How Best To Clean Engine Compartment? Topic is solved

[sleddriver]

Whenever I need to remove something from the engine, I usually clean it before reinstalling it. I also wipe down most of the plastic & hoses from time-to-time using 303, Meguiars vinyl cleaner, vinylx, etc. However the top of the engine needs some attention and I'm hesitant to use any water spray or power washer to do this.

Suggestions? For those who do this, please advise...

[wizechatmgr]

If the engine is cool, I've been known to hit it with degreaser and a ~10 minutes later a pressure washer. I try to make sure the water and degreaser don't get in the alternator.

If you have a rotor and wires, be careful not to get them wet. While water "shouldn't" effect them, it occasionally does.

[cn90]

I avoid power washer b/c the jet can shoot some 500 psi of water pressure.

For the 850, S70 engine: water can get underneath the spark plug boots ---> misfire.

- I have removed the cosmetic cover for good (it is sitting up on the garage shelf). This way I can make sure water does not get near the sprak plug boots.
- With engine cold or warm, spray some degreaser, wait a few minutes. I usually get a long wood stick (like a very long chopstick) and scrape the gunk away; then rinse it with a gentle stream of water.
- If you don't want water to go everywhere, then use a garden sprayer filled with water and clean it that way. It is more gentle.
- I usually clean the engine before going somewhere, this way the hot engine can dry all the water used to clean it.

[sleddriver]

Degreaser + Hot water rinse from a 1.5ga pump up sprayer sounds good. Easy to control the water that way. I've cleaned the undercarriage/engine/oil pan last year to clean up the oil mess from the leaking front camshaft seals. The top isn't nearly that oily/dirty.

I too removed the 'cosmetic SP cover' decades ago...made no sense...why cover the top of a hot motor with plastic?? Just nuts....especially here in Tx.

[bmdubya1198]

I haven't cleaned my Volvo's engine in a while, but I usually spray down everything with some degreaser, scrub it down with a soft brush, and use my electric pressure washer (probably 1,500-ish PSI, likely less, not sure) on everything. Just don't focus the pressure washer on any area too long.
Of course, cover up sensitive things like the alternator and distributor cap.

[belskee]

I never touch my engines with water, water + air = rust, I use degreaser then oil with a brush

[Sommerfeldt]

I never touch my engines with water, water + air = rust, I use degreaser then oil with a brush

Technically, water=rust. Air has little to do with it. Could you explain what you mean by "oil with a brush"?

- S

[belskee]

Rust is iron oxide, it's oxygen that makes it oxidize, without oxygen metal won't rust, it rusts in water due to the oxygen in the water so air or oxygen to be specific has everything to do with rust.

Sorry what I ment was I use a brush to work the solvent and oil into the metal

[Sommerfeldt]

Rust consists of hydrated iron(III) oxides Fe2O3·nH2O and iron(III) oxide-hydroxide (FeO(OH), Fe(OH)3). So you need water - you don't need air. Iron standing in dry air won't rust - iron standing in air containing moisture (water) will rust. Iron submerged in water (with no air) will also rust.

In any case - how do you get the solvent and oil off if you don't use water?

- S

[BeachWagon]

I've always given a cold engine a generous bath of "LA's TOTALLY AWESOME", as found at the dollar store. Let it soak for around 20 mins and blast it off with a water hose jet nozzle. It removes a lot of aluminum oxide as well as all the grease and grime. Watch any printed surfaces that you may care about, it does remove some types of ink. That said, the engine will be near spotless with minimal effort and cost.