99 S70 GLT cranks but will not start Topic is solved

[scot850]

With what you have written here, it does sound like an immobiliser issue, due to the quick cut off after starting. I find these cars get like me as I am aging and can randomly get confused. Did you try re-setting the immobiliser using the driver's door lock with the key manually, locking and unlocking?

Neil.

[abscate]

I'm over my head on this one. I didn't know you could get keys cut and programmed to a VIN without the car being present on ME7

[Cricket502]

With what you have written here, it does sound like an immobiliser issue, due to the quick cut off after starting. I find these cars get like me as I am aging and can randomly get confused. Did you try re-setting the immobiliser using the driver's door lock with the key manually, locking and unlocking?

Neil.

I didn't, I'm not sure how to do that. I did lock and unlock the car several times while I was stranded at the gas station for 4 hours (thanks AAA...), but didn't read about how to reset the immobilizer.

I'm over my head on this one. I didn't know you could get keys cut and programmed to a VIN without the car being present on ME7

Just looked up the listing on FCP Euro and you might be right. The ignition lock cylinder was coded to my VIN in Sweden before shipping to me, but the listing says it comes with a blank key. I could have sworn I started the car up with the new key after installing the new lock cylinder though.

[scot850]

The reset is very simple. Put the key in the driver's door lock and turn it and lock the doors. Then turn the opposite way (once if you have single stage opening, i.e. all the door locks open in one go) or twice if the car has 2 stage locks (Driver's opens first and then 2nd turn opens the rest). Typically once should be enough, but I normally do it a couple of times to be sure. Simple as that!!

Neil.

[abscate]

Wait a minute. The lock cylinder is pure mechanical, no coding required. The key has to be cut to fit that, but the chip, I think , has to be programmed with the installed ECU (this is doublebug territory for sure)

[Ozark Lee]

To the best of my knowledge you can't buy a new key, cut from the VIN, and have the chip cloned on it out of the box unless there is some secret database that Volvo has been hiding from us for all of these years. Assuming that the key you are using worked before then it might just be the antenna ring and often you can unplug the antenna ring connector and plug it back in and it will work again. The signal from the antenna is weak and any kind of corrosion on the connector will cause it to not read the chip.

...Lee

[Cricket502]

I tried resetting the immobilizer with the lock/unlock thing, no change. The car would still crank but not start. I installed a new immobilizer, same thing. I'm working on towing it back home today so I can go back to the basics and double check everything. Fuel, spark, and compression if I find my way to autozone, but I don't think it's compression.

EDIT: Got the car and notes from the mechanic

- Spark OK
- Fuel pressure OK
- Plug not wet no fuel
- Injector noid light not lighting
- Power out in sector? OK
- Injectors getting power
- Scanner fault has anti-theft fault
- Cleared fault and reset PCM
- Disconnected cam sensor no change
- Tried cam sensor no change, reinstalled original
- Tried crank sensor no change, reinstalled original
- Possible PCM or ground from PCM to injector

[BEJinFbk]

There are a lot of people going in several different directions here,
so I'm going to bring up a couple of basics to get us on the same page.

First - Walk away from the ECU right now - It's probably fine.
Being married to the car, it's a hassle to swap and more than
likely, there's nothing wrong with it. And like a previous poster
mentioned, why open another can of worms at this point?

Let's look at the ignition switch particulars for a second.
It's a high wear item that gets used every time you drive.
There are 4 major components to consider:

The mechanical lock cylinder that has been replaced,
the electrical portion that attaches to the end of the lock cylinder,
the chipped key and the antenna ring that reads the chip.

If I'm reading all of this correctly, you made a very wise choice
and ordered the replacement cylinder with original, VIN matched
factory keying, so that all of the original keys could be retained.
That means that the chips in the keys should be what the car needs.

This does sound a lot like a classic immobilizer issue and as stated,
that's often related to a poor connection at the antenna ring connector.
Unplugging and reseating the connector a few times has been known
to wipe the contacts and clear up the problem. Quick, easy and free!

Another thing worth asking about is, how old is the contact block on
the end of the lock cylinder. Was it replaced along with the cylinder?

And one more question about the shop - Are they a reputable dealer
or indy specializing in our older P80 Volvos? Worth thinking about.
They should have been able to grab stored codes on day 1 and diagnose.

[BEJinFbk]

Just reread and saw your anti-theft fault.
IIRC, that system cuts fuel to prevent starting.
I'd ask the shop to focus on that.

[Cricket502]

New update after poking around a bit, fuse #8 (light switch, immobilizer) was blown. Put in a new fuse and it blew instantly when I put the battery back in (was charging it). So hopefully I'm getting close to a solution.
Next step is figuring out how to read a wiring diagram, and then make my way through the wiring diagrams to figure out what goes to that fuse, unless anyone else happens to know.