2006 S60 2.5T Not Starting

[s_watts]

I am having troubles diagnosing my car today. I took it on a drive came home, turned it off, now it is not starting.

All the electronics are coming on fine, I checked the battery its 12.4 V when I did a battery test. When I turn the key I get a single click, nothing else. No starting or cranking. Can I assume that this is the starter? Does a starter fail all at once, or are there signs leading up to it.

No indications that it is an immobilizer system. I tried to wiggle the signal cable on the starter, could not pull it off to clean it. Ive attached a picture of of the black tubing in the way of giving me access to the cables, can anyone give some insight how to remove that.

Any help is appreciated. My volvo has always reliable for me. Ironically, This happened two hours after I agreed to move to a new city and start a new job in one weeks time.

[mrbrian200]

Does a starter fail all at once, or are there signs leading up to it.

In my experience, usually, yes when a starter fails usually it works fine with no sign of trouble then all at once never again.
That doesn't mean your starter has actually failed, but if you're well over 100k on the odo it can be entirely possible.
A corroded or loose electrical connections/bad relay can act like this too all at once.

[s_watts]

Is there a way I can readily check the relay?

Also, I checked the fuse for the starter and it was ok.

[jonesg]

Use a jumper wire to energize the smaller wire at the starter, I had to jump my old volvo with a screwdriver many times.

[s_watts]

How so use a jumper wire too the starter? That does not sound very safe and what am I bypassing in that process?

[mrbrian200]

Using a 14 gauge or larger insulated wire with an alligator clip on one end, connect the alligator clip to the terminal that smaller signal wire connects to (the one you tried to pull off but couldn't). Then touch the other end of the jumper wire to battery positive. Assuming the starter is ok, with the ignition off the starter will crank but not start. I'm not sure this will work to actually start the vehicle as the ignition timing needs to be retarded during cranking, the ECU may or may not do this unless a helper is turning the key to the start position as you touch the jumper to (+). This jumper bypasses the relay/fuse and the wiring in between the ecu to the solenoid and directly activates the solenoid which is merely a higher current relay (switch very high current to the starter motor) integrated into to the starter. There's technically two relays between the ECU and the starter motor. The ECU cannot provide enough current to directly actuate the solenoid (which itself draws several amps), so there's an intermediary relay and fuse that you're bypassing with this.

Hopefully that helped -or- confused you just enough to realize calling in an experienced mechanic may be necessary. I noted you're starting a new job and probably not terribly flush. If I were in Indy I might offer to take a look but I'm in Chicago all this week. I suspect you more than likely need a new or rebuilt starter anyway as you wiggled the little wire and it still doesn't go. I don't think it's terribly common for the relay to fail.

[s_watts]

That makes a lot of sense, I understand it a lot better now.

I will get some wire and try that tomorrow. If the motor kicks does that mean it is a relay issue?
Had a couple of other possibles pointed out to me. Could it be the ignition switch? Could it be the voltage regulator?

I have a starter on the way, hopefully it is as simple as replacing that. If you can clarify one thing for me, when I take the starter off, do I need to remove the air flow tubing? See picture below.

http://imgur.com/a/AmBAt

[oragex]

If there's a click, the battery or the battery cables don't have enough power. People often get confused when they see all electrics light up. Try first jump start from a running engine with both cables attached directly to the battery terminals. The starter rarely if ever fails on this car.

[jonesg]

That makes a lot of sense, I understand it a lot better now.

I will get some wire and try that tomorrow. If the motor kicks does that mean it is a relay issue?
Had a couple of other possibles pointed out to me. Could it be the ignition switch? Could it be the voltage regulator?

I have a starter on the way, hopefully it is as simple as replacing that. If you can clarify one thing for me, when I take the starter off, do I need to remove the air flow tubing? See picture below.

http://imgur.com/a/AmBAt

Sometimes its a lot easier to get the car on jackstands and work from below. Looks like you have no bellypan anyway.

If the jumper wire works, starter cranks, then you are bypassing the ignition switch, so the switch would be something to look at,
I installed a momentary starter button in my old volvo from battery to starter solenoid with an inline fuse. Turn ignition on, press the buttom.

[mrbrian200]

After glancing at the diagram I might clarify the ignition switch is wired to the CEM not the ECU, the relay is controlled also by the CEM, there is no direct connection between the ignition switch to the starter relay. Someone with a VIDA should be able to see if the ignition switch is or isn't working when you turn the key to the start position. I'm not sure if a generic OBDII tool will read this parameter or not. If you're going to work from above: Yes the charge air pipe has to come off, you'll also have more room/ a little easier if you remove the air filter box.
Absolutely do not forget to disconnect the battery back in the trunk: the main battery cables to the starter are not fused, an accidental dead short to chassis can damage the wiring and/or take out your battery.

Just to make sure you did try jump starting first just to rule that out before embarking on starter diagnosis yes? As I recall on my sisters 03 xc90 that still had the original battery when she bought it, the DIM will display a battery low warning when the battery dips below 10 or 11 volts.