PVC/PTC/Oil leak - Volvo nosedive drama

helmbelly · Post by **helmbelly** » 03 May 2017, 17:27

Introducing my car- a 2001 v70XC with 156K miles. Has run great since I got her at 130K. 300 days ago (8000 miles) I had the wrong filter so I changed oil only Mobil 1, 5/30. About 20 days ago I changed the oil again (Only a 5000 mile interval to mollify my guilty conscience) with Mobil One 10/30 and an Autozone filter. The old filter looked crudded up after 13K, but seemed servicable. 12 days ago I towed her to dealer for new ignition key programming. 10 days ago she sprung a leak: black gold, texas tea. Engine oil. Loses a quart in short trip.

It's coming from passenger side, up by the timing belt it seems- coming out like pasta water under a collander.

I changed out PVC meticulously. I'm no mechanic but make a good driveway socket monkey. Surprised to find PVC ports only mildly plugged at the two crankcase vents, upper about 30%, lower was maybe 20%. cleaned them and vacuumed. I broke down every fitting, banjo bolt and hose, blew them out with air, reamed with wire, sprayed with cleaner and tested. The flame trap itself was virtually clean except for some soot around the lips of the hose ports. I plugged assorted holes in the trap with corks and blew air to determine every port was entirely unobstructed. Same with all hoses. Sent a tube down into the oil pan from lower port and blew into a tube got an easy gurgling sound- unobstructed. Overall the engine intake ports look great, clean as a whistle inside. The car drives great.

The PVC seemed recently serviced (by prior owner) - hoses pliable and in good shape. I did not replace the big L pipe going to the upper banjo because the flame trap was not dirty and the hose coming into flame trap from the PTC /upper banjo was clean. So I prettied up the injectors, cleaned up the ETM but when I had it buttoned up - identical oil leak, still filled the blue glove at filler cap.

Next I inspected upper banjo- clean. removed turbo intake and inspected PTC nipple- clean. I gave it a bath to be safe and reinstalled with a sliver of hope- NOPE, identical oil leak, still filled the blue glove at filler cap. Car is inoperable. It's my only car and I'm unemployed right now - money is quite tight.

My plan now is to Seafoam and then change oil/filter. Considering running a Mobil One 0-30 thinking thinner oil may be less cumbersome on system.

Should I temporarily bypass the PVC system to diagnose if it is the PVC system causing the pressure?

Thoughts, ideas, screeds and scoldings greatly appreciated.

Post by **jonesg** » 03 May 2017, 18:00

You did a lot of work but did you replace the leaky seals yet?
So cam seals are leaking.?

Ahh I just noticed you say the glove is still inflating, yeh thats odd.

helmbelly · Post by **helmbelly** » 03 May 2017, 18:20

I just identified a missing connection on my throttle intake tube- the large pipe that connects under the ETM.
This pipe has two recepticals for electrical connectors. The connectors themselves are on a common strand - the smaller one branches out about 12inches from the first.
The larger connector, is toward the passenger side. That one is all set on my car.

A couple inches further towards the driver side is another connector angled at 45 degrees. I just realized there are actually TWO parts. The 45 degree thing is an interim part that sits over a registration pin sticking up and a half inch hole opening directly inside the throttle pipe.

I've been puzzling for two days how it's supposed to accept the smaller connector and now I see why I was so flipping LOST. I'm missing the part that pops over the registration pin and the hole and provides an electrical port at 45 degree for a small plug.

WHAT IS THIS CONNECTOR? Could it cause positive pressure if entirely disconnected? Mine is. And I dont know for how long.

I'll get that perky little part from dealer or from a junkyard that has a 2003 V70XC. But WHAT is this thing??

Thanks !!

helmbelly · Post by **helmbelly** » 03 May 2017, 18:25

Jonesg,

It was a lot of work, my hands are coated in Bag Balm salve and are humming like tuning forks!

I have not yet tackled cam seals because I am hoping if I can kill the positive pressure the leak may abate.

helmbelly · Post by **helmbelly** » 03 May 2017, 18:43

Here is a photo of the part I'm missing on another engine. It's the connector at a 45 degree angle with the yellow wire showing. Anyone know what this is? Curious if this part is totally dissconnected - would it cause positive pressure?

: Screen Shot 2017-05-03 at 7.34.20 PM.png (859.82 KiB) Viewed 1629 times

helmbelly · Post by **helmbelly** » 03 May 2017, 18:58

Ok so that 45 degree thingo is the MAP sensor.
My connector (the part showing yellow wire) is just hanging in the air because on my pipe I just have a
hole the size of a dime venting to air. Tomorrow I'll get the adapting part that joins the "yellow connector" to the pipe. In the meanwhile I'm studying up on it.

Post by **jonesg** » 03 May 2017, 20:56

Hope one of the guru's chimes in for ya.
Its all spaghetti to my eyes.

helmbelly · Post by **helmbelly** » 04 May 2017, 14:08

Replaced MAP sensor - no decrease in blue glove test pressure. Tried running with dipstick removed to vent engine- slight decrease in blue glove "erection" but just slight. Still leaking. Am seafoaming now.

Stay tuned

helmbelly · Post by **helmbelly** » 08 May 2017, 13:34

to follow up, seafoaming is worth doing but no effect on this (obviously). The pressure was approx cut in half after I overhauled the PVC and PTC. Still positive tho.

The cam seal is where it is leaking - I'm bringing it in to an indie mechanic today for that job. I dont want to touch that- darn complex and special tools required.

Post by **abscate** » 08 May 2017, 20:26

That hole in the induction path will let unmetered air into your engine which will make it run really crappy with the MAF operational. If you unplug the MAF (engine off) then it will run ok on a lookup table based on engine rpm. It will get crappy mileage, but it won't burn up lean or be too rough to drive