98 V70 parking brake adjustment question

[98v70dad]

Is there another place to remove a little slack from the parking brake cable other than the star adjustment at the rotor and the T50 adjustment at the hand brake?

I adjusted the star until I just got a little bit of drag after centering the shoe per instructions here and videos on youtube. Then I tightened the T50 adjustment to as tight as it will go. My hand brake goes up to within about an inch of the plastic - probably about 5 or 6 clicks. Its OK as is but a little looser than I like by about 2 clicks. I can leave it as is, but I'd rather have it a little tighter. The car is still up on jack stands because I still have to bleed the brakes so I can tweak it a little tomorrow if there is something else I can do.

[abscate]

Tighten the stars until the wheel is hard stuck. Then two clicks back. Now check the handle for play. Tighten at handle if needed.

[98v70dad]

Tighten the stars until the wheel is hard stuck. Then two clicks back. Now check the handle for play. Tighten at handle if needed.

Hard stuck with the parking brake off? Also, should I loosen up the T50 adjuster at the brake lever first?

I'll give it another try tomorrow, but I did this same thing today and two clicks back resulted in what seemed like a lot of drag to me. I guess the drag corrects itself after driving a few miles.

[scot850]

When did you last change the cables and did you use Volvo or aftermarket?

If you have read my post on using the Pro-parts cables they were too short from new, and went back to the expensive OE Volvo cables.

The cables do stretch over time.

Did yo check that the cables move freely? If not, have someone gently pull on the cable when looking at the cable at the hub and feel/watch for resistance, and then pull the cable end to see if it pulls back easily.

Do you have the cables tied back at the rear trailing arm with the plastic loops and pop-rivet?

I feel releasing 2 clicks after lock up is a little tight, I do 3 minimum, but then use the system a little and then re-tension once the system beds in.

Neil.

[abscate]

Handle is off during adjustment, correct. You want to get the shoes as close to the drum as you can, then take up the slack in the cables to get the right number of clicks on the handle to actuate brakes. If the shoes are old or haven't been kept in adjustment, they will not be the right radius to fit the drum evenly, in which case, you need new shoes.

[98v70dad]

Handle is off during adjustment, correct. You want to get the shoes as close to the drum as you can, then take up the slack in the cables to get the right number of clicks on the handle to actuate brakes. If the shoes are old or haven't been kept in adjustment, they will not be the right radius to fit the drum evenly, in which case, you need new shoes.

Thanks. Brand new shoes. Made my best guess and adjusted it this morning before you responded per your comments from yesterday. Improved the situation by a click or two....good enough for a 20 year old car. There really should be some sort of indicator on this forum to show that you're in the middle of project on your daily driver. Although they are appreciated, responses after the work is done aren't useful.

[abscate]

Glad you are not rolling anymore...

Good write up by Lee in the VRD, too

BONUS: Parking Brake Overhaul:

Parking Brake Thread by "Ozark Lee":
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... f=1&t=8187

This is the Parking Brake Part Diagram. I ordered all new hardware but in retrospect, you just need new springs (they tend to break after 12-14 years); NO need to change the retaining clips (PN 9157979 x4).
98VolvoParkingBrake.JPG
Make sure you lube all these items before install.
- The Brake Shoe Adjuster
- The Brake Cable where it enters the wheel hub
- The Expander (attached to the Brake Cable)

During assembly, pay attention to the Start Adjuster so you know which way to expand the Adjuster (Basically UPWARD to expand the Adjuster). Then adjust the Brake Shoes as usual. Do this with Parking Lever (in the cabin) released.
Tighten the Star Adjuster until you cannot turn the rotor, then loosen it about 3-4 clicks. Now you can turn the rotor, a slight drag noise is normal. Now check the Parking Brake Lever, the REAR wheels should be locked before 7 clicks. Ideally between 4-7 clicks.

Then do a few "Brake bedding" for the Parking Brake. I think it is a few stops using Parking Brake at speed of 30 mph or so.
Find an empty stretch of the road to do this "bedding" thingy!

Congrats, you just saved close to $1000 of labor charge!

[kaneelschep]

I park on quite a slope a lot. And have no p, since manual.
And to my opinion these parking brakes are not great to begin with. Braking the disc would have been a lot better.
When I got the car, one shoe had no liner. It was loose in the drum.
After replacement I adjusted them quite some times over the last 2 years,..
Last time was in februar. Exactly how abscate sais. Wich is quite fiddly to get the perfect mix between front and back.
And the handle now allready pulls too high to actually hold the car on the slope.
However I set them, I could never block the rear wheels with the parking brake.
It just brakes.. slowly..

When I was young I practically steered my old opel kadett through every corner with my parkingbrake, and only once in the 10 year i drove it, I lost a liner. Then changed to a disc brake rear axle

[abscate]

The dual disc-drum design is more complex but gives you a real backup over the moving caliper type.

Holding power is excellent with new shoes adjusted in correctly, it's not right if you can drive away normally without stalling with the brake on.