Frustration level 10! Round cap blown off top of engine Topic is solved

[ThommyKent]

I thought they had told you the PVC/Evap was fine? so it was building pressure after all?

They did, evap(emissions) work is for the J hose at the charcoal canister in the back, it's cracked. As I understand it that is separate from the PCV system?

Sort of, PCV and Evap are tossed about freely as they are connected and used for venting fumes and pressures. A plugged or broken Evap cannister hose would not cause a build up of pressure to pop that plug off. But a plugged PCV system could, however the Evap system is also part of the PCV emissions system.......clear as mud.....lol. I think when the dealer comes back with a final summary the PCV system was clogged.

[Legofan]

I thought they had told you the PVC/Evap was fine? so it was building pressure after all?

They did, evap(emissions) work is for the J hose at the charcoal canister in the back, it's cracked. As I understand it that is separate from the PCV system?

Sort of, PCV and Evap are tossed about freely as they are connected and used for venting fumes and pressures. A plugged or broken Evap cannister hose would not cause a build up of pressure to pop that plug off. But a plugged PCV system could, however the Evap system is also part of the PCV emissions system.......clear as mud.....lol. I think when the dealer comes back with a final summary the PCV system was clogged.

Nothing yet from them and i usually hear from them quickly when there's a bigger issue to be repaired so we'll see. One thing that I have complained about to them is the low idle, about 600. They said there is no way for them to increase the idle, but my transmission feels differently about that. It's almost too low and it downshifts hard. When the rpm are up when stopping faster or I hold the gas it's smooth as silk. I wonder if it's related.

The loaner I have idles at just under 1000rpm, 2017 XC60 T6

[June]

They did, evap(emissions) work is for the J hose at the charcoal canister in the back, it's cracked. As I understand it that is separate from the PCV system?

Sort of, PCV and Evap are tossed about freely as they are connected and used for venting fumes and pressures. A plugged or broken Evap cannister hose would not cause a build up of pressure to pop that plug off. But a plugged PCV system could, however the Evap system is also part of the PCV emissions system.......clear as mud.....lol. I think when the dealer comes back with a final summary the PCV system was clogged.

Nothing yet from them and i usually hear from them quickly when there's a bigger issue to be repaired so we'll see. One thing that I have complained about to them is the low idle, about 600. They said there is no way for them to increase the idle, but my transmission feels differently about that. It's almost too low and it downshifts hard. When the rpm are up when stopping faster or I hold the gas it's smooth as silk. I wonder if it's related.

The loaner I have idles at just under 1000rpm, 2017 XC60 T6

My S80 T6 2004 and my sister's 2005 T6 both idle slightly below 700 rpm at times and slightly below 900 rpm other times. The odd thing is both cars idle the same when side by side. On a hot day they always bump up to the higher while almost always idle the lower 700 rpm below 80°F but not 100% about outside temperature or A/C usage. I really cannot figure out the rym or reason the computer changes from one to the other, but both T6 cars do it at the same time when started side by side. I complained last year about it and Volvo found nothing wrong. Mine started doing it after a software update quite a while back, her car was bought used last year so I have no clue if it always had two idle speeds. Personally I like the 700 better especially when in bump and grind traffic. June

[Legofan]

So the dealer found no cause for the cap coming off aside from it previously being tampered with. According to them it is installed at the factory while the head is off. Only way to reinstall it is to remove the head, crimp the cap then reinstall the head. To keep me from paying an obnoxiously large amount of labor, their solution was to install the cap inverted and crimp it from the top. Doesn't look so great, but it works.

Only wish they took a few minutes to clean the engine of all the oil. Maybe I'm just nitpicking but, they've rubbed me the wrong way more than I'm willing to accept. Off to find an indie who actually gives a crap.

[precopster]

To fit the cap you remove the Cam Cover which is a sandwich press on the cams. No need to remove the HEAD as well as the cam cover. It's technically part of the head and provides 50% of the bearing surface for the cams. There are around 46 bolts on the straight six to remove this cam cover as well as needing to remove the coil packs and CVVT/coilpack wiring as well as the cam belt. It's around 5-7 hours to refit/clean & reseal this cam cover plus any repairs on the blown out plug. Also there are six O rings that fit between the spark plug holes to replace. You then seal the two halves with anaerobic sealant while pressing it down with factory tools or very slowly by using the 46 bolts.

As I and others said some two part metal sealant and perhaps a spray of silver paint to hide it would be the most prudent. I don't think I could stand seeing it in upside down but that's just me. I guess you could fill the hollow with a black epoxy or a silicon sealant then spray it silver.

[June]

So the dealer found no cause for the cap coming off aside from it previously being tampered with. According to them it is installed at the factory while the head is off. Only way to reinstall it is to remove the head, crimp the cap then reinstall the head. To keep me from paying an obnoxiously large amount of labor, their solution was to install the cap inverted and crimp it from the top. Doesn't look so great, but it works.

Only wish they took a few minutes to clean the engine of all the oil. Maybe I'm just nitpicking but, they've rubbed me the wrong way more than I'm willing to accept. Off to find an indie who actually gives a crap.

Putting the cap on upside-down sounds like a Mickey Mouse fix to me... if my dealership service ever suggested putting something back wrong or some half measure repair I definitely would retrieve my car breathing fire! I would wonder how to trust them to fix anything correctly or not to cut corners when I am paying full boat for a service or repair. Even worse not to clean up the oil mess which could catch fire further shows neglect on their part. I would mention them in the dealership section of MVS to alert others that dealer may not be so good. June

[Legofan]

So the dealer found no cause for the cap coming off aside from it previously being tampered with. According to them it is installed at the factory while the head is off. Only way to reinstall it is to remove the head, crimp the cap then reinstall the head. To keep me from paying an obnoxiously large amount of labor, their solution was to install the cap inverted and crimp it from the top. Doesn't look so great, but it works.

Only wish they took a few minutes to clean the engine of all the oil. Maybe I'm just nitpicking but, they've rubbed me the wrong way more than I'm willing to accept. Off to find an indie who actually gives a crap.

Putting the cap on upside-down sounds like a Mickey Mouse fix to me... if my dealership service ever suggested putting something back wrong or some half measure repair I definitely would retrieve my car breathing fire! I would wonder how to trust them to fix anything correctly or not to cut corners when I am paying full boat for a service or repair. Even worse not to clean up the oil mess which could catch fire further shows neglect on their part. I would mention them in the dealership section of MVS to alert others that dealer may not be so good. June

I absolutely will not be using them again as they definitely are a mickey mouse outfit. I get treated poorly because I did not buy a 60k car, but instead bringing in a "junker".

[Legofan]

To fit the cap you remove the Cam Cover which is a sandwich press on the cams. No need to remove the HEAD as well as the cam cover. It's technically part of the head and provides 50% of the bearing surface for the cams. There are around 46 bolts on the straight six to remove this cam cover as well as needing to remove the coil packs and CVVT/coilpack wiring as well as the cam belt. It's around 5-7 hours to refit/clean & reseal this cam cover plus any repairs on the blown out plug. Also there are six O rings that fit between the spark plug holes to replace. You then seal the two halves with anaerobic sealant while pressing it down with factory tools or very slowly by using the 46 bolts.

As I and others said some two part metal sealant and perhaps a spray of silver paint to hide it would be the most prudent. I don't think I could stand seeing it in upside down but that's just me. I guess you could fill the hollow with a black epoxy or a silicon sealant then spray it silver.

They are butchers and I feel like a fool taking the car to them.

[June]

So the dealer found no cause for the cap coming off aside from it previously being tampered with. According to them it is installed at the factory while the head is off. Only way to reinstall it is to remove the head, crimp the cap then reinstall the head. To keep me from paying an obnoxiously large amount of labor, their solution was to install the cap inverted and crimp it from the top. Doesn't look so great, but it works.

Only wish they took a few minutes to clean the engine of all the oil. Maybe I'm just nitpicking but, they've rubbed me the wrong way more than I'm willing to accept. Off to find an indie who actually gives a crap.

Putting the cap on upside-down sounds like a Mickey Mouse fix to me... if my dealership service ever suggested putting something back wrong or some half measure repair I definitely would retrieve my car breathing fire! I would wonder how to trust them to fix anything correctly or not to cut corners when I am paying full boat for a service or repair. Even worse not to clean up the oil mess which could catch fire further shows neglect on their part. I would mention them in the dealership section of MVS to alert others that dealer may not be so good. June

I absolutely will not be using them again as they definitely are a mickey mouse outfit. I get treated poorly because I did not buy a 60k car, but instead bringing in a "junker".

My dealer services my 2004 S80 T6 and have always treated me right. Last year when the LF break line went bad out of town locking up that wheel I got the idiot treatment from a south Florida dealer who I would not recommend to anyone. It suprised me that all Volvo Service is not the same high quality. Definitely find a better repair outlet. June

[mrbrian200]

Installing/crimping the cap inverted to save a $Ton in labor seems reasonable. But leaving an oil slick under the hood, especially on the exhaust side, is a potential fire hazard/safety concern.

It's one thing if a customer has a fluid leak and drives away, opting out of a repair, after you've warned them of the potential hazard. It's another thing completely to fix an issue which was effectively a massive oil leak which made a mess, then hand the vehicle back to the owner without cleaning up the mess caused by the issue you repaired.

This was fresh oil. 10 minutes with a low pressure sprayer/leaf blower & air compressor hose would have done it. Ok maybe 15m, on these you have to remove the cover over the coil packs to clear any water/oil that has puddled under there.

VCC if they see this, and are smart, will find a way to correct procedures at this dealer. I would question the competency of their service managers 'management status' with regard to adequately maintaining basic fire safety protocols within the department relating to customer' vehicle repairs. That should have never got out the door before the oil mess was cleaned up. An effective SM would have techs drilled to not allow something like that out the door or risk disciplinary action.