98 v70 right drive axle + wheel bearing replace

[98v70dad]

I was thinking about the right drive axle plus wheel bear replacement that I'm doing either this weekend or next and have wondered that if I take the wheel bearing off after I've removed the caliper, rotor, etc. IF I can just slip the axle outward enough to get it out without partially removing the control arm and control rods in the suspension?

I think it would be a matter of clearances, but it seems that it might work. Has anyone done this? It seems like it would make the job easier as long as both were being replaced anyhow.... That said, it might make getting the wheel bearing bolts off a lot harder.

Comments?

[erikv11]

I haven't tried, but I don't think it is possible to access the hub bolts without first removing the axle from the hub. Plus unless you have recently popped the axle free of the hub, it may require some bashing to free up the splines.

All you need to do is drop the control arm at the subframe, two bolts and a couple whacks with a big hammer. Don't need to touch any other suspension parts (tie rod end, sway bar link, etc.). You're talking about a difference of two bolts then you have wide open access to the bearing bolts.

[cn90]

1+,

NOT enough clearance, been there done that.
You need to d/c the control arm, and my preference is on the subframe side (info in that DIY axle thread).

[kahl]

Agree with what CN and Erika have stated. After removal of brake caliper there your choice is one of three joints to remove.
1. Four bolts on the control arm thru the frame
2. Remove ball joint bolt at the bottom and pop out ball joint
3. Remove the two bolts at the strut and spindle which the car will probably need an alignment

When one of these three points are disconnected the axle can be removed. When I do the bearing replacement I disconnect the two bolts at the strut spindal. This is because I then reconnect the strut to the spindal to immobilize the control arm while torquing the bearing bolts it keeps the control arm from flopping around. This job is really quick and easy.

[abscate]

When I tried to knock the axle shaft in on the left bearing hub, I broke the CV age on my OEM Volvo driveshaft.



You also want to loosen the 4 Torx bearing bolts before you remove the spindle for leverage - they are really tight and rusted in place. A squirt of PB Blaster one week before job, each night, START NOW!

If you need new bearing bolts PM me quickly - I know I have spares. They are also single use.
Ball joint nut/bolt - single use
Spindle to strut bolts ?????

[skloon]

You have to remove the axle first- I would remove the ball joint at the spindle as well as the tie rod end so you can access the torx bolts that hold the bearing- clean the heads off and spray with some sort of penetrating fluid - then reattach the ball joint so you have the spindle held because those bolts will be tight-dont be afraid to heat them up as you are chucking out the bearing anyways

[scot850]

I removed the whole stub axle assembly so I could mount it in my bench vice. Gave lots more access for hammers/heat penetrating fluid application excetera.

Gook Luck!

Neil.

[erikv11]

I removed the whole stub axle assembly so I could mount it in my bench vice. Gave lots more access for hammers/heat penetrating fluid application etcetera. ...

Ah yes, the salt-laden good life up north.

[98v70dad]

Thanks folks. I won't try that then.

I have removed the control arms at the subframe several times. The bolts on the control arm to subframe connection are only about 2 or 3 months old. My plans changed for the weekend since all the parts I ordered (new wheel bearing bolts) haven't arrived. I'll start with the PB Blaster tomorrow.

[erikv11]

I have dropped the control arms so many times, and never replaced those mounting bolts.