DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Front Bilstein TC Strut Tips/Tricks Topic is solved

[PeteB]

I can't find that very low cost spring compressor from Harbor Freight. I think that
it is discontinued and there are several negative reviews about it on the web. I do
realize that you used it as a back up.
I've used a pair that looked exactly like this one from Home Depot and they worked well:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-S ... 120587-_-N

Harbor Freight has something that looks very similar but I'm not sure if I trust them:
https://www.harborfreight.com/automotiv ... 63262.html

[erikv11]

I would say the HD and HF tools you linked to are basically the same thing, they could easily be made in the same factory then packaged differently for HD and HF. If you don't want to use the "death sticks" then the next step up in safety is this one https://www.harborfreight.com/single-ac ... 43753.html; if you're still uncomfortable the smart thing would be to take it to the shop.

[bmdubya1198]

I have the Maddox spring compressors from Harbor Freight and I've used them 3 times so far, and they're great. Good quality, and they work as expected. I've used them on our E39 (which was annoying as it has the M suspension, VERY small springs) and mine and my cousin's P80s.

[PeteB]

I bought the Harbor Freight single action job and it seems to work well. We have 2
other cars that will need struts in the next few years and it is worth playing it safe.
Having trouble getting the cross nut off, put some Kroil on it, that will probably do it.

[PeteB]

Got the X nut off. I see that it is #4 in the diagram in the OP of this thread, is there a torque value?
Just make it as tight as possible, then torque the nut #1 to 70Nm?
Can't get a torque wrench on it anyway since the allen to hold the shaft has to go through the middle - correct?

[bmdubya1198]

Got the X nut off. I see that it is #4 in the diagram in the OP of this thread, is there a torque value?
Just make it as tight as possible, then torque the nut #1 to 70Nm?
Can't get a torque wrench on it anyway since the allen to hold the shaft has to go through the middle - correct?

You can't really torque the cross nut, I don't know of any sockets that would actually fit it. Just get it as tight as you can.
As for the top nut, yes, 70 Nm.

[oragex]

Make sure to torque both nuts - cross & top one while the spring is compressed. As above, the cross nut is a 'backup' nut, plus it won't torque that much since usually it seats against rubber on the spring seat.

[PeteB]

There is a steel insert inside the spring seat so here I'm seeing the cross nut up against steel.
The two nuts are locking against each other so I think it should be fine if I just get it as
tight as possible.

[erikv11]

There is a steel insert inside the spring seat so here I'm seeing the cross nut up against steel.
The two nuts are locking against each other so I think it should be fine if I just get it as
tight as possible.

Yep: metal on metal, if (like most of us) you're not shelling out for an X-nut socket then just "really tight" is more than adequate.

[PeteB]

Turns out that I WAS able to use a torque wrench on the top bolt. I used this
O2 sensor socket that allows the torque wrench to be put in offset:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/aut ... 10051135-P

Then put the allen wrench in through the top with vice grips and a cheater to hold it.
The O2 socket began to give way at about 45 ft lbs, so I just gave it another 15 deg or
so with the correct box wrench.
I did not want to risk damaging the seat so I used the allen wrench in both cases.