Shaking...a lot !

[oragex]

Thanks a lot SuperHerman.
Sorry I did not reply earlier - somehow my notifications settings are off

I'll check about the level of my angle gear, and will also take pictures of my struts bushing seats.

I read that replacing the bushings themselves is a PITA - so I may well invest in the control arms completely. Prices go by a factor of >5x though, from $224 for the whole kit https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/51169/ ... oCbDfw_wcB) to >$300 for just one (volvoparts.com).

Changing the arms does not sound out of my reach - though I read somewhere that the AWD requires undoing all the engine mounts and lifting the engine - could somebody could comment on that??

I found a tutorial for the engine mounts. I could afford to replace the two that i can see (top and bottom/front) - but according to this tutorial there are "big ones" behind the engine and on the side and this looks way to involved for me (i.e.. needs special bar to lift/hold the engine).

I saw what bearing/hubs go form $60 to $250 a piece depending on brand. Are the cheap ones that bad?? At 205k miles I don''t expect to put so many years of use anyway:(


Last - as can be seen on the video, , the links to the steering rack can be moved by hand and have a clunky sound too. Is it something that needs replaced?

Thanks all for your help

I won't touch to 'Professional Parts Sweden'. Look for Lemforder for control arms or even Moog. That's about the only brands that will last over 1 year. Mainly look for Lemforder and Sachs. Meyle HD for the end links only seems a good choice. The original ball joints may still be good. I won't jump and replace several parts at once or at least not replace them with cheap aftermarket parts.

[marmotteNZ]

Thanks.
Moog seems fairly priced indeed.
Any opinion on Dorman?
Again, I don;t expect to keep this cars for 10 years more either, so I need "good", not "OEM" LOL


How can I know if the ball joints are good?

I read here and there conflicting info about the nuts/bolts/washer....buy or reuse?

[SuperHerman]

Site sponsor FCPEuro has lifetime replacement on parts they sell. Their Meyle HD arms look reasonably priced. Have you checked them out?

Ball joints will have play when you put force on them. Usually the boot is ripped and the elements have caused issues. If they look good and test good under force they should be okay. As I said before you can try to relube them.

Do a search on testing ball joints - the basics are the same regardless of brand or vehicle. Watching a few videos will get you up to speed.

[marmotteNZ]

Oragex seemed to advise Meyle HD "only for the end links"? So if Moog is cheaper anyway ??
Ball joints - if I don;t replace them, I would need to pull them away "cleanly" which I believe requires a special tool doesn't it?

[marmotteNZ]

Also another couple of questions :

Do I need a special tool to replace the inner tie rods?
By the look of it, https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... ner-274353 there's plenty of flat grip for an adjustable spanner.
At the same time I'm not sure about Meyle for those :http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread ... e-tie-rods


Any recommendations for the outer rods? FCPEuro has the Karlyn at $10 and the Volvo at more than $100!!!

[SuperHerman]

I have had good luck with Meyle HD parts as well as Moog. The lifetime warranty at FCPEuro is a good add on regardless what you buy.

I recall I used a pipe wrench for the inner tie rods, but Autozone "free" rents a tool that may do just fine. Nothing magic about the Volvo suspension - standard tools work - special tools make life easier.

[marmotteNZ]

Dear all.

Thx for all your advice.

The other day I ended up taking off the wheels (both sides) and caliper (one side I couldn't undo the top bolt) and undoing the outer tie rod (one side only - same thing for one side - could not take of the nut .

1. I wanted to "feel" the bearings without the calipers, but with the axle connecte to the hub anyway...it is hard to feel the bearing by itself

2. Tie rods feel unsure on the wheel side. I cannot feel any play though on the inside. See What do you think? They make noise when "spinned" side to side and touch the end of their normal course, but the rubber looks good, and I cannot feel any play. On a couple youtube videos (with US trucks, not volvo SUV), the author say that the joint of the inner should be firm. Mine are very easy to move in their normal movement, but I don't feel grittiness or play at all. I chose not to order them as yet---maybe I shoudl have?

3. I have order arms, sway bar links and ball joints, all noog, from Amazon. The free shipment fro FCP was too slow and the fast shipment too expensive. I did not order new bolts as they did not have them from amazon (but ordered the 2 M14 nuts). I'll do the 2 torque mounbts of the engine too. The plan is then to go for alignementm 2 new tires and wheel balance check on all 4 and see what the feedback is...

I read that bolt seized by red threadlocker can be undone with heat....but how much heat ?? I have a small propane torch http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/produc ... 7_1000.jpg - is it suitable? How long should I hold it to the bolt ??
Or shoudl I use PB jelly instead??

[Roger_850T]

Another source for dealer parts is http://www.volvopartswebstore.com. They are a dealer in Chicago, but they have great prices, and the parts diagrams online, too, so you can look at what you are ordering. (I just looked and found your control arms for $170 each.) Not cheap, but I have had too many fail, the Volvo ones are the only ones I have luck with them lasting. For me, the Volvo ones seem to go about 80,000 miles, and the Myele HD seem to go about 12,000 miles.

[SuperHerman]

Bearings - Do you have both wheels lifted? I thought you could spin them - if both lifted. Take a screw driver - put it in the rotor slots and try to turn it.

Tie Rods - No big deal here as you shouldn't have to pull prior work if you change them - although it most likely will require an alignment. Make sure your shop allows you to bring it back under the same bill if you have to change the tie rods. If they are bad they most likely will stop and tell you.

Control Arms - I have not changed the bolts either as it requires moving the subframe - most people just reuse them. That one lower engine mount which you had a photo of needs to be addressed. You can always try a hard rubber tube as a bushing.

Heat - you can use a hot air gun or MAP/Propane torch. Be careful of any rubber or plastic nearby - I use AL Foil wrapped around it loosely as a heat shield. Put some PB Blaster or similar on and give it a go. Some give it a rap with a hammer and reapply PB Blaster. Some try tightening first and then loosening it. Some use straight heat. If the part is being replaced you can let it glow provided you don't melt anything else.

What part are you concerned about having thread locker? Yes heat will help - it doesn't need to glow. Get it hot and then try turning it - if it doesn't go get it hotter. Just beware of high heat will cause metal fatigue and may melt something else. Thread locker nuts can be released by heat - regardless of color. Red has a higher temp resistance than Blue as I understand it.

Put on what you bought and see what else needs changing. You will need an alignment if you care about your tires. Just make sure the shop lets you come back, or get a three year warranty which lets you come back many times.

[FLXC90]

First, Control arm bushings... car will dart around when you apply brakes and again when you release them, and may clunk on acceleration.
Flutter in the front wheels that gets worst around 50mph and sounds like a hammering, plus shaking of front end-Bad tie rods, your diagnosis moves when you grab at 3 and 9 but not 6-12 confirms this
Control arms shouldn't affect alignment, they should reestablish it. Control arm bolts can be reused.
Tie rod ends definitely affect alignment, do them before the shop. Strut bushings make a big clunk on speed bumps and other small impacts. But that can wait a little.
You truck is AWD, need to keep tires all the same size, get the alignment fixed.
Motor mounts just make everything else get worse faster. You can fix them yourself.