1998 V70 no acceleration under load, idles great

milliniumvolcan · Post by **milliniumvolcan** » 20 May 2017, 15:31

Ok.... I have been visiting this site for some time now reading and reading but now i must ask because i am at a loss......

I have a 1998 V70 non turbo base model. ... i bought it from a guy for $600 because my girlfriend needed something more gas economical. I checked the compression and it was 175-180 on all cylinders...... and the ONLY code it threw at the time was the 410 SAS issue..... but the major concern that i had was when the car was driven. It starts and idles like a top..... its when you start driving is the issue. After start up it idles good and then you press the gas and its pretty nice up to about 10-25 mph... then when you try to give it more gas.... it bogs down.... and will not generate any power... it seems to rev but just wont go..... i let off the gas and it will shift into gear.... but it will not pick up pace.... so i figured with the bogging down it was getting the wrong fuel/air mixture.. So before putting alot of money into the car i did the little diode bypass trick to kill the 410 fault code.... but again.. nothing...

steps i have taken.......

i have replaced the timing belt and the timing is good with new water pump and belt tensioner, and new serpentine belt.

I checked the MAF and it idled great as normal.... i pulled the connector to the MAF and nothing continued to idle... then plugged back in and engine died
, i read that shows the MAF is bad so i replaced it....

however with the new MAF installed it STILL DOES THE SAME THING......

also changed the throttle positioning sensor....

I replaced the fuel filter and pulled all the fuel injectors hooked them up to cleaner and had a jumper lead activate them outside the car and flushed them with cleaner to ensure a good fan shape...... some were a little less desirable... reinstalled.. and still... same issue

pulled the fuel schrader valve and it has pressure.... have not pulled a reading on exact pressure yet....

i looked at the vacuum line diagram on the hood.... and there were a couple of lines in the wrong place so i put them according to the picture... and it ran WORSE.. lol... so i put it back the way it was....

so here i am... and have... NO IDEA what the deal is or what to do.....

I don't know what the solenoid valve switch does or how to test it.. or even if that is the issue.... is it the purge valve canistor?...i don't want to keep throwing money at a $600 car..... if the compression was awful.... i wouldn't have bothered.. but internally its good.... especially at a 250k miles...

there are no codes being thrown so i have no idea where to turn to next.... is it transmission? and if so how do i know?... i don't think its the transmission because when i mash the gas.. it bogs... I don't want to go an spend $250 on a catalytic converter if thats not the case.... if its an 02 sensor it should throw a code but... nope... nothing.. so i am at a loss now.
Help

Post by **abscate** » 20 May 2017, 16:52

These cars will kill your bank if you troubleshoot them with the Mossberg method - shotgunning parts.

The good news is the parts are high quality and seldom fail. The bad news is the parts are high quality and cost a lot of money.

Pull the spark plugs, cap, rotor and inspect - or post pictures here (you might have to send them to me until you have 10 posts0 so we can sort out the ignition side.

There is no way around measuring fuel pressure except trying to jump the fuel relay with a wire - see VRD.

Thats not Wilson NY is it? I share a boat up there in Tuscorara YC

readallthebooks · Post by **readallthebooks** » 20 May 2017, 19:02

backpressure? plugged cat?

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 20 May 2017, 23:45

Have you tried activating the throttle cable by hand? Is it functioning properly?

milliniumvolcan · Post by **milliniumvolcan** » 21 May 2017, 17:40

The throttle cable works freely.... i can rev it while under the hood and engine responds..... what does scare me is i saw a video on line concerning the pcv blockage.... with the glove method ...or if you see steam coming from the oil dipstick tube... and it does have steam coming from the oil diptstick tube....
of course the guy before me broke off the oil dip stick so it was just open.... with the dip stick just sitting in it... but steam was coming out.... will a clogged pcv bog it down like that?... and if so is there a way to by pass it so that it can be tested to see if that is THE problem or just something that can be changed later.... like wise with the cat...... there's gotta be a way to test it to see if THAT is the case before i put more money into to learn.. nope that ain't the one.. lol

the cap, rotor and wires are all new.... plugs look good.. no fouling..... what do you mean jumper for the fuel relay....?

no its wilson nc..... i been through ny once... not my cup o tea... lol

milliniumvolcan · Post by **milliniumvolcan** » 21 May 2017, 18:41

also..... what about valve solenoid?.. is there a way to test that... and could that be the issue?

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 21 May 2017, 22:45

I always like to look at the simple thing. I'm glad your throttle cable is good.

I don't think, from what I've read, that a clogged PCV will create the kinds of issues you are describing. It does sound, however, like you definitely have a clogged PCV. So you will have to leave your dipstick out to relieve pressure on the system so you don't bust any seals (rear main, crank shaft, etc.). Have you tried the glove test? Turn engine on and remove the oil cap and put a glove over where the oil cap goes, if it inflates, you have a bad PCV... There are posts on here about modifying the dipstick in order to relieve pressure in your engine. There's no way to bypass the PCV, you're going to have to plan that job.

The only way to check the CAT is to measure the temperature before and after the cat with some sort of infared thermometer. Or to check the 02 trim live data. You might want to have someone give the car gas while you have your hand by the muffler tailpipe. When given gas, you should feel a substantial push of exhaust go through the system. If not, well, that could point to a pretty significant clog.

Eric the Car Guy describes the process in this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VZ5K8n5jj0

Good luck getting it squared away.

Post by **abscate** » 22 May 2017, 04:45

Plugged cats, plugged fuel filters, bad ECUs

All of these are as rare as asteroid strikes. Run from people who suggest these, especially if they don't offer a way to verify it

milliniumvolcan · Post by **milliniumvolcan** » 22 May 2017, 08:45

I did have a thought ..... Can your speed sensor go bad an make it limp like that ? When I get off work today I'm going to check fuel pressure with gauge then do jumper relay and also pull speed sensor and drive it to see if the sensor is problem .... I'm just at a loss it's starving for something because when I get on the road and mash the gas it just bogs..... So either air or fuel .... I cleaned all injectors this weekend .... Activated them an blew them out good with cleaner had a couple of injectors that were questionable but after reinstall an test no change ..... So I have a new filter clean injectors ..... I cleaned the throttle body and I'm pretty sure PVC issue but would the PVC bog it down? I put it on diagnostic test but no code reader.... It did say fuel fault.... Buuuuut didn't elaborate I assumed it was injectors but hey that's what happen when u assume... So now I'm looking at relay and pump

Reys · Post by **Reys** » 22 May 2017, 11:01

Take out the fuel pump and check for the 5-6 inch rubber line connecting the lower to upper fuel pickup. Had this issue on many 850s, clamps let loose and hoses slide with vibration. Car will idle great but wont pickup enough fuel under heavy load.