Code 323 in A1 Socket, help!

[warmblood58]

I pulled this code from the A1 socket today, which cites "lock up slips or is not engaged" and yes, I have flashing arrow. When I purchased car, trans fluid was very dirty so not wishing to tempt the gods, I opted for draining pan and adding that amount back with clean ATF 1,000 miles ago. I was then going to do this again several more times at 1,000 mile intervals to gradually replace fluid in a slower manner. Just read a post on code 323 in which a power flush seemed to do the trick so perhaps this is a better option? This is for a '95 T-5r. Car has 210,00 miles and runs great. I checked trans fluid when it was quite hot using Robert's method and noted that it read above hot upper mark by 1/16-1/4 inches! I assumed when I drained pan and added back equivalent that correct amount was already in the car -wrong? Could this contribute to code 323? A different question regarding cooling system- do the green pressure caps fail very often in the reservoir tanks? Thanks All!

Cheers,

James

[Ozark Lee]

Easy stuff first, the green caps rarely fail but part of that depends on the source. If it is an OEM green cap they are pretty bullet proof but there is no patent on the blue/green color so you never know.

The lockup code is usually a lockup solenoid failure (SL). Getting the pan off to get to them is a pain but it can be done. I think the SL solenoid is in the same area as the S1 and S2 solenoids.

viewtopic.php?t=47779

...Lee

[warmblood58]

Thanks Lee! Question: My theory is ATF was really dirty (and I mean dirty!) when I purchased car. I drained out sump and added that much back clean ATF without verifying correct fill level. As I now know that trans is overfilled, is it possible that debris was pushed into solenoid (as a result of high volume) thus creating a sticking/sticky situation? Do I need to be concerned if I do a proper flush about losing all trans function(from loss of existing suspended friction material) on what I believe to be the original trans with 210,00 on it. I had read elsewhere on this site that several members had success with the 323 code by flushing. Nervously, I think I will do a flush tomorrow using the method of draining the sump in many cycles (using about 12 qts overall) vs pumping out the ATF by disconnecting trans cooler line. Has anyone on this site ever lost complete trans function on a high mileage trans by flushing? Thanks!

[scot850]

Like anything in life it is possible, but especially with the drain and fill and flush method written in MVS it is un-likely to happen. If an issue occurs it is usually because it was already there. The issues come when repair/lube shops use their power flush equipment which it highly likely to cause loosening of crud that will get into the valve bodies.

The only issue is spend the $$'s on trans fluid that may not help. The best case scenario is clean fluid will help and draining dirty old fluid out can't cause any further harm.

As to the over fill, I'm no expert on trans, but I view any form of overfilling is a recipe for pressure build up and causing old seals to fail. The amount of overfill is not a big issue, but what I suggest is on the next drain and fill, fill it to the cold line, run the engine and cycle the gearshift slowly through the gears a few times and then let the car come to operating temp and then test the fluid level. Better having a little low than high as it is easier to add a little at a time to get to max.

I wish you luck!

Neil.

[warmblood58]

Thanks Neil. By the way, this am,I drained out 2 cups as a place to start (as trans was overfilled). I took the car on a 30 minute drive to get trans fluid nice and hot and checked hot setting . . . still over the top hot level! I drove up on one ramp (driver side) and drained about 4.4 qts out later. My understanding is draining the trans results in about 3.5 qts but yet I drained 4.4 qts! If you add in the two cups that I drained off quickly earlier this would suggest 5 qts removed today - that means a surplus of 1.5 qts was in my system! Lesson I have learned is that is important to get the trans fluid nice and hot to get an accurate reading -apparently, PO had overfilled trans. I am going to add 3.5 qts tomorrow and take it for another drive to see what result I get. Will try to put a couple of hundred miles on it and again drain one more time (which will be third drain and replace). This ATF pretty brown even after the original 3.5 I added over a year ago. Would more fluid drain out by elevating driver side wheel only?

[warmblood58]

Did second flush and moved car slowly through the gears, all engaging, still need to drive 100 or so miles before next flush. I think the previous fluid flush must have loosened up a lot of crud . . . . darker this time than I would have expected.