Any tip PCV on a T6

[dwmcqueen]

I have a T6 with about 180k and a fresh enhanced rebuilt transmission.

Next job is a few other baseline moves, including PCV service

Is the job (besides parts) similar to a 2.5 (as there are many how-to's for that model)? Any special tips from someone who has done the job?

[Jrsimp78]

Hi , I'm not familiar with the T5 but have done my t6. It's quite awkward to say the least. The actual one way valve (allows induction vacuum to pull in blow by gasses when no boost and closes when boost pressure is higher than blow-by, the blow by is then drawn into the induction tract of the right hand ( as you look from the front) turbo. ( This is why they is usually oil in the right hand boost pipe)). is located on the bottom side ( left as you look at the engine ) is very difficult to access. It can be accessed from below using long extensions with universal joints.( From memory, you will defo need to remove the under tray and I think also the front skid plate/guard) It's even more difficult to re-fit as you have to fit copper washers either side of the banjo that the valve goes through.(I used grease to hold in place). It is easier to do it if you remove the intake manifold but even then , not that easy. ( It may be easier to remove the steering pump though I didn't try this.
Also it's likely the you will break the narrow pipe that goes from the banjo to the rubber elbow on top of the catch can. Even if you don't break it I would recommend that you replace , ideally with something more robust than the original. They are very brittle.

You can see this pipe broken on the link https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=volvo ... M:&spf=541 ( Not mine , just a google )

Good luck

[dwmcqueen]

Thank you. Best to just buy the FCP kit?

[traudesa]

Hey stranger

I did this on mine and it was an adventure to say the least. The first challenge is getting the intake manifold off. The top bolts are all very accessible, but the two in the middle on the bottom are challenging to get to. I ended up having to buy a ratcheting 10mm with a flex head just for this and eventually got them backed off enough. The leftmost on the bottom can be accessed with a combination of extensions; a 1/4" socket set works best there. The intake duct will also need to be detached. You should be able to loosen the worm drive clamp with a 7mm socket. The oil dipstick and PCV banjo fitting are also under there and are most easily accessed from below, like Jrsimp78 was talking about. Getting them back in is incredibly frustrating but I managed from the top with a lost of wrist contortions.

While I'm thinking of it, the fuel rail has a relief valve on one side. Just push down on the center pin with a rag over it to relieve any leftover pressure. Also, put a few drops of transmission fluid or engine oil at the base of the injectors before pulling them out. It'll make pulling it out a bit easier and will spare the o-rings from getting shredded.

Once the intake is off the PCV box will be sitting right there and you'll wipe your brow and smile thinking the worst of it is over. Make no mistake, it isn't. I want to say there's three bolts holding it to the block, and two of them are plainly visible. The last is on the left and has a tunnel in the accessory bracket made for accessing it (earlier S80s apparently didn't!), but you'll need to remove/move the alternator to get a socket in there. In order to move the alternator, you'll need to move the power steering pump. You'll also need to loosen the bottom two bolts on the A/C compressor and remove the top two to remove the alternator.

Lastly, you'll need to remove the silver pipe. I bought a rebuild kit for it which basically just entailed swapping new hoses onto it. The pipe has 3 smaller pipes in it: one for the PCV gases, and two for coolant: delivery and return. It's possible to remove this pipe without touching the air box and/or fuse box (I did it my first time), but you'll save yourself some busted knuckles and swearing if you move them out of the way. The PCV hose goes into the turbo line, one of the coolant lines bends back and goes into the head via a banjo fitting, and the other coolant line bends around the PCV inlet on the turbo line, and back down to another water pipe. It's a little complicated to explain; just be ready for a number of difficult to get to hoses fastened by pinch clamps.

In hindsight, it probably isn't absolutely necessary to do any work on the pipe other than replacing the hoses near the PCV box, but removing it gave me a chance to freshen the hoses on the other end and get the crud cleaned out of the PCV portion of it.

Overall the procedure shouldn't be much different than the 5-cylinder other than the notes above. I would plan on a weekend to do this the first time to be safe. I used this PCV kit from FCP as well as that pipe rebuild kit I found on eBay and had everything I needed. The eBay kit was made by URO parts which is a company most people don't have a high opinion of, but I was willing to give it a spin versus dishing out the much bigger bucks for a new pipe. I would have some spare clamps on hand to be safe, and make sure you have a pinch clamp tool ready if you're planning on using them at all (both kits I bought included them).

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... c90t6pcvk1
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Crankcas ... 1929132057
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 0-30731004

Could you do me a huge favor and take a picture of the silver pipe as it bends around the block to head towards the turbo? I have a feeling there's supposed to be a bracket holding it to the block there, but I can't tell. I found some crumbled bits of plastic in that area that I'm guessing was it at one time, but it's hard to tell.

Hope that helps! Post back if you have any trouble and let us know how it goes.

[dwmcqueen]

Yes, very helpful. I will take a picture.

[dwmcqueen]

Instead of the URO kit, can I used normal replacemENT tubing from the local auto parts store?

[traudesa]

Conceivably, though all of the hoses are formed and some of the turns are pretty drastic, so it'll likely result in kinks unless you give it enough extra slack.

[oragex]

I have read that URO rubber components are of poor quality and don't last. Google up about it.
There seems to be a one way valve in the larger hose that gets clogged and can't be cleaned. Recommended to replace all parts with new ones.
You will need a new intake manifold gasket and perhaps a throttle body gasket
The lower port into the engine block must be checked by blowing air and listening for bubbling sound from the oil in the oil pan. If there's no bubbling, you may try your luck by blowing pressurized air into the hole: you may be lucky and free it this way - remove the dipstick and the oil fill cap when doing this.

While there, good idea to replace the thermostat

[traudesa]

I had heard that a little while ago (too late, go figure) too about URO hoses; I'll have to keep an eye on them and maybe replace the whole thing at some point. Is the check valve in the PCV portion of the metal tube? I blew some water through it when I had it out and it flowed right through. It didn't look like there were any obstructions or anything inside.

Good call on the pressurized air. The lower port is where the oil from the trap drains back down into the oil pan, right? Any concern that the blown out chunks could clog the pickup tube?

The thermostat on the T6 is between the camshaft gears on the T6, so that'd be something to do when you do the timing belt.

[dwmcqueen]

Any of these help?