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How Best To Clean Engine Compartment? Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
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1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » How to Clean the Engine Compartment of Your Volvo
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belskee
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Re: How Best To Clean Engine Compartment?

Post by belskee »

It would be better than jet washing alone yes, but nowhere in this post has anyone mentioned doing this, just using and degreaser and water, if jet washing water would get everywhere, you would need to dry everything and get some sort of oil base back on where ever the water has got to.

I still don't see why anyone would need water to clean metal but yes if it's covered back in some sort of oil after this will protect it.

Personally I use engine oil as it's thicker and protects it longer but granted it doesn't have the nice shine

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mrbrian200
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Post by mrbrian200 »

I do clean the engine bay, but no high pressure/power washer: with the garden hose nozzle and mild soap, then dry it out good with a leaf blower and the air compressor hose. Degreaser only if I've had a leak make a mess to clean up. On the 5cyl water likes to make puddles underneath the coil/plug cover so I take that cover off and blow the water out of there before starting it.

My thinking is that all of that stuff is designed to operate in the presence of moisture, just not submerged. I'd rather have an issue present itself in the driveway rather than on the highway during a heavy downpour 100 miles from home.

I consider road salt to do more corrosion damage if you leave it under there rather than wash it down once in awhile. It gets wet under there more often than many people realize, particularly if you park outside in cool/rainy conditions.

belskee
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Post by belskee »

This is true, why cars have the plastic under the arches and why some better car manufactures have plastic splash guards under the engine, add salts and it gets a whole lot worse

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sleddriver
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Post by sleddriver »

Should have watched Robert's video before posting here! As usual, he covered it.

I used a diluted degreaser (LPS) on a cold engine. Let it sit about 20min., then began scrubbing with a brush. Rinsed with HOT water from a pump up sprayer. Reapplied on tough areas and rinsed again. Top of the motor was the tough part with all the small indentations to clean old oil residue from. I blew off excess water with electric leaf blower. Pulled plug boots and found some water in there so I blew it out with compressed air. Wiped it all down with matte-finish armour all I had on hand. It cleaned up real nice when done.

Engine started fine. No worries.
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scot850
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Post by scot850 »

I cheat and ask the dealer to do a clean for me if the car is in for work. As I have been a customer for so long they don't charge me for it, same with washing the car after work completed (that they do for any customer).

They do a basic clean, but if there is any heavy oil issues or grease, I resort to cleaning that area when working on it. I use WD-40 for that, and old tooth brush, cloths and lots of elbow grease.

Neil.
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bmdubya1198
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Post by bmdubya1198 »

scot850 wrote: 26 Jun 2017, 16:54 I cheat and ask the dealer to do a clean for me if the car is in for work. As I have been a customer for so long they don't charge me for it, same with washing the car after work completed (that they do for any customer).

They do a basic clean, but if there is any heavy oil issues or grease, I resort to cleaning that area when working on it. I use WD-40 for that, and old tooth brush, cloths and lots of elbow grease.

Neil.
WD-40 is actually a really good cleaner for metal. Like we've been talking about (trying not to start another argument :lol: ) it's not corrosive to the metal and it pulls up grease pretty well.
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