98 V70 Cardone front calipers - review

Post by **98v70dad** » 22 Apr 2017, 16:10

I purchased the cardone rebuilt ultra calipers for about the $32 per corner (Rock Auto) - hard to beat that price. I was quoted 30 per corner locally for just a used part. Here are my thoughts on the units I received.

The ultras are powder coated which is nice - no rusting. The paint is a bit thick but for brake calipers that's really no big issue. They are a semi gloss silver color and they look nice.

I planned to replace the slides, the slide bushings, the seals and the dust seal with ATE parts. Unfortunately I tore one of the ATE dust seals due to lack of experience so I had to use what came with the Cardone rebuilts. In my opinion, the seals and dust seals that came installed in the units seemed to feel and look like the ATE parts I bought - at least on the surface they are similar quality. They may not last as long - time will tell.

The slide bushings that came on the cardone rebuilds were flimsy and felt cheap. The caps didn't want to stay installed. So, I replaced them with the ATE parts I had for a significant improvement.

The installed slides looked like low quality parts. The plating was rough and sketchy looking. The slides on one side were allen style and the other side used torx style. I replaced both sides with the OE slide hardware I had on hand. Replacing the slides was also a significant improvement.

The rebuilts came with a what looks like a new stainless steel piston. Its a nice looking part.

The new springs were inconsistent. One side was so loose it was super easy to install. The other side was so tight I had a problem getting it on. A pair of lineman's pliers and some effort got both sides to behave. So, I ended up using the new springs since the old ones were probably at least 10 years old - maybe nearly 20. The new springs appear to be cad plated.

I decided to trust that the bleed screws would be adequate. While they were acceptable - one side ended up with rounded shoulders on the nut portion. I have pretty good quality tools and this honestly irritated me quite a bit since I was careful with them. My nearly 20 year old bleed screws came off the cores I'm sending back with no rounding even though they were practically welded in place. Well, I probably wont need to mess with the rounded bleed screw for 3 or 4 years but, still, they saved a few pennies and left me with a future problem.

Would I buy them again? absolutely at the $32 price - IF I could do the upgrades. They're ok without the upgrades but much better with them. Next time I'd know how to replace the dust seal without tearing it so I wouldn't have to wonder how long the no names cardone uses will last - the fact that they seemed like decent quality is reassuring. I don't regret replacing the slides or the slide bushings and I wish I had replaced the bleed screws. Live and learn, right?

Oh - and a surprise from Cardone was in the box. Your ability to return the cores is time limited -a fact that would be nice to know when you order the part. Mine sat in the garage for weeks because I've had other more pressing projects. Now I'm going to have to scramble to get them in on time. I can still make it but it annoys me that I wasn't told this up front so I could plan for it.

Post by **jreed** » 23 Apr 2017, 05:37

Thanks for writing up this review! I wanted to add that I bought some rebuilt "Wearever" calipers from Advance Auto Parts about two and a half years ago. These were original Volvo/ATE branded calipers that were rebuilt for Advance Auto Parts.
These calipers had cheap non-stainless steel slides and leaky bleed screws. I removed the cheap slides and transferred the original stainless slides to the rebuilt caliper. I bought genuine ATE bleed screws to replace the cheap leaky bleed screws. So far otherwise the calipers have been working OK with no problems noted yet. The rebuilt calipers were about $40/each.
The next time I'm going to look for a caliper rebuilder who uses genuine ATE parts the first time.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 23 Apr 2017, 07:10

I've seen more than one vehicle drag the brakes because the rubber brake hose was bad in the front - and it tends to be intermittent at first. If you're able $, replace those while at it.

Post by **98v70dad** » 23 Apr 2017, 08:11

wizechatmgr wrote: ↑23 Apr 2017, 07:10 I've seen more than one vehicle drag the brakes because the rubber brake hose was bad in the front - and it tends to be intermittent at first. If you're able $, replace those while at it.

Yes, I agree. I did that about a year ago because they were badly cracked. Small world I used to live in the Albany area back in the late 70's. SNOW and COLD - especially during those years.

Post by **cn90** » 23 Apr 2017, 08:27

One thing about Brake Caliper and CV Axle, if (big "if") people routine do the maintenance no matter what, these parts will easily last some 300K. Examples:

1. Brake Calipers: whenever the hose is cracked (usually around 12y/120K miles or so, it is time to overhaul the brake system as I wrote in the DIY in forum (Brake hydraulic overhaul):
- All rubber brake hoses
- New seals/boots for 4 calipers.

Most of the damage is from torn boot, causing rusty pistons. So if you routinely do this preventive maintenance, then you virtually never need to buy rebuilt calipers.

2. CV Axle: ditto. Around 10-12y/100K miles or so, the boot starts to crack.
If you do this (replacing the CV rubber boot + re-grease the joint) on a preventive basis every 100K, not allowing dirt to enter the CV joint, then the CV joint will easily last 300K.

But, very few people do these things on a preventive basis...

Post by **98v70dad** » 23 Apr 2017, 08:55

cn90 wrote: ↑23 Apr 2017, 08:27 One thing about Brake Caliper and CV Axle, if (big "if") people routine do the maintenance no matter what, these parts will easily last some 300K. Examples:

1. Brake Calipers: whenever the hose is cracked (usually around 12y/120K miles or so, it is time to overhaul the brake system as I wrote in the DIY in forum (Brake hydraulic overhaul):
- All rubber brake hoses
- New seals/boots for 4 calipers.

Most of the damage is from torn boot, causing rusty pistons. So if you routinely do this preventive maintenance, then you virtually never need to buy rebuilt calipers.

2. CV Axle: ditto. Around 10-12y/100K miles or so, the boot starts to crack.
If you do this (replacing the CV rubber boot + re-grease the joint) on a preventive basis every 100K, not allowing dirt to enter the CV joint, then the CV joint will easily last 300K.

But, very few people do these things on a preventive basis...

I totally agree. I got this car when it was about 11 years old. It had been neglected but not more than most cars in the US. People who think they are taking good care of their cars are actually just getting what breaks repaired and also doing routine oil changes. Almost NOBODY does preventative maintenance.

I don't know how many times I've been told by otherwise smart people that I ought to get rid of this car because "its a money pit" and it always needs something. I tell them a well maintained machine always needs something and that's why its so inexpensive to operate it. Nobody gets it.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 23 Apr 2017, 16:15

Reactive "maintenance" never works out well... It always costs more to do something on an unscheduled basis.

Post by **98v70dad** » 24 Apr 2017, 13:24

I decided to keep the cores. Too much trouble to return them for too little money and they're OE originals. Worst case if I never use them is selling them on ebay (or here). I will always be sorry I gave up the OE drive axles for aftermarket remans.

My wife thinks I'm a hoarder because every time I replace a part I strip the usable items off it and save them. Some of this saved stuff has come in handy

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 29 May 2017, 14:11

I just bought these, they look nice, BUT the calipers are VERY loose on the
slide pins. The amount of motion allowed is huge, both are the same.
I don't ever remember calipers being this loose and am going to check
the guide pin diameter. I'll use the original brackets if that is the problem.
Is there a bushing that might be missing?

Anyone else notice this?

Post by **cn90** » 29 May 2017, 14:21

I gave up on Cardone a long time ago.
The best approach is to find OEM caliper at junk yard or used on ebay.
The only thing you care is the piston, just make sure the piston is shinny and not corroded.
Then buy the FTE rebuild kit (seal + boot) at rmeuropean dot com and rebuild the caliper yourself (I posted info in forum in the DIY hydraulic overhaul).

I think rmeuropean dot com also sells the bushing etc. (But the junak yard caliper should come with bushing).