G13 vs G11 coolant?

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 30 Jan 2017, 16:59

Any cons to upgrading to G13 coolant other than the need to make sure it flushes completely and making sure it is mixed 50/50?

Post by **Clemens** » 31 Jan 2017, 13:36

Which benefit are you hoping to see? I read so many different opinions on that topic that I decided to stay with what was in the car.

AKJeeper · Post by **AKJeeper** » 01 Feb 2017, 15:30

I am also wondering what benefits you're hoping to get out of using G13? Do you have other vehicles that use G13?

I went ahead and stuck with the recommendation of using G11 (blue) coolant, also known as Zerex G48. BMW/MINI also uses this same coolant. I bought genuine Volvo coolant, which has a slightly greener hue than the G11/G48 variant...but it's the same stuff.

G13 is used mostly in the Skoda/VW/Audi world. It is a OAT coolant (similar to Dex Cool) and not compatible with HOAT coolants (Zerex G05/G48, Pentosin G11).

Post by **abscate** » 01 Feb 2017, 16:00

This thread reminds me to change my 1999 coolant from Dex to G11 - Im eliminating all things orange from my life

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 01 Feb 2017, 18:13

Not looking for a benefit. I can source a gallon of the G13 locally and relatively cheaply.

Was just making sure I wasn't going to cause future issues. Obviously there would be a complete drain and fill involved. I just wanted to make sure no one had a "don't do that, you'll potentially cause this, this and this issue" from prior experience.

I used G12 previously on a VW and noticed it was able to self-seal very small leaks - an added bonus. I would expect the same performance as the G12 but perhaps with better corrosion resistance. Figure if I'm going to start restoring this sucker to stage 0, why not do it right?

AKJeeper · Post by **AKJeeper** » 01 Feb 2017, 18:32

I don't think there will be any detrimental effect to your cooling system or heating system if you completely flush the old coolant out before filling it up with G13 coolant. This is probably the most important thing you need to make sure and get right. Mixing G13 with G11 will have detrimental effects (aka: sludge).

The G13 coolant is free of nitrites and phosphates. It has some silicates (as does Zerex G05/G48, and Pentosin G11). G13 has a similar pH range (7.5-9.5). The only big difference aside from color is the fact that G13 is a OAT (organic acid technology) coolant, and the G11 is a HOAT (hybrid organic acid technology) coolant. I'm not sure how G13 compares to G11 for corrosion, cavitation/erosion, foaming, etc, because I have not been able to find any tests or specs that could be directly compared to one another.

I've noticed the self-sealing properties of G12 and G13 on VW products, but come to think about it - I had the same thing happen with G11 on my Volvo when the expansion tank hose started leaking.

I personally don't think you'll have any problems using G13 when you do a Stage 0 on your car...but then again, there may be some other additives in the G11 coolant that aren't present in the G13 (or vice versa). It's really your call. For me, the choice to go with G11/G48 was simple - I've got other vehicles that use that coolant...so that's one less type of coolant I have to keep around.

Post by **erikv11** » 01 Feb 2017, 20:38

FWIW, Volvo recommends HOAT for the P80 cars. I use Zerex G-05.

AKJeeper · Post by **AKJeeper** » 01 Feb 2017, 20:49

erikv11 wrote:FWIW, Volvo recommends HOAT for the P80 cars. I use Zerex G-05.

Yup, not too much difference between Zerex G05 and G48. If you look at the tech specs, they are very similar. G05 is yellow, and G48 is blue. Both are HOAT. The G48 does slightly better with the ASTM D2809 Pump Cavitation Extended Test (aka: Aluminum Water Pump Tests).

If I didn't already have other vehicles calling for G48, I'd be using G05 in my P80 Volvo.