the Timing Belt will "walk" inward and outward when engine is running.
By that time, the only solution is a new VVT, at $275...it is not a bad price b/c it will give you another 180K of service.

[cuhfs]

Got it. Thanks. Just ordered a new VVT at 170K miles as it appears to have play. Ordered thru FCP about $300

[bmdubya1198]

Glad to hear. With a new hub and a new cam seal, you should be in good shape. I agree with MIJ, you're already this far, might as well do everything if you're willing to replace the hub. If your hub has a lot of play in it, that's definitely a problem.

[cuhfs]

Here is a rookie move I recently did. Sharing it to maybe save some others (if anyone else is this dumb (doubt it)) from similar error. I could not tell where it was leaking from. I had this huge front oil leak near timing belt, read the many various posts and found a common source for leak is the VVT Hub and front cam Exhaust seal. Exhaust side was most wet with oil too. Replaced both and still had the leak. When done, I stuck my index finger in the hole of the intake gear and found that seal was loose (blown out) intake seal. So I spent a-lot of $$$ for a Volvo exhaust VVT and did not need it. Spent time doing the work... Well the only positive is the car has 160K miles so I can kinda see it as preventative maintenance and a learning experience. Now onto the intake cam seal and PVC.

[cn90]

If your 2001 C70 INTAKE sprocket is not a VVT, then:

1. Use Volvo or Corteco seal (rmeuropean dot com has Corteco for $8).

2. The trick on how to remove and install seal is below.
I used a PVC Plumbing adapter cut down to appropriate length, see the update from 23 May 2015:


viewtopic.php?t=53722

[cuhfs]

Understood. Thank you!

[rspi]

The VVT hub should have clockwise play, not much in and out play. I wouldn't recommend replacing them unless you have a VVT/Timing error code.

[bmdubya1198]

The VVT hub should have clockwise play, not much in and out play. I wouldn't recommend replacing them unless you have a VVT/Timing error code.

Or a bad noise coming from the hub. I have experienced an internal failure of the VVT hub. It sounded like the spring broke.

[jrsamples]

I had a monster leak on a 2002 V40 that I just purchased. I bought it thinking it was just a cam seal that let go. I just completed seal and o-ring replacements on the entire right side of the engine. It ended up being the little plunger in the VVT hub that was the source. The o-ring came apart in pieces when trying to remove it.

You have to remove the VVT hub ring gear to get to it. The VVT hub has a mild/soft version of a reverse Torx head screw that is difficult to remove. Some sites out there suggest using a six point 11/32 socket or vise grips. The screw heads are very hard. The 11/32 socket did not work at all. I ended up rounding the jaws on my vice grip pliers when trying to grasp the head. In the end, I was able to grab the washer with the vice grip jaws and loosen the fastener. One of the screws had to be severed using a thin cutting wheel. I found my local ACE hardware had 10mm hex, flange head screws that had the same OD as the washer.

I could not find the plunger or "hub to cam" O-rings locally or any auto parts store so I bought Viton 75 durometer versions on line.

I agree that you need to lock the exhaust cam if repairing the VVT hub. There is absolutely no way to time it without one. There is no way you can use a hub locking tool that engages the cog teeth if you are replacing seals. I have seen some other sites that make a claim that you can but it makes no sense. Agree that you can use it when replacing the timing belt only.

I made a cam locking tool that has an off center slot just like the commercial versions. I made an arm and drilled two holes for dowel pins. I made a link that bolted through the engine lift ring. (Keep in mind that the longest M7 bolt seems to be 60 mm - I had to shorten my hub to make it usable!) This was good enough for messing with the exhaust cam only. The intake cam can be timed when matching timing marks with the cover. However, any little amount of force on pulley such as installing the belt will instantly send the cam rotating counter clockwise about 10 degrees until the cam lobes find a more stable position. I put a 3/8 breaker bar with a 10 mm socket on the intake came hub and lashed it to the power steering hose using tape. This held the cam position to the timing mark until I had the belt all the way around. OK if you are just replacing the VVT seal or O-ring.

Once I assessed the situation and repaired the VVT hub seals, I thought I should get the intake and crank seals replaced too. Most of the work is taking everything apart, cleaning it up and then getting ready for the repair. It takes about 45 minutes of extra time to replace the other seals - replace them all! My single cam locking tool was not going to cut it. I ended up making my own double cam locking tool. I do not see any possibility of replacing both cam seals unless you lock both cams.

I used 0000 steel wool to clean all of the sealing contact surfaces of the cam, crank and oil pump. This removed a small amount of surface rust and galvanic salt oxidation of the oil pump perimeter. I wiped, then used carb cleaner to clean the debris, wiped again and then re-oiled the pump.

I was fortunate to have two dental hygiene tools that worked great for o-ring removal (small hook) and crank seal (thin with softened edges) to help with installation. I suggest the crank seal get installed after the oil pump housing has been reinstalled. This will allow you to angle the seal on the crank and finesse it around the seal surface.

Don't forget to turn the engine a full two rotations to make sure the timing belt aligns and finds a stable tension. Check the belt tension and timing afterwards. Once you run the engine for a 30 seconds to one minute - double check the belt tension again. I found that mine loosened a bit more and needed to be retensioned.

Now that the car is back together, I do have a small residue coming off the timing side and it appears to be coming from the VVT hub. I placed a piece of white card stock sheet behind the engine and another one on top while the engine was running and the timing belt covers were not installed. This may be just some residual oil that is coming from a previously soaked hub. I made several rotations of the card stock to see how it changed with respect to time and RPM. It seemed to get better once it was running for a while. I will drive it later this week and see how it goes. I will share any issues I encounter.