Volvo 850 How to add oil to new a/c compressor

[Roger_850T]

Just a note on the clutch gap... There's a failure mode where the gap gets bigger, and eventually too wide for the clutch to pull in reliably. It gets worse with heat, so it fails on the hottest day when you need it most. This is where the infamous "bread clip" fix comes in, where people use plastic bread bag clips to shim the clutch so it works again. Anyway, if it's not too late to set it, I would tend to set it towards the tighter end of the range, not the middle, if possible, to buy yourself a few more years on it before you have to fix / adjust it again. (If it's too late to do conveniently, then probably not a big deal, but just a thought.)

Roger

[JimBee]

There are several plastic springlock tools that look very similar, and a scissors type metal one. Different folks tend to have their favorites. What I found works best is the plastic one with the flange.

The tool shown in this link has worked best for me, though it will still take some effort:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-37000-Cond ... nnect+tool

Problem #1, as well acknowledged on these threads, is the garter spring inside the round "cage" that holds it in place gets rusty and difficult to expand.

Problem #2 is that the female tube (end of the dryer gooseneck) that locks into the garter spring needs to be able to rotate a little, while pulling on the gooseneck to separate it from the springlock. But the dryer canister is trapped in a tight space so you can't rotate it to work it loose.

Problem #3 is the factory formed "monster" hose that connects the dryer to the back of the compressor. The large nut that holds that hose to the dryer nipple can be extremely hard to loosen—and with the dryer installed you can't get a wrench on it anyway. Plus the monster hose is very stiff so while connected, it too prevents moving the dryer canister to work the springlock connector apart. So the monster hose needs to come out attached to the dryer, both together.

Two procedures worked for me and I will do them both the next time (I have another 850 that also needs a dryer).

PB Blaster in the springlock cage is a must. Treat it the day before and then while you're working on it.

1. Chop (I did it indelicately) the gooseneck that goes into the springlock connector. You can use a Dremel or similar tool. Cut it close to the canister, so you won't get metal bits near the line it connects into. No need to worry about getting bits in the canister since you're going to toss it.

2. Disconnect the monster hose from the back of the compressor. Those screws can be tough to break loose. They are NOT Torx head screws. They are 6mm (Allen) hex head screws and you'll want a good quality hex bit socket drive for that task. Remove the fan and shroud to get some room. You really do not want to remove the alternator, I know I wouldn't want to if I didn't have to. Remove it. That might take you 20 to 30 minutes. While you're removing stuff, get the power steering pump out of the way. No need to disconnect it, just unbolt it, make sure the cap is tight and lay it up on the intake manifold. I also removed the box around the ECU's, which enables better access to power steering pump and alternator bolts, as well as a more open work space for the dryer.

You've spent maybe an hour removing stuff. NOW you have some room to work and the project will go a lot easier.

NOTE: Your radiator is now vulnerable. Cut a piece of corrugated cardboard a 1/4" wider than the radiator so you have to flex it a bit to get the edges to stay in the crimp lip on the sides. I get empty bike boxes from the local bike store.

3. To loosen the screw that holds the monster hose to the back of the compressor, use a breaker bar with maybe a foot of extensions and your good quality 6mm hex bit. Tap the bit into the screw head so it's securely set. The Harbor Freight hex bit (set) worked well for me. Break loose that screw. Leave it in place though until you've got the gooseneck cut off and have removed the flange end of the gooseneck from the springlock cage. You can also leave the gooseneck on the male part of that line to keep out debris once you get it separated from the springlock.

REMOVING the flange end from the springlock cage. The white springlock plastic release tool (second to largest in the picture) that I have found useful is very tough, flexible plastic, so it won't break. Look-alike plastic tools that I've tried are fragile. I think NAPA has the one I'm using.

You're going to apply some brute force to that plastic so it needs to be resilient.

Assuming you've shot some PB Blaster into the cage the day before and then again as you work on it, now place the white tool around the female end of the gooseneck that goes into the springlock. I couldn't apply enough squeezing force with my fingers to get the tool flanges to set far enough into the cage to expand the spring, so I used an 8" Channel lock pliers, one jaw on the back of the cage, the other on the ring of the plastic tool that stands vertically off the pipe. Then kind of work your way around to the sides of the release tool, rotating it occasionally. Normally, you would just place your thumb behind the cage and spread two fingers around the pipe to squeeze the tool into the cage. Save your fingers. The pliers will do the job. You'll feel it when the tool "sets" into the cage. Make sure the tool flange looks evenly set into the cage. The spring is now open.
Now with the spring open, you can rotate the cut off gooseneck while pulling it out of the springlock cage. It might still be stubborn, but persevere, it will come free.

My dryer (Four Seasons from Rock Auto) came with new o-rings and a new garter spring. Install the new spring if you can. I discussed o-rings with a Volvo dealership mechanic. He said he would reuse them if they had no nicks, cuts or gouges. Are the Volvo o-rings that were factory installed better quality than the Chinese ones that come with the new dryer? Who knows?

Now have a piece of tape ready to put over the opening on your compressor when you remove the flange of the monster hose. Don't do this in a dusty area when there is a breeze.

TRY NOT TO Spill any oil from the old dryer canister. Instead, you'll want to empty it carefully into a container that enables you to fairly accurately measure it. Then, before refitting the monster hose to your new dryer, put that same amount of fresh PAG 46 ( I assume it's 46, but check the table in the link above to be sure of the weight to use) back into the new dryer canister before putting everything back together.

I wouldn't try to remove the band around the old dryer while it's still in place in the engine bay. Instead remove the whole bracket with one screw at the top. It's kind of hard to get to, but you can get a small wrench or socket on it. I used a small wire brush to clean rust off the threads and some PB Blaster on it and it came out quite easily. With the whole dryer and bracket assembly out, you can set up the new dryer in the bracket, loosely cinched so you can move things around for alignment.

NOTE: Understand the orientation of the monster hose to the gooseneck of the dryer before loosening the fitting on the old dryer. It will need to go together the same way for the hose to align with the port on the compressor. Maybe scribe a line onto the top of your new dryer with a Sharpie marker to indicate alignment.
On the bench, you can remove the monster hose from the dryer canister and using a new o-ring if you have one, with a little PAG oil on it, you can thread the hose fitting onto the new dryer. Don't tighten it yet.
Remember to replace the right amount of PAG oil before you connect the monster hose.

Reinstalling everything. It's practically impossible to get a large wrench on the monster hose fitting to tighten it enough when the dryer is installed. The best way to deal with that is line everything up, slipping the gooseneck onto the male line, but don't push it into the springlock cage yet. Check monster hose alignment, tighten it firmly outside of the engine bay, put everything back in place for a final alignment check. Finish tightening the monster hose fitting and put everything back together.

This job can be very challenging if you try to do it without having enough space to work like I described. Or the right springlock release tool. Or enough patience; it will take some.

This could be edited better but I'll post it for now and come back to it with some pictures and probably a few more details.

[JimBee]

@Roger.Good point. Abscate mentioned that, too. After that discussion, I found a puller tool that wouldn't harm the pulley bearing so I decided to readjust it to .3mm. It was easy enough to do. Without that puller tool I don't think I would have tried it though, probably instead would have just put in some zip ties.